I'm trying to decide between Peco and Micro Engineering code 83 flex track for my next layout. Any preferences? Why?
Thanks.
Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.
- Photo album of layout construction -
OnewolfI'm trying to decide between Peco and Micro Engineering code 83 flex track for my next layout.
Sorry you've had no replies -- sometimes it takes a while for new members to have their first posts approved and folks don’t notice the posts when they finally appear.
Both are fine products, look good, and work well.
Some find the ME flex track too stiff (others prefer that) and it can be a little delicate.
PECO C83 offers a much broader variety of turnouts (track switches) than does ME, so many people go that way simply for that reason.
In the US, PECO is generally a little more expensive.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
Welcome to the forums.
If you are a beginner, I would recommend Peco or Atlas flextrack. Both are easier to work with than MicroEngineering flextrack. All three have about the same amout of detail, and once the ballast is applied, it is hard to tell them apart.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
I prefer the ME weathered track.
The why is simple.
I prefer stiff track that will stay in place once shaped instead of flopping back to its straight configuration once its been laid in place.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
BRAKIEI prefer stiff track that will stay in place once shaped instead of flopping back to its straight configuration once its been laid in place.
T-Pins would solve that problem. Then As Cody says: "The tried and true way is to nail the track in place"
Joe C
dominic c BRAKIE I prefer stiff track that will stay in place once shaped instead of flopping back to its straight configuration once its been laid in place. T-Pins would solve that problem. Then As Cody says: "The tried and true way is to nail the track in place" Joe C
BRAKIE I prefer stiff track that will stay in place once shaped instead of flopping back to its straight configuration once its been laid in place.
True,but,I hate double work as bad as I do rework..
For me its simpler to join the track together and then make the needed bend off the switch,adjust the rail for a smooth joint and then spike the track in place.
I have found it's a quite a chore to get the stiff track to it's proper shape, where as with springy atlas track, it's much easier. I lay on a centerline so it's also much easier to lay with nails, so as nail it, it conforms to the centerline rather than a pre-formed shape, which may or may not conform.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
riogrande5761 I have found it's a quite a chore to get the stiff track to it's proper shape, where as with springy atlas track, it's much easier. I lay on a centerline so it's also much easier to lay with nails, so as nail it, it conforms to the centerline rather than a pre-formed shape, which may or may not conform.
Jim,I learn how to lay track with Atlas brass track with fiber board ties way back in the Jurassic age and comparing the ME weathered rail to the fiber ties the ME track is a breeze.
Its really not that hard to conformed.
I suppose to you young'ns anything stiffer then the whimpy Atlas track is hard.
Since you are mostly using Peco turnouts, you ought to use Peco flex track and Peco rail joiners. They just all fit well together.
Atlas flex track is a little easier to work with than Peco because it is springs back to straight. Atlas flex track is currently all but unavailable, but should be back in stock no later than December 31, 2020.
Rich
Alton Junction
If you jumped on the band wagon and preordered with your supplier...you would have had your Atlas track 3 months ago.
Take Care!
Frank
My LHS now has cases of c83 and c100 Fles track in
AND!
The c83 & c100 Turnouts are arriving daily!
If your Hobby Shop is STILL out - better get a NEW HOBBY SHOP!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
BRAKIE Jim,I learn how to lay track with Atlas brass track with fiber board ties way back in the Jurassic age and comparing the ME weathered rail to the fiber ties the ME track is a breeze. Its really not that hard to conformed. I suppose to you young'ns anything stiffer then the whimpy Atlas track is hard.
God bless you for making this semi old fart feel a bit younger!
I am so glad when I was coming into the hobby, fiber tie track was on the way out! I got a piece or two mail-order back in the 70's and was expecting something like Atlas plastic tie track - not very nice stuff - no envy there! As for stiff flex track, I do have some code 70 that I bought for my yard on the last layout and have played with it some - sure, not that hard, maybe but not a joy to work with either.I have lots of "whimpy" Atlas track saved from the last layout and by golly it's saving me a lot of money right now, what with a daughter in college, ug, thats hundreds of dollars I don't have to spend!
