Anyone besides this old guy still using these? I'm curently building a new (and last....) layout since moving into our retirement condo four years ago and I've reached the point of laying track. I've never found anything better that didn't cost an arm and a leg for under-table operation of Atlas HO switch machines. GH Products is long gone out of business - so long ago in fact a Google search only turns up of a couple of "whatever happened to GH Products" posts. Nothing on EBay either. Sure wish I could get my hands on a dozen of 'em to replace the worse for wear ones I have....
Coming from this photographically-challenged fossil, this will sound rather hypocritical, but if you could post a photo of the guilty object, perhaps some member of the forum could suggest a suitable substitute. When I shouted GH Products into my subconscious, not even an echo...
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Sorry....I'm equally digital camera challenged, or better put, at my age I have no use for one with a daughter that'll be 50 in August, a son 47 and my youngest of 4 grandsons turning 21 in a few months. Way past the take family vacation photos stage. And with nearly $3000 of obsolete SLR film equipment sitting on a shelf in my closet that I haven't the heart to just toss in the scrap heap I can't justify even a cheap $150 digital point and shoot.
As for substitutes, there is nothing on the market that remotely resembles these turnout kits. I did email MRR in hopes the club name may be in the archives .... or one of the few retired MRR staff of that era still with us that might remember. I did see an article in my online search where someone made the actuator rod portion but I can't find it now. I'll revisit my search and if I can find it I'll post back with the link. At least you'll get an idea of the prime design...
I found an advertisment for the GH Products Turnout Improvement Kits in the November 1972 Model Railroader, page 22. It is a fairly simple device designed to allow a standard top mount Atlas switch motor to be mounted under the benchwork. It consists of an actuating wire that connects the switch bar above the track to the turnout motor below, with a bearing and mounting plate on the wire to hold it in place. By the look of the wire it is meant to go into the tie bar hole from the top. I am not sure if the wire is intended to go between the tracks or be connected to a tie bar extension.
Unfortunately the 75 year DVD collection doesn't seem to permit copying and pasting so I can't put the image in this post. (Kalmbach - are you listening? I think that was a mistake).
I did a brief search in the forums and came up with this method for using Atlas standard switch motors under benchwork. The PDF take a while to load:
http://www.thewoodcrafter.net/HCL/undert.pdf
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critter I found an advertisment for the GH Products Turnout Improvement Kits in the November 1972 Model Railroader, page 22. It is a fairly simple device designed to allow a standard top mount Atlas switch motor to be mounted under the benchwork. It consists of an actuating wire that connects the switch bar above the track to the turnout motor below, with a bearing and mounting plate on the wire to hold it in place. By the look of the wire it is meant to go into the tie bar hole from the top. I am not sure if the wire is intended to go between the tracks or be connected to a tie bar extension. Unfortunately the 75 year DVD collection doesn't seem to permit copying and pasting so I can't put the image in this post. (Kalmbach - are you listening? I think that was a mistake). I did a brief search in the forums and came up with this method for using Atlas standard switch motors under benchwork. The PDF take a while to load: http://www.thewoodcrafter.net/HCL/undert.pdf Dave
Appreciate you taking time to search through the DVD plus the link you found for another adaptation. The difference between the two methods is the linked adaptation requires a clearance hole through the roadbed and plywood sufficient to allow a wire to move side to side to move the switch points. The GH actuator assembly rotates a "J" shaped rod actuator with a down-turned stub that slips into a hole drilled in center of the switch point tie that move when the actuator is rotated.
I'll try to verbalize the prime piece of the GH turnout actuator for undertable mount of the Atlas switch machines:
Visualize a 3" piece of piano wire inserted inside a 2-1/2" length of 1/16" brass tubing (slip fit) held vertically with (2) 90 degree bends at the top end to form a "J" shape, with the horizontal heel of the "J" 5'8" long and a short 1/8" tip length facing downward.
The first 90 degree bend is 2-3/16" from the bottom end of the brass tube with wire inside that leaves a short 1/4" section of the brass tube with the wire inside beyond the bend. This bend effectively secures the wire inside of the brass tubing.
From this point the wire is exposed a distance of approx. 5/16" to the second 90 degree bend that leaves a 1/8" section extending down. This 1/8" stub is what fits in a hole centered in the switch points tie. (Another way to visualize the basic design is to straighten out a paper clip, put a 90 degree 1/8" bend at one end, then slip fit the remaining straight section inside a piece of brass tubing followed by a 2nd 90 degree bend 5/8" from the 1/8" bend).
This assembly is then inserted into another piece of slip fit brass bushing 3/4" long that is pressed into a hole drilled between the ties down through the cork road and plywood base. The bushing allows the rod to rotate and shift the turnout points when connected to the Atlas switch machine mounted under the layout (there is another assembly that gets solders to the J-formed actuator that the moveable plastic tip of the Atlas switch machine fits into - but too involved to try to describe in words).
The location of the hole for the bushing that's pressed through the cork roadbed and plywood base can be either in front or back of the switch point tie but has to be postioned so the 1/8" tip of the "J" assembly that points down fits freely into a clearance hole drilled in the center of the switch points tie.
Over50
Why not make them yourself? You already have one to copy, and the raw materials are easily found.
It,s sometimes refered to as an Anderson link. I used these on and old layout years ago; I've since started making my own and have used them to remote mount Caboose hobby ground throws at the front edge of my yard.A piece of J shaped piano wire in a in 1/16" brass tube makes the link to below then bend and make loop for wire or plastic piece from switch machine.
