steinjr Hansel How did you do the drawing? It looks like it came from a piece of software? That question was answered on page 2 of the thread. Quoting: mcfunkeymonkey It's AnyRail. I tried using Xtrak CAD and the Atlas programs but they didn't do it for me. AnyRail is totally worth the $55. Easy to learn to use and set parameters for your layout. Takes care of a lot of thinking for you (if you want it to) so you can focus on the design elements. Buildings you have to build, so I'd get to know the Walthers catalogue pretty well for structure footprints (though you can always scratch/kitbash). The program also doesn't take care of track spacings & clearances, so it's good to know those (http://www.urbaneagle.com/data/RRstddims.html). Smile, Stein
Hansel How did you do the drawing? It looks like it came from a piece of software?
How did you do the drawing? It looks like it came from a piece of software?
That question was answered on page 2 of the thread. Quoting:
mcfunkeymonkey It's AnyRail. I tried using Xtrak CAD and the Atlas programs but they didn't do it for me. AnyRail is totally worth the $55. Easy to learn to use and set parameters for your layout. Takes care of a lot of thinking for you (if you want it to) so you can focus on the design elements. Buildings you have to build, so I'd get to know the Walthers catalogue pretty well for structure footprints (though you can always scratch/kitbash). The program also doesn't take care of track spacings & clearances, so it's good to know those (http://www.urbaneagle.com/data/RRstddims.html).
It's AnyRail. I tried using Xtrak CAD and the Atlas programs but they didn't do it for me.
AnyRail is totally worth the $55. Easy to learn to use and set parameters for your layout. Takes care of a lot of thinking for you (if you want it to) so you can focus on the design elements. Buildings you have to build, so I'd get to know the Walthers catalogue pretty well for structure footprints (though you can always scratch/kitbash). The program also doesn't take care of track spacings & clearances, so it's good to know those (http://www.urbaneagle.com/data/RRstddims.html).
Smile, Stein
Thanks. Just downloaded and tried it out! Very simple to use. I wish my iTunes was that easy. Gonna have to buy the full version now.
I got a smaller dremel cutting disk so I didn't maul my stock rails this time, either, while cutting & isolating the frogs.Hi from Belgium,
Congratulations for your job.
I am very inspired by your track diagram for my Maclau River RR.
But like you I use the Fastrack jig for my turnouts, and after some try with a dremel because of the poor precision of the cut and some rails blessed; I use the Fastrack method to make cut for the frog with the use of a jeweler saw.
Put the finished skeleton of the turnout in a pin vise and cut where Fastrack suggest it wwhit the jeweler saw. It made very thin cut nearly invisible.
Speaking about the skeleton of the turnout, I put two more PC ties on the skeleton.
One more at the outside of the turnout just beside the first one of the three holding the frog ( the one with a three gaps); when you cut the gaps for the frog the two small rails aren't very solid, the second PC tie I solder make a strong fit.
A second just aside the one marked with a "S" on the jig, solder to the frog side.; this one making also a strong solder join for the moving point.
If you don't use the Fastrack laser ties wood base, glue wood ties(Micro Engenering) with diluted white glue on a paper copy of the turnout (see the Fastrack library for a diagram of the turnouts you use and make several copies/ just if you put some more PC ties avoid to glue on their place wood ties).
Cut the wooden ties to the size of the diagram after you have glue them.
Glue the skeleton of the turnout on the wood ties using the printed rail as a guide line, with Pliobond. Don't put to much glue around the points....
When the turnout is painted the paper is invisible; it takes a few minutes to glue the ties on the paper diagram and they are well spaced and cheaper.
You have now a turnout ready to install like a ready to run one!
For the trowbar I have some broken ones because they are so small an drilling a hole in their middle is a little bit tricky, so I use 1/32 HOn3 PC ties for the trowbar (avaible from Fastrack). They are stronger an easier to solder than their N scale counterparts
If you do that you need to move a little the wood ties on the paper diagram, around the trowbar.But when painted it's very difficult to see they are HOn3 ties in the middle of all the Nscale ties.
