I am considering printing a diagram of my yard, then gluing it to an 1/8" panel. I want to be able to drill through the mounted diagram to mount switches and LEDs. I am looking for any suggestions as to mounting techniques as well as surfacing techniques. The diagram will be printed on an ink jet printer, so having the ink run is a consideration. I was thinking about a spray adhesive, then multiple coats of a clear spray. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
Richard
Spray will work but best to go with thin plastic over the design, will help keep the paper from ripping when you drill also.
last time I built control panels like that, I used 2 pieces of plexiglas. One piece, I painted flat black, then just laid my color printed diagram (with plain black circles of the proper diameter indicating where I had to drill for toggles and LEDs) on top and covered with another piece. Temporaily taped around the edges to hold it together. Drilled out the holes (BTW make TWO printed copies - the one used in drilling WILL get torn). Removed the tape, swapped printouts, carefully cut the holes int he paper. Insert the toggles and screw in place - these served to hold the panel together, plus screws in the corners to mount it to a wood frame I made. For a more fancy finished look, use two pieces of woor at each side, or a basic dimensional lumber with molding on top, nicely beveled. You'll have to routr out as groove the thickness of the plexi so it seats flush, and then apply the molding cap which will secure the panel in place, hold the two halves together, and make for a very nice finished look.
Sounds more complicated that it really is.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Years ago I painted the size of masonite the background color I wanted andframed it, then used different colors of automotive striping tape for the diagram and then sealed it with a clear semi gloss spray,(two coats). I drilled very carefully for toggle switches so as not to hurt the painted surface. It lasted for 27 years before I took it down and was easily cleaned with a damp rag. Doug
rgengineoiler Years ago I painted the size of masonite the background color I wanted andframed it, then used different colors of automotive striping tape for the diagram and then sealed it with a clear semi gloss spray,(two coats). I drilled very carefully for toggle switches so as not to hurt the painted surface. It lasted for 27 years before I took it down and was easily cleaned with a damp rag. Doug
After putting the Dymo tape down, I went over the whole works with a soft rubber roller and a hair drier, to assure a good bond between the tape and the plastic. All necessary holes were drilled with extreme caution, mostly into gaps left in the tape for toggles and rotary switches.
My still unnamed top of the valley colliery control panel has been in operation for, literally, decades, with no deterioration.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
here is a panel i finished last weekend. printed on paper then laminated. i have a set of punches to do the switch holes and mounting screws. if needed i then add some glue from a glue stick.
a small single sw. panel done the same
later
g
FB page of my layout *new*
https://www.facebook.com/ghglines
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thread to my layout
http://www.warcrc.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10505
pics
http://s237.photobucket.com/user/rockcrawling/library/#/user/rockcrawling/library/ho%20scale%20trains?sort=3&page=1&_suid=1388183416990004180295067414064
Here is modelboard of LION.
Him printed the diagram using a laser printer on card stock. IF have you not a laser printer, I'd take the project to a printer's establishment who can do it for you.
I told my drawing program that the paper was 11 inches tall and 72 inches wide. It cf course *knew* that I loaded 11x17 paper, the largest our printer would accept, and I told it I wanted 2" of ovelap on the separate pages so that I could control where I made the splices.
LION happend to mount this on a 11x72 laminate that Menards thought was supposed to be used for shelving. So it is a nice firm foundation for the modelboard.
LION uses silicone caulk as an adhesive. It does not cause the pages to warp or wrinkle. Him applied a thin coat to the entire suraface of the board and then carefull laid out the printed stock. The silicone allows me to slide or reposition a page if that is necessary. The silicone spread across the surface of the board assures that there are no pockets where the pages are not adheared properly. This is important when you drill your holes.
In photograph you can see cables from the modelboard to the table (and thence to the control system). these are Parallel port extensions that I bought for the porpoise. I cut them in the middle and so had lenghts with open wire, and connectors that I could connect or disconnect.
This particular board has no switches on it, only LEDs to indicate the locations of the trains.
On the Computer:
The Innards:
The product in my computer office before it was brought up to the railroad room:
Installed with the GRS Interlocking Machine
ROAR (and all that stuff)
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I used a large piece of plastic and used pin striping from the auto store red for the yards and black and blue for mains then I covered it with a piece of plexiglas and held it down tight to the plastic with a piece of used plywood underneath to drill the holes for leds and switches. I attached the plexiglas with screws before drilling and take your time drilling. use a small bit first before you drill the correct hole.
I made my first attempt. I printed the yard diagram using AnyRail and attached it to a piece of 1/8” board using a spray adhesive. I then used the spray adhesive to mount a piece of clear styrene on top. I am still trying to decide if it is acceptable.
Note: The yard is not to scale but has been reduced to fit on the board.
I made mine using a piece of 3/8" lauan plywood and Chartpak tape (available at Staples or Amazon). Then I sealed it with 3 coats of polyurethane. I'm very pleased with how it turned out.
If you don't mind spending a little (or a lot) more, you can send a graphics file to a professional sign maker, and they can print it on 3/8" styrene for you.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
This is off topic, but what is the purpose of the switch in the lower right corner?
LION knows not, it is not tha layout of him, but it was said that the diagram was not to scale so that could be a very long passing pocket. Ieven if it is not, the engine can run around its caboose to operate in the other direction.
ROAR
big daydreamer This is off topic, but what is the purpose of the switch in the lower right corner?
As it looks in the picture of the board, the bottom-right switch/track doesn't seem to make much sense. I compressed the layout to fit on the board. This is what the complete layout looks like. It make more sense in the real world.
Also, here is an update to the switch board. I have installed all of the switches and LEDs. I have wired all of turnouts. What is left is the the power switches for the yard, located on the left side of the board. The Digitrax manual states that it is not good to leave a DC locomotive stationary on a DCC-powered track. I have decided to set things up such that I can turn power on and off to any of the individual tracks in the yard.
This was a layout I did in CorelDraw and had printed on a heavy satin paper as it was too big for my printer (13 x 22"). I cemented it to an .080" alum sheet with spray adhesive.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!