Hi my name is Jim. I was wondering what is a good resource to help me do DCC Wiring for my layout? I am not an electrician at all so I would need something detailed and easy to follow. Also, I have a dozen or more Athearn BB locomotives. Is it ok to add DCC converter kit to them? Thanks!
UPNorth906,
Hello Jim,
Here is a site that will answer all Your questions, with How Too's, with diagrams. One of the best sites around. Keep for future referance. Click on link.....once on site, You can click on any Topic You want to learn. It will also explain installing Decoder's and Athearn BB's.
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/intro2dcc.htm
Take Care!
Frank
Very few model railroaders are electricians, but there is a lot of basic stuff that is not hard to learn with a little effort and practice you can learn things like soldering and stripping, insulating wires, wire sizes etc.
I would recommend a DCC primer book - they usually explain how to wire a layout for DCC. In fact you might even find some at your local library, I've been surprised to find some decent model RR books at mine.
As for Athearn blue box engines, it's not really a beginner job to add a decoder to them, but someone with the right instruction and motivation can learn. First off, the motors in Athearn blue box loco's is not insulated from the frame, so you have to completely remove the motor from the frame, and line the motor mount area with insulation, such as black electricians tape so the metal frame and contacts do not touch the metal frame - otherwise you will fry the decoder.
Most, but not all, newere Athearn RTR engines, KATO, Stewart, Walthers etc. have the motors insulated from the frame out of the factory so adding decoders is MUCH easier. In fact for beginners, its much easier if you buy engines which state that they are DCC ready on the box - that way you don't have (to a beginner) a big complex electrical project just to run your engines on DCC.
Those are just some opening thoughts. I'll let the people with warm keyboard chime in.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Thanks for the help guys. My dad and I used to do model railroading when I was a kid in the mid 80s. I am 36 now and my dad and I recently got the bug to get back into it. We got a dozen or more Athearn BB engines and would like to use them again for sentimental reasons. I started searching for HO layout designs and stuff this week and noticed all the DCC stuff on the plans and newer engines. After researching it out, DCC is definitely the way I would like to go. We never had a legit model railroad, always been simple and very poor landscape. I have been in drywall for a number of years so I know landscaping work is not going to be an issue and I feel like I will be able to do the DCC wiring with the right guide to help me through it. Thanks for the link Frank, I will be using that and I will check out my library. If there are some important things you think I should know before I start, give me a heads up :). Oh, what DCC control system would you guys recommend? What guage of wire as well? Thanks!
First, welcome to the MR Forums. You will always find lots of help here.
The Wiring for DCC web site is essentially the Bible for DCC electrical instruction and problem solving. But I found it to be a bit overwhelming at the outset. For starters I would suggest the Basic DCC Wiring for Your Model Railroad book by our host Kalmbach. You can find it here: https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/products/books/12448__Basic-DCC-Wiring-for-Your-Model-Railroad
Which DCC system? You will get many opinions here although Digitrax and NCE are most popular. You should try to sample using at least several, if possible, to see how they work and feel to you. The size of your layout and the number and type of locomotives you will be running (total amperage draw) should determine whether an expandable starter will get you going or if you need to go for a more powerful system, generally 5 amps or more. These will also impact the wire gauge--more amps = heavier guage (lower number). I have a medium sized layout with approximately 150' of mainline plus probably twice that for sidings, spurs and staging and typically run eight (=/- 2) locomotives, half of which have sound. I have a 5 amp system and used 14g stranded wire for my power bus and 22g solid wire for feeders (all connections soldered). I have had no electrical issues, i.e. overheating, mystery shorts, etc. A small layout running only two or three locomotives might make do with 16g or even 18g whereas a large layout with many sound locos may need a 10 amp system and 12g or even 10g power bus wire.
In choosing a DCC system you obviously want one whose use you can understand and, if purchasing a lower power/starter set, one that can be expanded. Additional important (in my opinion) factors are (1) are there other people in your area using the system you are looking at (they will be your mentors and "tech help") and (2) how does the throttle feel in your hand. When running trains the throttle will be in your hand at all times, which might be for an hour or two. If it feels uncomfortable and if it is cumbersom to use the buttons/dials/LCD screen you will tire of it quickly.
With resoect to the Athearn Blue Box locos, these were great locomotives a couple of decades ago. And they can be converted to DCC, although with some challenges as outlined in previous posts. But in general you will find the locomotives on the market today to be significantly superior to the BB's. They are designed and manufactured to run on DCC. Generally the motors draw fewer amps and they will run more smoothly, especially at low speeds, then your BB's. Consider buying one or two current models for starters, either DCC equipped or DCC ready. Then convert a couple of your BB's and compare them. If you still want to use the old favorites you can convert the rest of them over time.
Good luck and welcome back to the hobby!
Do you know what DCC converters I would need to get for my BB engines? I would like to try it out on a couple to see how it goes. I haven't run any of my engines in 15 years, maybe even longer. I will test them first to see how smooth they run, if they don't then I will get rid of them and buy DCC equiped or ready. But yea, what DCC converting kits are there? I don't even know what to look for.
