I had read where it was suggested that a code 100 magnet be used on code 83 track because it has stronger magnetism. The ties need to be cut in order for the magnet to fit. Has anyone installed the uncoupling magnets this way and does it improve the operation? Any other uncoupling success stories or recommendations are appreciated. Thanks.
Both magnets work quite well in their own application. It doesn't seem worth the bother. The .015 difference in height doesn't add a large amount of mass, and is there to make the installations easier.
I have the Kadee coupler height gauge that's attached to a test track that I keep near my workbench. Part of prepping all new equipment is setting the coupler height. I have the track mounted to a section of 1x4 (if you're planning on testing locomotives, you have to cut a gap in one of the rails close to the gauge to prevent shorts). Last week, I set an uncoupler (code 83 track with the appropriate uncoupler) between the rails and it matches the trip pin stand on the gauge exactly. So, it's a perfect fit it operation; no notching of ties is required. Granted, there are some locomotives with lower gear box covers on their trucks that may drag on the uncoupler, but removing a slight amount of material gives the necessary clearance.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I do have the magnet uncouplers in a couple places where using s pick type of uncoupler isn't workable. However at places where the pick is usable, I have given up on the magnets. I find I'm uncoupling when I don't want to and the magnets are unsightly. Just my experience.
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
I have code 83 and have code 100 magnets under the ties and they all work brilliantly.
Are the electro magnetic uncouplers the same size or larger?
Tim
Tim,Since I favor using magnets for hands free uncoupling I have use both types of magnets on my switching layout at the same time-I use Code 100 track since I use Peco working derailers on my industry sidings...The most important thing is to insure the coupler and coupler trip pin is at the correct height.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
NP2626 I do have the magnet uncouplers in a couple places where using s pick type of uncoupler isn't workable. However at places where the pick is usable, I have given up on the magnets. I find I'm uncoupling when I don't want to and the magnets are unsightly. Just my experience.
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrainSame here. I get unwanted uncouplings in my yard all the time. Rich
Wonder why I never had that issue? I had more problems with that in N Scale due to the slinky action of the MT coupler.
For the couplers to uncouple you need to stop over the magnet or so they say and I have prove that theory countless times over the years.
Maybe I should start a investigation on this unwanted uncoupling phenomenon since I feel left out?
Just saying..
BRAKIE richhotrain Same here. I get unwanted uncouplings in my yard all the time. Rich For the couplers to uncouple you need to stop over the magnet or so they say and I have prove that theory countless times over the years. Maybe I should start a investigation on this unwanted uncoupling phenomenon since I feel left out? Just saying..
richhotrain Same here. I get unwanted uncouplings in my yard all the time. Rich
In this case, it happens at slow speeds. The under track magnet opens the couplers and the uncoupling occurs. Not always, but enough times to be annoying.
Actually, I don't care if it never happens to others. It happens to me and that is all I care about.
richhotrainI am always amused when someone says something like, "This has never happened to me", implying that the other guy is either lying or doing something terribly wrong.
Not implying anything of the sort..
I just stated my years of experiance using between the rails magnet..
Maybe with the undertrack magnet that happens since it seems to be a tad stronger but,not with the between the rails magnets like I use and the various clubs I been a member of over the years uses.
I really enjoy the hands free and delayed uncoupling of the KD coupler and that's why I changed over to KDs way back in '68.
I've had the same problem Rich is talking about. It likely happened when I did stop the train right over the uncoupler. Remembering the uncoupler is there and to be werry of it, is my problem. I elected to get rid of almost all of my uncoupler magnets and use a pick to uncouple. Problem solved. However, I have no problem with the guys with "Countless years of experience" playing with choo-choos, keeping theirs!
Do you still have your uncouplers? If so, willing to sell?
Thanks, Tim
NP2626 I've had the same problem Rich is talking about. It likely happened when I did stop the train right over the uncoupler. Remembering the uncoupler is there and to be werry of it, is my problem. I elected to get rid of almost all of my uncoupler magnets and use a pick to uncouple. Problem solved. However, I have no problem with the guys with "Countless years of experience" playing with choo-choos, keeping theirs!
Yes, I will sell them, if your interested I would need to inventory to see how many I have left. If so interested, send me a P.M. and I will tell you what I would sell them for.
NP2626I elected to get rid of almost all of my uncoupler magnets and use a pick to uncouple. Problem solved.
The pick is a good method for sure and I would use it if I didn't like the benefits of the magnets and since I use my highly detail cars from time to time and I won't risk breaking off details while using a pick-heaven knows those cars are far more fragile then my older BB,Roundhouse,Trainman and Accurail cars..
BRAKIE NP2626 I elected to get rid of almost all of my uncoupler magnets and use a pick to uncouple. Problem solved. The pick is a good method for sure and I would use it if I didn't like the benefits of the magnets and since I use my highly detail cars from time to time and I won't risk breaking off details while using a pick-heaven knows those cars are far more fragile then my older BB,Roundhouse,Trainman and Accurail cars..
NP2626 I elected to get rid of almost all of my uncoupler magnets and use a pick to uncouple. Problem solved.
With my years of experience using picks (1.5 years) I have never broken any details off of any of my very highly detailed cars. I am very skilled at handling my wooden picks, though!
