I run HOn3 and have only solid points to solid frog, Shinohara switches. I do not alter or cut any switch, ever, in my DCC layout.
I just isolate the two exiting frog stub rails with insulated rail joiners or healthy gaps where the switch normally ends those rails.
I use some of my old HO layout's two coil Lambert Associates switch machines and connect the points-frog rail group to the center lug of the machines "throw contacts" and the outer two "throw contacts to there respective outer two un-insulated switch rails.
I have also not had any issues with switch machine mechanical motion of the points to its relay points timing issues.
No need to fiddle with any switch.
Works fine for all my rolling stock and locos. Out of gauge, metal wheeled stuff can create issues, as Michael noted.
All the above being said, If I were making a giant club DCC layout where large operating sessions would be the norm with multiple cabs and every club yahoo will be running every kind of engine and piece of rolling stock made from 1938 to current rolling stock, then, I would gap the life out of every switch that was laid making it a flawless, bullet proof, DCC friendly switch. I would cut 'em up like an old out of date credit card!
If your layout is small, you are a "lone operator", espcially in an oddball gauge where the average Joe can't bring over a "visiting engine", then don't mess with your switches.