Allow me to be a "rebel" and give one of my "good" reasons that springy track has a very good application. I like to use easements in my transitions from curved to straight track. One of the methods given for getting an easement centerline is to take a springy piece of steel and conform it between the curve and the tangent through the halfway point drawn - per John Armstrongs "Track Planning for Realistic Operation" book. The springy flex track, if you lay it along a curved center line you draw and let it "spring" into the tangent, it conforms a very nice easement. I used the "old school" John Armstong method of laying track along centerlines, so that springy track works great as I just put it down with the Atlas track nails or spikes. Once I'm happy with the track geometry, I can ballast the track and remove the nails.
Cheers, Jim
After completion of the benchwork and just before the great Atlas track snafu I purchased a stick of Atlas, M.E. and Shinohara code 83. I liked the looks of the M.E. and the tie height and rail matched the turnouts I was going to use.
Did take some research and practice to get the hang of forming the M.E., I find using metal rules and straight and radius track gauges helpful. For me the extra effort in forming the more delicate M.E. is worth the looks and I ended up liking how it keeps it's shape.
The M.E. keeping it's form also helps when spray painting the track off the layout, no sliding rail holidays to touch up after laying.
good luck, regards, Peter
richhotrainAtlas flex track is currently all but unavailable, but should be back in stock no later than December 31, 2020.
I guess that is supposed to be funny (which it isn’t, by the way), but it is totally incorrect. Atlas flex track in both Code 83 and Code 100 is in stock at modeltrainstuff and many other retailers.
cuyama richhotrain Atlas flex track is currently all but unavailable, but should be back in stock no later than December 31, 2020. I guess that is supposed to be funny (which it isn’t, by the way), but it is totally incorrect. Atlas flex track in both Code 83 and Code 100 is in stock at modeltrainstuff and many other retailers.
richhotrain Atlas flex track is currently all but unavailable, but should be back in stock no later than December 31, 2020.
Ok... hah hah. Atlas has taken a beating for their track supply problems. They are probably getting weary of the RichHOtrain jokes. Even when people comment Kleins had Atlas back in stock, it's often not long before it sells out again - at least until the pent up demand starts to ease.
Oh, and Brakie, the MAIN reason in the past that I used that "wimpy" Atlas flex track is because I couldn't afford the more expensive stiff brands of flex track. I have enough of that left over that it will suffice for my current layout - need to keep costs down with a daughter in college and keeping me poor!
riogrande5761Oh, and Brakie, the MAIN reason in the past that I used that "wimpy" Atlas flex track is because I couldn't afford the more expensive stiff brands of flex track. I have enough of that left over that it will suffice for my current layout - need to keep costs down with a daughter in college and keeping me poor!
I can understand that..Geesh! Last time I seen a photo of you and your daughter she was young..I guess kids grow up much to fast.
I was fixing to use Peco switches with Atlas flex track but,it was out of stock for quite some time at several on line shops and locally so,I decided on ME weathered flex track..Glad I did.
Yes, how fast does time fly. She is 19 now and a biochem engineering major - at least the money is going to a good use. A few more years of financial servitude and finances should ease a bit.
I have some code 70 Walthers flex track I plan on using in the yard - it's similar the ME... I may get some ME if I need more - I'd like to try out the ME switches too. Since my 10 x 18 layout is a bit smaller than the last layout, the track I saved may cover 90% of what I need, a big cost savings. I did pick up couple of Peco code 100 curved turnouts to squeeze in a little more length in my storage tracks. I have to say, I like the Peco turnouts but I have only used the code 100 so far. The code 83 are a lot more expenisve but I may try a couple at some point.
riogrande5761 I'd like to try out the ME switches too.
I'd like to try out the ME switches too.
People complain that ME only makes #6 turnouts, but those of us that use them love them. They have nice detail, an over-center spring and are reliable. Plus, as everything has gone up, they have become a really good value - MBKlein has them for $16.79, list is just 20.95. Betcha can't try just one...
