I have recently purchased several Code 80 #6 Atlas custom turnouts and I noticed something on the first one I opened. The throw bar feels horribly cheap. I mean this thing does not feel like it will hold together at all. I thought it was just something wrong with it, so I opened a second one, same thing. I have a couple of pictures below showing how loose they are. Is this normal for these turnouts? If so do Peco's insulfrogs have a more solid feel (even if you take the spring out)? I am either going to use humpyard manual throws or tortoise switch machines (still have not decided). But I cannot image using these things with either one, they are horrible. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.
gcri wrote: I have recently purchased several Code 80 #6 Atlas custom turnouts and I noticed something on the first one I opened. The throw bar feels horribly cheap. I mean this thing does not feel like it will hold together at all. I thought it was just something wrong with it, so I opened a second one, same thing. I have a couple of pictures below showing how loose they are. Is this normal for these turnouts? If so do Peco's insulfrogs have a more solid feel (even if you take the spring out)? I am either going to use humpyard manual throws or tortoise switch machines (still have not decided). But I cannot image using these things with either one, they are horrible. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.
I use Atlas custom line turnouts with no issues. I use Tortoises to actuate them. From what I have heard Pecos are a bit more sturdy but cost more and I believe with Tortoises folks take the springs out. The biggest knock on Atlas switches is often the big black frog. Many folks don't like them.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
There is considerable play but they do hold up well. I think Atlas knows some of us are not perfect so they leave a little play for adjustment in the throw mechanism. I have Atlas in my yard using Caboose Industries ground throws and they run well. They do need a bit of sanding to take out some of the imperfections as my switcher bounces around a bit. Also, I catch the frog at times so I will be adding shims to the guardrail opposite the frogs to remidy.
Pecos are very nice looking and the spring creates a solid throw, but I did remove them so I could use tortoise in those areas not easily reached. I have nine set up this way. Its a very simple proccess on the newer Pecos but the old units have to be dug out, and this put some of the turnouts at risk. I damaged one removing the spring, but It was installed and I could not get to it easily.
John
While it may make it harder to ballast, I always thought the "extra play" was on purpose so the turnout could be attached to any manner of actuators and yet not bind, or fail to complete the swithing of the tracks, not necessarily shoddy workmanship. Once you set it and align it, it should be fine for your application.
However: I have been known to the state of California to be wrong before, and will problably be wrong again. There are no express or implied warrantees, and I do not, wholy or in part in an way, shape or form represent the maufacturer or any of its partners, subsidiaries, or sub-contractors. I recieve no remuneration from any named or unamed parties herein, herewith, hereall, heretofore or hereafter. I do not use any electrical appliances in, on, or near water, as results may be less than desireable.
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
The picture does not show it that well, but another problem I did not really notice until today was the gap in the point rails and stock rails is extremely small. I was looking at a couple of Atlas turnouts a friend of mine has (just standard, not custom line) and the gap is much larger (which is a good thing). I think I am going to give up and just go with Atlas remote turnouts with a CDU to keep them from frying the turnout motors and be done with it. I know they are ugly and unrealistic, but they are a whole lot easier to hook up and I want to make progress on my layout. I can always go back and replace them one at a time later.
I am also using Atlas turnouts... the main reason is the price.... on a limited budget for my layout I can't afford to dot he Peco Turnouts... Infact for a while everything will be hand switched until I can afford to do Tortoises through out with close to 50 turnouts....
My question however is short... I know too late... for those who also have use Atlas, have found it necessary to power the frog via underneath? Per the wiring for DCC website this is recommended, however this seems like a major pain... If I do it, I want to do it now while I am putting them down....
Thanks
Ryan
The slop you noticed in the throw bar, vs the Peco, is normal as others have mentioned. It doesn't seem to bother anything. There are a couple of things I did see in my recent use of the Custom line turnouts that I think you have to be careful with.
The recent ones I purchased were new in the pack, but there were at least three different "versions". The point rails on one were flat spade shaped, on another the point rail had half a rail base and was much thicker, and still another did not have a notch in the stock rail for the point rail to recess into. I guess I tend to use too much glue during ballasting and this has apparently got into the electrical connection to the movable point rails causing them to go dead. I fixed a few, but had to replace two turnouts so far. I now cover the small electrical connection plate with tape before ballasting and carefully watch the amount of glue that I use in that area.
I'm using mini slide switches for the turnouts that are within reach and that has worked out fine. Powering the frog is not necessary so I just use the slide switch to hold the points against their stock rails.
regross99 wrote:I am also using Atlas turnouts... the main reason is the price.... on a limited budget for my layout I can't afford to dot he Peco Turnouts... Infact for a while everything will be hand switched until I can afford to do Tortoises through out with close to 50 turnouts.... My question however is short... I know too late... for those who also have use Atlas, have found it necessary to power the frog via underneath? Per the wiring for DCC website this is recommended, however this seems like a major pain... If I do it, I want to do it now while I am putting them down.... ThanksRyan
I am still building, and using Atlas turnouts and motors. To keep costs down I'll probably keep using pushbuttons for activation.
So far, I haven't needed to power the No 6 frogs, but I have attached a thin strip of shim stock to each frog with a tiny nut and bolt in case I find it needs power later. My reason for doing this is that I am restoring a couple of older items (a Varney F3 and a Budd RDC) from the '50s that may have trouble with the No 6 frogs. I may decide to modify them for all-wheel pickup to avoid the frog issue, if that turns out to be easier than powering the frogs.
Here is a picture of the problem with gap in the point rails I was speaking of earlier. The one on the left is an Atlas standard turnout, the one on the right is one of the custom turnouts I am having problems with. This might be normal for Atlas custom turnouts, but I still think it is more cheap construction than Atlas looking out for our imperfections. They could put a little less slack in the bar and it still have enough play to work with but still make it feel more solid. But I guess you get what you pay for. I will go with the remote turnouts with (unrealistic) electric throws for now since they look to be made a little better than these.
Looks like the points on the right switch are not seating fully against the right stock rail. Check for any obstruction between the two rails. It's not unusual to have to bend/adjust/file the point rail so it sets more into the indent of the stock rail.
I don't think the normal slop in the throw bar has much to do with it. Also "eyeball" down the length of the whole turnout to see if the turnout is straight, if not, a little careful encouragement can usually put it straight.
Chartiers wrote: Looks like the points on the right switch are not seating fully against the right stock rail.
Looks like the points on the right switch are not seating fully against the right stock rail.
...and neither on that turnout are sharp enough to prevent the odd slightly wide of gauge wheel set from picking the points.
First, place a spare tie on its edge behind an open point rail, between the point and the stock rail. Then, using a fine metal file, a needle file with a flat side, sharpen the points until they are very sharp. Remove the tie holding the point rail away from its stock rail, and then gently bend the very tip about two or three degrees, no more, toward the stock rail. Check to see that when the throwbar is all the way over the point lies flat and flush against the stock rail for a distance not less than 1/2". Try a train through there to check on your progress.
caellis wrote:Yeah, the Atlas turnout bars do have a lot of slop in them. So what? I have over 50 of them installed for years with plenty of use and have had ZERO problems. I use Tortoise machines on all of them.
Same here. I have over 50, with Tortoises, and have had minimal problems. I had one I messed up when installing. I ended up replacing it but otherwise, they've been rock solid.