Foam-Top Benchwork and Under-Table Switch Machines

[krdorsey]

I am (re)building a tabletop HO layout which was originally built using 1/2-inch plywood. I'm using 2-inch foam insulation on the new layout to decrease weight (and increase the size of the layout, yeah!). I plan to use Tortoise switch motors, or something similar. The problem is most of what I've read says the maximum table thickness is 1 inch. I am planning to carve out a 1-inch deep recess on the bottom side of the benchwork to accomodate the switch motor.

I'd like to know if anyone can reccomend alternate methods which allow the motor to be operated reliably with a longer actuating wire, which would not require recessing the motor.

Thanks,

[michaelstevens]

I've often resisted asking this question;
What is so wrong with visible switch motors ? -- you save all of those "access for maintenance and trouble shooting" problems.
Furthermore, the prototype has its (electric or air) switch motors, switch heaters etc. systems out there on top of the ballast !

Enjoy and Happy Xmas.

[der5997]

I think the Tortoise machine would be a bit big for a 1" carved hole wouldn't it? (I am spaeking from memory only, I haven't actually used them, just seen them under a club layout.) As far as memory serves, which is less far every year [:D] the club used a fairly long wire to actuate the turnout. The wire would have to be stiff enough to carry the force without bending beforethe turnout was thrown. Not too difficult to achieve, I would think.

michaelstevens: Probably a matter of scale. What would the tortoise machine represent, above grade? It's the same with those 30 scale foot switch machines along side an Atlas or similar turnout. What are they in "real" life?

[krdorsey]

michaelstevens,

Yeah, the true track version of my layout obviously used the 'above-the-ballast' switch machines, but as der5997 points these things are huge compared to anything in use on the prototype. I agree, abopve the table would be easier to maintain, if there were something close to scale out there.

der5997,

Thanks for the confirmation. I thought that stiffer wires might be the way to go, but I hadn't actually read anything that took this approach. I'll experiment with wire sizes to get it optimized. As for my one-inch, I was talking about the depth of the recess below the table that would be required in order to reduce to overall length of the throw wire . The width or circumference of the recessed area would be sized to accomodate whatever mounting area is required. Using stiffer wire, per your suggestion is obviously less labor intensive and probably easier to maintain.

Thanks again!

kd

[nfmisso]

kd;

Glue a piece of plywood, mdf, etc on the bottom of the foam to mount your Tortise to, as there is not a good way to attach them directly to the foam. 3/16 luan plywood is great for this. Liquid Nails for projects is an adhesive that will not come loose.

[BR60103]

Have you thought about using 1" or 1/2" foam? that might work for the roadbed and you could use the thicker stuff for scenery. The 1" is a lot easier to cut with a knife and the 1/2" cuts with a normal X-acto blade in about 4 strokes.
I think the Tortoise instructions have a note about stiffer wire.

[Javern]

i glue a piece of luan to the underside of the foam, mount the switch and i bought some longer piano wire and it works fine for my 2" foam

[krdorsey]

nfmisso, Javern,

Thanks for the great tip! With my primary focus being on how to handle the depth of the foam tabletop, I hadn't given much thought to how to physically attach the Tortise. The luan plate is a great approach and adds little weight.

Thanks again.

kd