how do you lay cork roadbed under swiches and curves. i will working on the n scale layout today and for the next 3 weeks. (cork to foam)
robert aldrich
n scale i know and the alco line plus great northern
For curves, same as straight - mark the centerline and lay each half of the cork against the center line.
For turnouts, carry the line of the fivergien route through so it crosses the straight rout. The best way to fit things is overlap the cork and cut through both pieces at the same time, this results int he tightest joints - but it doesn't have to be perfect, once balalsted you won't see any small gaps. Or you can cheat, they make turnout pieces that you cna use instead of cutting the cork to form the intersections.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
As Randy said, laying cork on straights and curves is just about the same. After you have seperated the two halves, just lay the straight edges along the centerline. The one thing I would add is make sure your joints do not match. stagger the ends 3 to 4 inches or more. Also, after it is laid, take a sanding block and lightly sand the surface to take out any roughness on the edges.
For turnouts you can cut them in, make a pad from a cork square available at craft stores or you can buy them, pre-made. I strongly suggest that you paint the roadbed, at least where your turnouts will be, before you lay your track. Use a color as closte to the color of your ballast as you can. This makes it so that when you are ballasting your track you don't need as much under your turnouts, which can cause a problem.
Cork to foam and track to cork can both be done with a very thin layer of inexpensive latex caulk. It is highly recommended that you do not put adhesive under the turnouts. They should be held down sufficiently by the track, then if you ever have a problem with the turnout, it is easier to remove.
Have fun,
thanks watch?v=uGojHZzqk