I plan to use LED strip lights to light the lower shelves of the 3 level (mushroom) layout that I will be starting construction on soon. I bought some "sample" 5 meter LED "cool white" light strips off E-Bay and did some tests to see which style of LED lights I preferred. I strung both the 5630 and 2835 strips (both light strips had 300 total LEDs) adjacent to each other under our kitchen cabinets and I used the android app Light Meter v2.2 to measure the light they produced 19" directly below on the counter.
2835
5630
The 2835 LEDs produce 22.7% more Lux/watt, but I prefer the cooler color temp of the 5630 LEDs because they are closer to the 6500K T8 fluorescent lights that will be used for room lighting. At this point I am leaning towards going with the 5630 strips because I prefer the color temp and they don't use much power anyway.
Regardless, I am going to use two LED strips per shelf in order to get the light level I want for model photography. I will probably install dimmer/voltage controls to adjust the light level as well.
Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.
- Photo album of layout construction -
Good idea testing them by eye. I've found the color temp by description is completely wonky for LED strip lighting. I'm using some right now that is described as Warm White, but it's the same stuff that used to be Daylight from the same vendor.
A good idea to match to the room lighting. You may eventually want to consider going with light strips up there. I've done that and the difference is outstanding, even though I was running Chroma 50 equivalent tubes. The best part is the lack of heat, which makes a big difference with ops sessions.
Two passes through will work with most scenes with decks close together. I have more of a nolix. The only actual lower deck areas are still lit with flourescents, although those will eventually get LED light strips, too. So my scenes are probably a little deeper and taller. I did have to add an additional pass thrpugha few scenes to get them really well lit, but that's so easy to do I advise people not to sweat it until they're got the lighting all up to see whether it works or needs a bit more intensity.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
OnewolfThe 2835 LEDs produce 22.7% more Lux/watt, but I prefer the cooler color temp of the 5630 LEDs because they are closer to the 6500K T8 fluorescent lights that will be used for room lighting. At this point I am leaning towards going with the 5630 strips because I prefer the color temp and they don't use much power anyway.
Our most recent renovations did not use flourscent lights at all. The troffers are fitted with LED strips. Nice. Pricy, but nice. Also, no bulb replacements.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I've replaced most of my lights with LEDs, shouldn;t have to repalce any bulbs for a long time.
For the layout, I am planning all LED strips. I don't expect to use the room lights AND the layout lights together most of the time, so matching the LEDs to the flourescents is not a high priority. The room lights are for construction, and waling around in the basement. During operations I expect to turn off the overhead room lights and just use the layout lighting - whioch in addition to a white set of lights, I want to get a strip of blue, and a strip of RGB ones, so I can do sunrise/sunset as well as night. Kind of pricey now, but in another couple of years when I finally get building, they should be more reasonable.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I have troffers in a suspended ceiling and it was the buzzing from the old magnetic ballasts that drove me nuts. Worse since the ceiling is fairly low and when the ballast is cold they buzz louder. New ballasts and 4 T-8 lamps for each fixture would have run almost $50 (x8) so these LEDs are half that and use much less current.
I went with these LED tubes and eliminated the ballasts alltogether.
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/117550/LED-54104411.html
Don't remember exactly which brand I bought but they are dead silent, bright and a lot less expensive now. They were about $30. each when I first bought them!
Good Luck, Ed
I replaced 3 runs of 3000K led "rope" lights with 2 runs of 5050 Daylight led strips over my On3 switching area.It's a whole new world down there,now.
Mike
First, thanks for all the thoughtful replies.
I plan to use 13 dual T8 fixtures with 6500K high CRI bulbs for general room (construction) lighting and to also initially to light the upper level of the layout. I have not figured out a long term strategy for lighting the upper level.
Those LED tubes that can replace T8 fluorescent tubes reportedly produce a much warmer light (3000K color temp) and not nearly enough light level (brightness) for my usage.
I have approx 260 linear feet of lower shelf layout to light so these inexpensive LED strip lights are looking like a very good option.