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Power hookup

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Power hookup
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 12:31 AM
I am building a small layout with about 50 feet of track. It runs in a loop, but the ends are insulated from each other (between the ends is a reversing loop section at a crossover). I am using the Atlas DCC system with the 3 Amp "Generator." I hooked up the leads to one end of the track for testing purposes, and it seemed that my engine lost a bit of power by the time it got to the other side. Am I imagining this? Or should I hook up leads to both ends? Or is there something else I should do that you guys know and I don't?
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: San Jose, California
  • 3,154 posts
Posted by nfmisso on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 7:19 AM
Your not imagining things. For HO it is recommended that you run a 12 guage wire bus all around the layout, and connect to the track every three to six feet with no more than 10" of 20 guage wire. You will need a seperate bus for your reversing loop.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Midtown Sacramento
  • 3,340 posts
Posted by Jetrock on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 11:08 AM
Indeed, a common mistake is using one pair of power leads for a layout. The metal track we use has resistance, and the longer the track run, the more resistance it will encounter. My layout is only six feet long but I use four power leads to keep things running--one on each end and two in the middle, and I'm only using DC! With DCC you definitely want good power leads to ensure the DCC signals get through intact.
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Along the Murphy Branch
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Posted by dave9999 on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 1:57 PM
Exactly right, without feeders not only will the locos slow down and run rough, they sometimes will not recieve the DCC signal. Important if you need to stop in a hurry. Dave
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 3:09 PM
Absolutely correct, you must have several power points on your track for optimum train operation. Just make sure that all are connected in the same polarity.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 5:24 PM
One more question. DCC systems put AC current to the track, right? If I hook up Atlas switch machings to it, will they work? And should I connect the to the power supply or to the lead to the track from the Commander?
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Michigan
  • 227 posts
Posted by SteelMonsters on Wednesday, February 11, 2004 12:57 AM
I wouldn't use the same power supply for trains for anything else. An atlas twin coil switch machine will draw 3.75 amps at 15 volts. Not only will it make your trains shutter, it will cause your booster to shut off.

I use a 250 watt computer power supply for my lights and accessories. It has a number of wires but they are color coded to ground, +12, +5, +3.3, -5, and -12 DC volts. That gives enough power for tortiouses and atlas twin coil switch machines. It cost me $20. I seperated the different voltages and connected them to a terminal strip. The hardest part isn't very hard at all. To turn the power supply on, simply connect the green wire to a ground wire (black). I personally do this with a key switch on my control panel for easy access. If the power supply is shorted, you'll need to unground and then reground the green wire.

I use 12 volt DC for my atlas turnouts because it gives off 36 watts of heat rather than 18vac's 81 watts. They work with a 9 volt battery so enough power at 12 volts isn't a concern. A tortious gives off slightly less than a 1/4 of a watt of heat when stalled with 12 volts applyed.
-Marc
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Omaha, NE
  • 10,621 posts
Posted by dehusman on Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:08 AM
If you are using DCC then its simple. Run a pair of heavy gauge wires (12-14) around under the layout (as a "bus") About every 3-6 feet solder a smaller piece of wire (18-22 gauge) to the rails of each track and then down to the bus wires. The wire will have way less voltage drop than the rails and you won't have to worry about a loose rail joiners breaking the electrical circuit.

Dave H.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

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