I will post a few pics in a near future in my " Hard at work" series.
Marc
HanselHow did you do the drawing? It looks like it came from a piece of software?
UPDATE? CAN'T LEAVE US HANGIN'!!!!!!!!!
Next big section of track laid!Built a fixture of two turnouts & a crossing:then a wye & siding almost back to where I started:Had a little monkey help test out the smoothness of the rails:& finally wired the sucker up & tried out ze train:
[I forgot that there was a mic on this digital camera so you get the added bonus of an unintentional, yet totally moving & appropriate, soundtrack]Only had to check for shorts 2-3 times this go!(darn pcb ties!)I got a smaller dremel cutting disk so I didn't maul my stock rails this time, either, while cutting & isolating the frogs.I got a better soldering iron with a slimmer tip & it's made all the difference in building the turnouts!(Since I'm "cranking them out" at between .5 & 1.5 per day, you'll see them in the next posting)Well, time to paint the rails & ties!As always, feedback appreciated (things to keep in mind, different techniques to try, planning order, etc.)Cheers!--Mark
M.C. Fujiwara
My YouTube Channel (How-to's, Layout progress videos)
Silicon Valley Free-moN
IT'S ALIVE!!!After some issues with gaps (or lack of) in the pcboard ties of my facing turnouts, it's all resolved & trains are running!
Or, a train.
(Still working on embedding video into posts, but there's a link)
There's still some shakiness going through the bottom (closer) turnout which I'll troubleshoot in a wee bit.
But you should have seen the sparkle in my son's eye (& dad's ) when he saw the train go (he likes controlling the headlight). Even mom was impressed.
Learned a LOT laying this first small section of track & turnouts. Will type up soon.Thanks for everyone's thoughts & feedback!Truly appreciated!Cheers!--Mark
Hello Mark,
I think you've done a great job.One thing I would watch out for is that you can pull a train out of the yard and onto the mainline or secondary ect. in one piece. If you have an 8 car train and with the loco have to break that up to get it out...
NOT that I'm trying to make anything 'easy' persay, after all this is a switching layout, but I think I think the moves that you should have to make are interesting, not frustrating. ie., a yard would always have room to pull out onto, maybe you'd have to break up a train to fit into, but I don't think you'll have that problem.
As for the sidings and runarounds, I think they look good, but just make sure you're giving yourself enough room to 'runaround' whatever you might leave there for the moment. Do you intend for any of the sidings to be 'long term' hosts of cars, ie. filled, put out by switcher, waiting for road loco to pick up ect... I'm trying to work that kind of thing in with tank cars.
The whole upper section in which the gin factory resides looks a bit like the switching area of my layout in planning. The industrial park complex is always a good way to get a lot in a small space. I like to see this when it's done. Heck, I'd like to see mine done too!! lol
DanZ
I'm sorry, but I just HAVE to jump in at this point!
I wanted to earlier in this thread, but seeing as how I just came across it, I'll have to do it now and try to catch up. Now... First things first-
1) I've used what was called 'wall-board' for a lot of years. It's about 5/8 - 3/4 inch thick, fiberous and not terribly flexible. It's capable of supporting a 4x8 foot layout by being laid directly over the framework. It's carvable with hand tools for any slight variations in altitude, but the main thing it does is replace cork roadbed entirely (if you want it to). After all, have you ever LOOKED at industrial areas? You won't see large accumulations of ballast under the tracks. Most of it is laid at ground level.
2) Solder- I use RadioShack #64-005 Light duty rosin core solder. Thin, easy to use, no messing with external flux and reasonably cheap for the amount you get. Oh, and as for soldering, I use a Weller gas-powered iron. It's small, but powerful enough for building switches, and has a line of interchangeable tips (including a cutting/carving tip for foam!). The heat is adjustable and is supplied via a catalytic converter powered by cigarette lighter butane. This makes it truly portable and 'wireless' :)
3) As far as AnyRail goes, if you have a 7" turntable, why not just create a 7" circle??? It's extremely easy to do.