NP2626I am very skilled at handling my wooden picks, though!
Maybe I should hire you as conductor and fire that dumb conductor wanna be or maybe put him in upper management..
Breaks things, not very smart? That's upper management material!
I make ALL my magnetic uncouplers retractable. Actually they are retracted until actuated to uncouple cars. No accidental uncouplings, and very reliable uncoupling.
If you want to see, I can post pics maybe later, but for now Photobucket is up to it's usual tricks.
See if this link works...
Southgate:
Your uncouplers are excellent! Very creative engineering.
I managed to score a bunch of Kadee Electromagnetic couplers for peanuts a while ago, but if I need more uncoupling locations I will copy your design.
Thanks
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
That means the link worked for you? Hmmm. My 'puter won't open that video any way I try. Dan
Edited in...Tonight it finally worked. Thank you for the comment.
Hi guys, I've been off line a few days. I think if you open the link on the video, it takes you to that album in Photobucket. There should be enough pictures to see how the uncouplers were made. It's basically a telescoping mechanism lifting and dropping the magnet in a slot, centered under the track. The magnet runs parallel to the track , and the magnet is on it's edge, not lying flat. Make sure the magnet does drop far enough to allow the couplers to close. I'd say 5/8 inch.
On the styrene tube example, I did fill the end of the tube with epoxy with the thin piano wire inserted on it. That attaches the wire. Note the loop on the end of the wire in one photo, that goes in the epoxy. That is cemented to a flat piece of styrene, which is glued to the magnet with "Goo" contact cement.
There is a piece of index card paper glued under the ties, on top of the roadbed, to keep ballast out of the slot.
I honestly can't remember how I cut (or broke) those magnets in half, it's been so long and I did a ton of them and still using them, I'd suggest an abrasive tile cutter at this point to get a better cleaner cut. Be aware that extreme heat kills magnetism though. Or just use the magnets whole. Hope this helps, I'll check in for any questions.
Finally, Kadee couplers have long been known to behave best when mounted in Kadee draft gear boxes. And as well as good ol' #5s work, "Whiskers" work even better, especially if you can't use kadee boxes. Just my own experience there. Dan
Hi Dan
Thanks for the details.
hon30critter Hi Dan Thanks for the details. Dave
Man, you're up late!
Let me also note that the whole mechanism is mounted through a little chunk of 3/4" plywood, with a hole pre drilled to fairly loosely clear a sheet rock screw. when you mount the assembly, screw it into position but keep it just loose enouth to be able to turn it this way or that to get a free fit in the slot. Make the slot well enough longer than the magnet to avoid binding on the ends. I use a 1/2" drill to make 2 holes in the roadbed and subroadbed, and a saber saw to cut the slot between the holes. the slot itself need be only about 1/16 wider than the magnet, but I have found that even if it's wider, as long as the magnet is centered, it works fine.
On slots where I got a bit too wide, a simple shim can be made of styrene. Play around with this basic idea and when you get a setup that works for you, you'll be able to put these as far in from the edge of you layout as you want them.
Use a thick enough copper coated welding rod as a lever and rod so it doesn't have too much torsion flex in it. I used 1/16 at first, but it's too flexy and "boingy", and feels vague. 3/32 rod feels and works far better.
Dan:
Good morning!
Apparently you are up late too. I think there are a few of us who are in the same category. If I get working on something that holds my attention I frequently see the morning light on my way to bed. It ticks my wife off a bit, but ultimately she is ok with it. The really bad part is that when I do stay up all night I also sleep for most of the day. Supposedly that is not a healthy routine. It sure doesn't get much done around the house. (No lectures please folks!)
Anyhow, thanks for the additional information about using welding rod and how to form the openings for the magnets.
Southgate Hi guys, I've been off line a few days. I think if you open the link on the video, it takes you to that album in Photobucket. There should be enough pictures to see how the uncouplers were made. It's basically a telescoping mechanism lifting and dropping the magnet in a slot, centered under the track. The magnet runs parallel to the track , and the magnet is on it's edge, not lying flat. Make sure the magnet does drop far enough to allow the couplers to close. I'd say 5/8 inch. On the styrene tube example, I did fill the end of the tube with epoxy with the thin piano wire inserted on it. That attaches the wire. Note the loop on the end of the wire in one photo, that goes in the epoxy. That is cemented to a flat piece of styrene, which is glued to the magnet with "Goo" contact cement. There is a piece of index card paper glued under the ties, on top of the roadbed, to keep ballast out of the slot. I honestly can't remember how I cut (or broke) those magnets in half, it's been so long and I did a ton of them and still using them, I'd suggest an abrasive tile cutter at this point to get a better cleaner cut. Be aware that extreme heat kills magnetism though. Or just use the magnets whole. Hope this helps, I'll check in for any questions. Finally, Kadee couplers have long been known to behave best when mounted in Kadee draft gear boxes. And as well as good ol' #5s work, "Whiskers" work even better, especially if you can't use kadee boxes. Just my own experience there. Dan
Mel, I'd like to see pictures of your version of it, and lets see how it works for you. Dan
Southgate Mel, I'd like to see pictures of your version of it, and lets see how it works for you. Dan
SouthgateThere should be enough pictures to see how the uncouplers were made
Any hints as to how you made that slot in the benchwork?