Thanks Randy!
I found two decoders, the Digitrax DH123D and the TCS T1. Would both of these work on the BB engines and what do you all prefer between them? Any other options you like better?
It would be easier for someone to help You with a decoder to use in any engine.....if You would say which one of the BB's You want to do a install too! Like a Atheran SD 40-2 and so on. Then You will find video's from people who have already done the install that You can watch and learn from.
An example:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Life_Like/Proto2000_SD50/Proto2000%20SD50.html#page_top
A belated, To The Forums.
Between the two you mentioned my choice would be the T1 by TCS. But assuming the BB locomotive does not have a DCC plug (highly unlikely) you will need a harness like this: http://www.litchfieldstation.com/xcart/product.php?productid=190014&cat=76&page=1 The open wire ends will need to be soldered to various points on the locomotive.
You might want to consider the other choices in the T1 line depending upon how many functions you want to control independently and whether or not you want to change the 12V light bulb(s) in the locomotive to LED's.
And no matter what decoder you choose the motor MUST be insulated from the frame. I like to use kapton for this.
UPNorth906I found two decoders, the Digitrax DH123D and the TCS T1.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Thanks for all the tips! I will let you know how it goes with one of my engines, although that may be awhile since we do not have a DCC powerpak yet. Is NCE a recommended controller?
NCE was my choice but you should look at two or three (or more) systems before you decide. Refer to my earlier criteria, too.
I have a construction mindset so I think I will be able to handle soldering the DCC its on to my BB engines. I watched a few youtube videos on it as well. It looks fairly easy after you do a couple of them. I am going to try it out on a couple of engines that I don't really care if I ruin. I have never soldered before but I think I will be able to pick it up. I will practice on some scrap track pieces.
Does it matter if the turnouts are different codes? Say I get some code 80s and 75s for my layout, does that matter that they are different? I have noticed that track hasn't gotten any cheaper since I have last done this.
UPNorth906Say I get some code 80s and 75s for my layout, does that matter that they are different?
I presume that you are HO scale since you reference Athearn Blue Box, so I don't know how you arrived at codes 75 and 80. Typical HO track codes are 70, 83, and 100. (maybe Peco makes code 75?) I believe that code 100 can be found more inexpensively than the others.
You can technically join any code of rail to any other code of rail if you want to put a lot of effort into it. Generally it is better to stay with one particular product line until you know what you're doing, or have someone to advise you. That way you eliminate the "why don't the xyz company code 83 rail joiners fit on abc company's code 83 track".
For example, all code 83 means is that the height of the rail itself is supposed to be 0.083 inches high. However, not all code 83 rail is configured the same. In similar fashion, the overall height of Atlas code 83 rail (from bottom of tie to top of rail) is more than the overall height of Walther's code 83 rail. This is because Atlas made the ties of their code 83 track thicker so that the top of the rail would be at the same height as their code 100.
Hi UPNorth906
Welcome back to the hobby!
I would offer a suggestion for you to consider.
First, as you are aware, locomotives need to be running properly on DC before you install Decoders in them. Instead of simply putting your older Athearns on a track and giving them power to see how they run, it would be a good idea to do some basic maintenance on them first. There is a good likelyhood that the grease in the trucks is dried out and that the motors need some lubrication. It would be a shame to scrap some locomotives simply because the grease has dried out.
I suggest taking the shells off and the trucks apart so you can clean all the old grease out and put in fresh stuff. A good grease for the truck gears is Labelle #106 available from most hobby suppliers. You will also need some light oil for the wheel bearings, worm gear bearings and the motor bearings. Labelle #107 will work nicely. Remember to not apply tons of grease and oil. It will only make a mess in the shell and cause problems if it gets on to the wheels.
You should see a marked improvement in performance once the locos have been cleaned and re-lubricated. Plus, it will put a lot less stress on the decoders.
As far as the DCC system goes, I personally favour NCE, probably because its the only system I have ever worked with. I have the Powercab system and I have found it to be very easy to use. When I was choosing a system I liked the layout of the NCE throttle (controller) vs something like Digitrax which has a lot of buttons that all look the same.
If you have a local hobby shop or modelling club where you can see and perhaps test various systems you will be able to decide fairly quickly which system suits you. One other consideration, if you are going to join a local club, is to buy the same system that the club is using so you can go back and forth from home to the club easily.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
One other suggestion I would make is to stick to the same Code track and turnouts. Mixing different Codes can be done but it can create headaches if its not done right. You might regret saving a few bucks if it makes your track work difficult.
Also, do some research on the Peco turnouts if that is the brand you choose. They offer both 'Insulfrog' and 'Electrofrog' styles. The Insulfrog turnouts can be installed without any issues but the Electrofrog turnouts may require a bit of work to make them "DCC friendly" as the saying goes. You can find a lot of information on this in the 'Wiring for DCC' link mentioned in a previous post.