4) Track buss... use #12 or #14. It's not that expensive, especially if you use #12-2 (2 wires already color-coded, plus ground) from your local home store. Then you could stop worrying about electricity and get on to the train part (yes, that's definitely my favorite part).
I like your layout. It looks like it will be good to run on its own and easy to expand. As far as scratch-building goes, and the question of necessity, it's your choice. There are plenty of N scale buildings that can be used for kitbashing or building directly, then modifying via accessory bits. Or, if you do enjoy scratch-building, take photos of interesting buildings with a digital camera and modify them for size on the computer. Then print them out in N scale and use them either as templates or as photo-"etched" building sides when glued to cardstock or balsa/basswood.
Later,
Jeff
I think you've got a great layout concept here and operation with DCC will be a blessing. However, I would recommend you seriously reconsider operating with a single power district. The reason isn't so much because a single power district couldn't power all you would want to run on this layout, but because when something goes wrong (a short circuit, for example) multiple power districts make troubleshooting ever so much easier. You can find the problem because it will be isolated to only one of your power districts. In addition, you can operate the rest of the layout while you search for the troublespot.
You can use this to figure out where the power districts should be separated. Look where isolation should be provided to allow for continued operation. You may not want to put the whole yard on one district. Divide it in half. You get the idea.
Of course, more power districts will cost you a circuit breaker and/or isolation device of some sort for each, but this doesn't have to be expensive. It can be as simple as an isolation switch and an automobile light bulb suitably chosen to limit the current in the district to a safe level to keep the whole thing from shutting down. These wiring techniques can be researched in any good basic book about DCC, and it's very simple to do.
Great job!
After spending a bit of time making & figuring out how to install & operate turnouts, I'm getting ready to lay some track & get a wee-bit of movement on the layout!My main motivation: the wife & kids come back on Thursday so:1. I have to have all messy stuff done & cleaned up by then (that includes the entire apartment, the two cars, bathrooms, etc.)2. I want to have at least a small section operationable.If people come home & see only a large construction project:
mcfunkeymonkeyIf they came back right now, they'd find this:
If they came back right now, they'd find this:
Wow - that is some _nice_ progress (and also very nice turnouts) there !
Smile,Stein
Have you been working 24h / day on your layout, Mark? Your progress is amazing!
Cheers,
Summer School is over (as of 1:30 today), so I have one week before the family gets back from Japan.If they came back right now, they'd find this:
Been spending most of the last week building turnouts & developing solder skills (see workbench).(The paint can is holding down a section of foam that wasn't attached so well, so I squirted a bit of caulk under it & squish!)
But since I need to have the messy stuff done before the fam gets back, I started carving out the harbour, & marking up the fascia for cutting. I'll be carving out the lowered road in the "L" of layout soon (that's why the fascia is removed). That small middle panel will be cut later to match the drop from topleft to bottom right.
Also will build the detachable staging tracks (both ends) so I can drill the peg holes & match everything up.
Basically, I'm trying to make 2 turnouts a day. Practiced with an early attempt on my test foam module:
But that's another thread.
So I have seven days to see how much I can get done on the this thing!My goal is to have at least a short section of track laid & wired up so my kids (& the ceo of the D&BS) can see some "results". At the same time, I do not want slipshod track. Thus, the test diorama.
Of course, some of that time will be devoted to CLEANING UP the apt. before everyone gets back, so let the sawdust, foam & vapours fly now!
Will update this weekend.Cheers!--Mark
Mark,
thanks for sharing your enthusiasm - I can really feel how much fun your having.
It just came to my mind - have thought of using a micro-flame torch instead of a soldering iron? I get much better results when I solder my feeder wires to the rail, using a torch. I hate these big blobs of solder...
