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Things I shoulda thought of first...

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Things I shoulda thought of first...
Posted by erosebud on Sunday, July 20, 2014 10:02 AM

Sorry for the nonspecific subject line, but this could become a running thread, I suspect.  I'll open it with a confession about rail height and ground level.  I thought I was being a good modeler by using an extra layer of cork under the mainline (also cork) roadbed to distinguish it from sidings, as many articles advise.  But now that I'm finally installing a few structures, I was persuaded by contributors here and elsewhere to mount them on GatorFoam board.  Doing so, however, obviously requires bringing the level of the ground up from the plywood base of the layout to the height of the foam board, typically 3/16"--the thickness of the roadbed.

I'm not sure yet what I'll do.  I doubt that I'll be routing out the plywood.  The roadbed and its underlayment are far too secure to raise with another layer of cork; what's worse is that many structures are adjacent to sidings that are only on one layer of roadbed, or none at all.  I hate to think I wasted that money on GatorFoam (despite the Alder Creek's official motto:  "Money's No Object"). If you have ideas, send them along.  If you want to make similar confessions, be my guest.

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Posted by cmrproducts on Sunday, July 20, 2014 10:36 AM

erosebud

Probably the reason most on the forums recomend the base under the building as they build quite fragle units and the base supports the building during movement to the layout.

Most if not all of my buildings have no base under them and I place them right on the Homasote which is my top - I also use HO & N scale cork to raise up the roadbed to be the look of Mainline and Passing Sidings.

If for some reason I need to raise up a building to track level and the track is on cork - I can use Foamcor or cork to bring the building up to level with the track!

When I scenorize the area with the building I put sand to bring the ground up around the foundation of the building so it looks like it is in the ground - not sitting on top.

I then use ground foam etc to finish off the area around the building to suit!

One does NOT have to always place a Gator Foam base under their buildings - it is just some like it and others don't - try it and see which you like!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

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Posted by maxman on Sunday, July 20, 2014 11:06 AM

I used HO scale cork roadbed for the mainline, and N scale cork for the sidings.  Then I made some foundation bases from 3/16 floor underlayment.  That seems to have raised the warehouse building doors to the correct elevation.

If you used two layers of cork under your mainline it seems to me that your foundations should need to be moved up.  I'm not sure I understand why you think you might need to machine out the plywood.

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Posted by cowman on Sunday, July 20, 2014 11:06 AM

As mentioned above, foam core board or cork could be used for fill, also scrap pieces of GatorFoam, whatever is the right thickness.  The piece I have was a sample given to me at a show, but though it isn't very thick, it seems quite strong.  Just a small piece under each corner (maybe a couple other places under a larger building) should hold it up and I don't think it would sag.  The ridgidness of the GatorFoam should be your friend.

If you make several pieces of GatorFoam the same size and make a full scene on each, then you would have changable scenes to vary your layout and give you the opportunity to have more scenes, some stored while others are on the layout.

Good luck,

Richard

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  • From: East Haddam, CT
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Posted by CTValleyRR on Sunday, July 20, 2014 1:06 PM

So, if I understand you correctly, your issue is that you laid your mainline track on 2 layers of cork roadbed, and your sidings one one, so that the structure sitton a piece of Gatorfoam is too high for the siding.

Most of us-- or at least many -- get around this by putting our track up on risers or 2" foamboard, so that there is plenty of room below grade to work with. In this case, the area below the structure could be hollow, relying on the Gatorfoam to support the structure.  This would involve ripping up your track, as would adding more cork under it.  Your best bet, I think, would be to remove the Gatorfoam and use something thinner.  Perhaps large sheets of styrene.  You may be able to buy this in bulk and fairly cheaply at a place that makes custom signs.

Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford

"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford

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Posted by carl425 on Sunday, July 20, 2014 2:27 PM

I'm not sure that I agree that having ground level and bottom of tie level on a siding being the same is a problem. Most of the sidings that I've seen are on the ground with no raised ballast at all. Many are even sunken into the ground so that only the top of the rail is at or above ground level.

I have the right to remain silent.  By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.

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Posted by mlehman on Sunday, July 20, 2014 3:37 PM

carl425

I'm not sure that I agree that having ground level and bottom of tie level on a siding being the same is a problem. Most of the sidings that I've seen are on the ground with no raised ballast at all. Many are even sunken into the ground so that only the top of the rail is at or above ground level.

For industrial spurs and other such track, yes, definitely letting the track sink to at or near ground level is pretty realistic a lot of the time.

For passing sidings and other trackage accessory to the main, though, while lower than the main, is usually on at least a modest rise compared to adjacent ground. So, just to really throw this for a loop, it's three levels you need to consider, not just two.

On the other hand, the relationship between a rail line and the adjoining ground can vary widely There's is the idealized version that simple to understand, then there is real life which varies quite a lot.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

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Posted by ndbprr on Sunday, July 20, 2014 4:15 PM
Well as usual I am a contrarian. Two layers of cork would make an 8' plus or minus above grade track level. I think one level of cork is too high so I use cheap paneling ripped in one inch strips for mainlines and grade level for yards and industries. I stack the paneling strips on edge and slot them almost all the way through with a radial arm saw about every half inch. One four by eight piece of paneling yields about 375' of strips. Damaged panels can be had for a couple of bucks and yield nearly as much because usually it is just a damaged corner.
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Posted by carl425 on Sunday, July 20, 2014 4:47 PM

mlehman
For passing sidings and other trackage accessory to the main, though, while lower than the main, is usually on at least a modest rise compared to adjacent ground. So, just to really throw this for a loop, it's three levels you need to consider, not just two.

Agreed. I assumed when the OP mentioned buildings that meant he was referring to industrial sidings.  A reread reveals I was assuming facts not in evidence.

I have the right to remain silent.  By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.

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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Sunday, July 20, 2014 7:16 PM

The prototype sidings I have seen are all over the place with regard to how much ballast/roadbed there is.

Mainlines are raised, but sometimes the slope of the ground means the ground beside the tracks is higher.  When that's the case there is a drainage ditch along side the tracks.  So if you place the base a little away from the roadbed you'll have a drainage ditch and be just fine.

Good luck

Paul

If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Posted by erosebud on Sunday, July 20, 2014 9:09 PM

Great responses all, and useful to boot.  Thanks to everyone for chiming in.  I can settle down and get to work now.

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Posted by cowman on Sunday, July 20, 2014 11:02 PM

How thick is the Gator Foam you are using?  It comes in many thicknesses.

Good luck,

Richard

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