HO-Velo After completion of the benchwork and just before the great Atlas track snafu I purchased a stick of Atlas, M.E. and Shinohara code 83. I liked the looks of the M.E. and the tie height and rail matched the turnouts I was going to use. Did take some research and practice to get the hang of forming the M.E., I find using metal rules and straight and radius track gauges helpful. For me the extra effort in forming the more delicate M.E. is worth the looks and I ended up liking how it keeps it's shape. The M.E. keeping it's form also helps when spray painting the track off the layout, no sliding rail holidays to touch up after laying. good luck, regards, Peter
Bringing this message thread back to life....
I ended up deciding to use Atlas code 100 super flex track in the hidden lower and upper return loops. I have started laying this track and it's been going great. The Atlas code 100 super flex is very easy to work with.
Almost a year ago I decided to use Micro Engineering code 83 for the mainline and major branch lines and I ordered/received 200 pieces of it. It's getting close to the point where I will need to start laying this track so I've begun to play around with it and I am finding it very difficult to get the smooth flowing curves like I get with the Atlas and Peco flex track. Are there any secrets/tactics for getting this track to produce perfectly smooth and flowing curves?
Here's a good video on laying ME flex:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmE0EiWPQHk
It convinced me to use Atlas code 83.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Onewolf It's getting close to the point where I will need to start laying this track so I've begun to play around with it and I am finding it very difficult to get the smooth flowing curves like I get with the Atlas and Peco flex track. Are there any secrets/tactics for getting this track to produce perfectly smooth and flowing curves? Thanks.
I'm in the minority who use ME code 83 weathered track for the 1st layout. Curving that track is tough, so I create suitable curves by removing some of the ties. I like that ME stays curved while Atlas springs back to straight. The former allows me to test the loco and rolling stock before securing that down w/ shirt nails.
Onewolf Bringing this message thread back to life.... I am finding it very difficult to get the smooth flowing curves like I get with the Atlas and Peco flex track. Are there any secrets/tactics for getting this track to produce perfectly smooth and flowing curves? Thanks.
I am finding it very difficult to get the smooth flowing curves like I get with the Atlas and Peco flex track. Are there any secrets/tactics for getting this track to produce perfectly smooth and flowing curves?
My secret is to buy a springy brand!
Thats the reason why some of us avoid the stiff track and now you are finding out now. I've got some stiff Walthers code 70 and I'm just using it in the yard where mostly I just have to massage stiff track into a fairly straight section. I really really don't think I'd enjoy trying to massage it into a curve of constant radius - sounds like added work when - as you know - there is PLENTY of work to building a layout anyway.
I still find springy flex track to be oh so easy to work with - it bends so easily into a nice even curve. I may look into Peco for whatever layout I may do in the future if it is springy. Atlas does make code 83 and its got much smaller molded on spikes so should look decent when painted, ballasted and weathered.
I’ve used 100’s of feet of ME flex in codes 83, 70 and 55. I use a template on a piece of plywood with the most common radii I use drawn out on it. I start curving from the center of the piece and make multiple passes to get the curve I want. I don’t try to make big bends in one pass. I keep checking with the template until the piece matches the desired radius. One of the keys is to pay attention to the ties. Keep them perpendicular to the rails and don’t let them bunch up. With some practice, you will get the hang of it.
In my experience, un-weathered track bends easier than weathered track. It is also easier to solder feeders to the track when it is not weathered.
Why bother with this? I value the accuracy and realistic appearance enough to put up with some extra work bending the track. To my eye ME flex looks better than any of the other brands. It has more accurate railhead shape and scale spike detail. Sure the other stuff can be made to look good, but IMHO ME will look better in the same scene. In close up photos the better detail is very noticeable.
Here is code 70 and 55 me flex in a scene:
Here is code 83 and 70:
Have fun,
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
I have always used Atlas. I recently (well, been a little while now) picked up some ME and Peco to try out. Much prefer Peco. The looser movement (not as loose as Atlas) makes it so much easier to make a smooth curve. Plus Peco has a greater variety of turnouts even than Atlas. So my basement size layout will be Peco.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I;ve always only been able to get Atlas flex track but when I did my trestle I used ME bridge track, I'm not sure if the ME bridge track just has ties closer together or its the characteristics of it staying in place when its put into a curve shape.
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174