And then there were two!
The latest (#2) is on the top.Definately felt more comfortable making it.Also got the points to "default" diverging (which is, I think, the way it's supposed to: less stress, right?)Still having solder issues & I think it might be the flux I use.Radio Shack's "Non-Spill Paste Rosin Soldering Flux".It doesn't really flow very well kind of glumpy applying.Is there any non-acid flux that flows a bit better?
The good news is that trucks roll smoothly through both, so at least that's happening.More practice tomorrow!Cheers!--Mark
congrats on your first turnout!
I wish I could do that, but soldering is not my cup of tea - I am just able to tack feeder wires to the rail...
Thanks, Lee!I'm trying a right-handed turnout tonight with the longer, thinner soldering iron point.Then I'll try building two turnouts off a single rail.
Good luck on yr yard! Guess that's the only time you DO want a frog in your throat!
Cheers!--Mark
Good work! One of these days I'm going to have to get one of those jigs so I can rebuild my yard throat... I'm really enjoying this thread.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
It's not pretty, but it's mine!My first turnout:
It works!I just got a more extended-point soldering tip, which should help make cleaner connections.
Only 35+ more to go!
I laid out all the track, using fasttrack #4.5 templates in place of the actual turnouts that I'll start building tomorrow when the jig comes in the mail(with 35+ turnouts on this layout, & the fact that I'm a newbie, it just makes sense to use a jig. I'll make my own / start spiking as I gain more experience).
Started laying down cork roadbed for the "double main" until I realized, um, wait do I really need it?Its urban. This is not a mainline through a city. Do I really want to deal with all the ups & downs to yards & sidings, as well as the extra up for when city streets go over it? Why do I need it? Seems like I was using it because I've always used it in all my projects since a kid.
So I ripped it out.
Thank goodness for caulk! It just pulled up, with a wee bit of foam scarring where I was to vigorous in my pulling, but nothing I can't lay track right over again.
You can see some here, in the middle:
It was sad to rip up the only section of operational track (16" on far right side of layout: see previous video links), but I'd rather do the layout right.
I also decided to get rid of the double crossover on the far left where the main routes leave to the D&BS mainline / removable staging that I'll be building this week. I didn't see how it was necessary for operations, & building & wiring looked a bit daunting. A single crossover (2 turnouts) works fine when I imagineered operations. Unless I'm overlooking something (very good possibility).
I also punched a big hole in my layout:
I used a long, non-serated bread knife around the Atlas turntable: I wanted to keep the cut-out circle as close to original as possible to use later when shaping the concrete pit walls.I had foolishly caulked down the pink foam everywhere, not thinking ahead & putting no caulk under the area where the TT was going to go.So I hacked out the rectangle space for the motor, then slid a bendy putty knife under the circle.Then I pulled up. POP!
Out came the foam intact! Then I drilled some holes around the parimeter of the 1/2" ply underneath it & used a jigsaw to cut it out.
I had a 5" x 12" piece of plywood I was going to use as the base below, held up by bolts like Mr. Beasley showed in his photo essay.(You can see the holes I drilled)But that was too close to the TT & track, so I'll do it right & put a 12" x 12" piece under after I cut it tomorrow.
So, as soon as the jig is up, I'm in the tracklaying business! I was going to lay the track & turnouts, then spray the tracks a dark grey or black (wipe tops of course), & then laytex paint the rest of the pinkland a greyish brown.
Also, once the track is pretty much set, I can cut out the space for the harbor on the left & fuel station / road in the middle/right.
Let's hope things "turnout" tomorrow!Cheers!--Mark
Ah, attaboy!
I know what you mean - building a layout, even if it is not a room filling affair, is quite some task - needs to be well organized.
But I am so glad you will change that TT into something nicer! I wish I could start with my project, but as long as funding is not secured, the "government" ban is still in place...
Have a good day (night?)
Thanks, Ulrich! I appreciate all yr feedback & look forward to seeing yr switching layout progress as well!