Wayne
Thanks for the reply. I pretty much came to this conclusion before I posted since there are no other viable cost options - including the considerable added expense of changing over from my code 100 track and t.o.'s to everything code 83 just to use readily available Peco turnout actuators. I'm too far down life's road to make a long term investment like this now. But figured I'd ask anyway on the remote chance someone had a few of these gathering dust in a remote corner of their work room.
Last post was for hon30critter...
wrumbel Over50 It,s sometimes refered to as an Anderson link. I used these on and old layout years ago; I've since started making my own and have used them to remote mount Caboose hobby ground throws at the front edge of my yard.A piece of J shaped piano wire in a in 1/16" brass tube makes the link to below then bend and make loop for wire or plastic piece from switch machine. Wayne
After all this time I didn't know this type of actuator had a name! My layout rebuild (15'x16' walk-in folded loop arrangment with a point to point elevated sectioni) will have 34 turnouts all said and done and after a quick inventory it looks like I'll have to make up a few "J" actuators as you suggested (and thanks for the loop idea to engage the Atlas switch machine actuator pin).
I've got all the cork roadbed down except for one last 12 foot section (working on now) plus track laid with the buss feeder connections in two of the three hidden sections that includes part of a return loop. Still a lot of track and t.o.'s to install before I get to installing the actuators. And then comes the wiring.....which if all goes well will be next winter's project. By the way, I took notice of your Grand Blanc location in your signature. I'm just up the road in Davison Twp...which I would have listed but I can't find a way to add my location to my user name in the Public Profile edit options.
Perhaps I am uninformed, but why does the guage of the track affect the use of Peco turnout controls?
I have purchased Peco Code 100 turnouts for my layout. The Peco snap switch units seem to work just fine with the Code 100 switches. Please explain.
Thanks.
hon30critter Over50 Perhaps I am uninformed, but why does the guage of the track affect the use of Peco turnout controls? I have purchased Peco Code 100 turnouts for my layout. The Peco snap switch units seem to work just fine with the Code 100 switches. Please explain. Thanks. Dave
Assuming you're referring to Peco code 100 Set Track turnouts from what I've seen at my LHS they have a smaller/sharper radius/angle than the code 100 Atlas Custom Line turnouts I use plus there is only one available size for regular (and curved) turnouts unlike Atlas with three (4,6,and 8). And as far as I know the Peco Set Track snap switch units aren't readily adaptable for under-table use with Atlas t.o.'s.
hon30critter Over50 Why not make them yourself? You already have one to copy, and the raw materials are easily found. Dave
I agree, I used them in teh past and they work very well. Should not be too hard to fabricate using brass tubing, spring wire and some styrene.
Another option, which I am looking into is to use Atlas Blow the Table machines.
RicZ
RicZ Another option, which I am looking into is to use Atlas Blow the Table machines. RicZ
RicZ....The plastic actuator rod with the Atlas UT switch machine is harder to align from what I've read plus the actuator has to move side to side thus requiring a larger hole in the roadbed and plywood. The "J" shape actuator pivots in a brass tube bushing pushed into a 3/32" hole through the roadbed and plywood base and is barely noticeable in operation - which is the prime reason I settled on this type of throw when I started using custom line t.o.'s. in the mid-70's.
On a new layout the Atlas under table switch machine would be easier to install. Use the hole for the actuator in the center of the track the fat Atlas throw bar covers it up. Drill a small pilot whole marking the center of the other end of the turnout. Mount the switch machine on the center line of the turnout.
Lee
First try to upload a few of my in-progress new layout build pics using photobucket (track plan included)
To hon30critter (another Brantfordian, no less!):
Did you try the Windows Snipping Tool? It takes a picture of ANYTHING on your screen, and should be buried in your Accessories if you're running a Windows OS.
"Blow the table"!?!
Sounds like Gomez Adams! Could be a lot of fun but hard on the scenery!!
Sorry, I couldn't resist. No offense intended.
bidpianoguy
Thanks for the suggestion about the 'Snipping Tool'. I will investigate that.
By the way, I am in Bradford ( Holland Marsh, north of Toronto ) not Brantford, but close enough. Confuses the heck out of the Post Office! But then, what doesn't?!?
We are almost exactly the same distance from The Credit Valley Railway, so we can share complaints about their regular prices and shipping costs.
Over50!
That is a great layout!
Please keep us posted on your progress.
hon30critter Over50! That is a great layout! Please keep us posted on your progress. Dave
Appreciate the compliment! Thank you. I got started in the hobby in the early 70's and up to now I've been strictly an old school "track nails and DC traditionalist" so to speak.
But with this new (and last) layout I decided to venture into new territory including how to use a digital camera given my $2000 worth of obsolete Minolta SLR 35mm gear, gluing the cork roadbed and track in place vs my old school practice of nailing everything down plus going with DCC (again all new to me).
All said, I do intend on posting periodically as I progress good Lord willing...
Currently there are two GH Products Turnout Improvement Kits available on eBay.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HO-Scale-G-H-Products-Turnout-Improvement-Kit-Atlas-Track-Switch-/320797923411?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item4ab10bd853
hon30critter Currently there are two GH Products Turnout Improvement Kits available on eBay. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HO-Scale-G-H-Products-Turnout-Improvement-Kit-Atlas-Track-Switch-/320797923411?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item4ab10bd853 Dave
Thanks, Dave. I'm good to go now. I took inventory of my stash and found some in a box I packed up for our move to our condo 4 years ago but hadn't opened before now. Plus I bought the (2) you PM'd me about on EBay for $7 including shipping. The Ebay listing you just posted for another Ebay offering was way over priced plus the shipping alone was more than I paid for the two I just bought including shipping.