As for the turntable, I shall quote myself:"Plus, ever since seeing misterbeasley's TT projecthttp://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/99558.aspx?PageIndex=1been itching to do something like that meself."Been looking around at more urban turntables & engine service areas, especially 1920s-late40s.Will do something pit with the TT, so later will cut out & drop. Right now setting the space.
So many projects! Part of the job is organizings the tasks & then getting them done with all the distractions of other projects around!
Thanks again for yr feedback!
... I like your layout a lot and it is a great pleasure to participate in the "Making of... " in this forum.
Only this roundtable of yours -- must it really? .... or can it be replaced by something more realistic?
Been laying out flextrack & turnout templates on the foam.Yesterday played with the yard, & realized it was 4" too far over to the right (which lost 1 car length on the yard lead).
Today shifted things around & layed out rest of turnouts, so now have a groovy idea how it'll all work.There's some shifting (& there probably will be more) but its nice to see "real" track getting down rather than a CAD drawing.
The TT will be lowered & pitted, eventually. Not all track is laid out cause I ran out, but all only "straight" sidings & runarounds are missing right now, so the flex is put to good use.
Hmmm... a wee bit fuzzy.Here's a video overview:http://s637.photobucket.com/albums/uu99/mclitton/?action=view¤t=MOV05123.flv(still working on embedding videos)I gotta say: I love t-pins & foam!Can play around, test out different set-ups, & know there's a bit of wiggle room (especially using caulk).Much more fun than the nails in the plywood mock-ups Dad & I were doing 15-20 years ago.
Next step: make some turnouts (#4.5, mostly) & see how they fit, then it's on to cork & yardage!Also need to carve out the harbour & lowered road, but want the track to fit fab before carving.AnyRail is groovy, but having the actual track down & physical is great!Will be working hard to have smooth rail joinings.Any advice appreciated!Cheers!--Mark
First of all there monkey, you have an interesting layout developing! I look forward to following your progress!
mcfunkeymonkey. . . . . . . . . . Would making the bus wires a larger gauge (18, 14?) help . . . . . . . . . .
Ohm's Law states that P=E2/R . . . . . . that is the power in a circuit is equal to the voltage applied squared divided by the resistance in the circuit . . . . . in your case that's your buss wire. The longer the buss wire the the higher the resistance and consequently the lower the power is going to be. Since your voltage applied is fixed the only way you are going to get required power is to lower the resistance and that is done by using a heavier gauge wire. Using too small a gauge wire is called FIRE!!!!! This is the reason building codes mandate a certain gauge wire for wiring busses and it is also the reason they frown upon multiple outlets plugged into wall jacks.
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
First track laid!Finally got a wee bit o' roadbed & track down & feeders connected up to the bus.The D&BS RR is in operation!(at least for a couple hundred scale feet, for now).Here's some photos & a video (if I can figure how to post it):
(I got vinyl connectors for the backboard, & they all fit & painted same, except for back left corner, which sticks & so needs some sanding, & is of course the most visible. But backdrop foundation is done! & will be painted more detailed soon)
There's me work train. If I were hand-spiking, it'd carry me nails.As is, it's having hard time haulin' me caulk.
& here's a video of the overall, with worktrain in action:http://s637.photobucket.com/albums/uu99/mclitton/?action=view¤t=MOV05106.flv(can't seem to figure how to post/embed a video in the forum yet. will work on it!)
Been grappling with where to start with transfering the design to the foam & how to lay track.I've been playing around with flextrack & fasttracks turnout templates (which I will be building) on the foam.
It seems that the yard & other major turnout structures will dictate the track positioning (as opposed to laying track & trying to get the turnouts to conform), so I'll have to wait a bit to layout everything.
But this one section is sure, & fast, & is the first dcc train I got running.Nice to know everything works, & can concentrate on laying track.Looking forward to handlaying the turnouts too.Cheers!--Mark