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Ripped Plywood vs. Dimensional Lumber for Benchwork?
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[quote user="fwright"] <P>[quote user="tstage"]I agree with Chip and Alan. The plywood will be more stable over time than the dimensional lumber because of the cross-hatching of the plies.<BR><BR>I used straight 1 x 3s on my 4 x 8 layout. Even with a foam top the 8' long side rails have drooped slightly in the middle in 2+ years so that my yard area isn't completely level.<BR><BR>If I were to use dimensional wood again, I would definitely make <I>two</I> 4 x 4 frames then bolt them together to minimize the sagging. I'd also include another support in the middle of the table.<BR><BR>Tom<BR>[/quote]</P> <P>Tom</P> <P>I won't disagree with the plywood's stability compared to lumber. I've never tried the ripped plywood method.</P> <P>However, neither a 3/4x3 plywood strip nor a 1x3 piece of lumber can support an 8ft span without some sagging over time. One of the benefits of the L-girder (or I beams or other girders) system is increasing the supportable span with a very modest increase in lumber used. One of Westcott's goals with the L-girder system was to get rid of the multitude of legs required in conventional box frame construction to prevent the sagging you cite. The chart of supportable spans by lumber dimensions in Westcott's benchwork books by itself justifies the book's purchase. I refer to the table all the time when planning my benchwork.</P> <P>I have built two 4x8 tables with unpainted 1x4 L-girders (with 1x2 flanges) that have lasted decades through numerous moves and climate changes (and even garage flooding!) without sagging or warping. In one case, I successfully turned the L-girder flange down and installed the joists between the L-girders to reduce benchwork thickness.</P> <P>my thoughts, your choices</P> <P>Fred W</P> <P>[/quote]</P> <P>The L-girder is very strong. What I did was most of a torsion box design (no bottom skin on mine). I did use three legs in my layout so that no wide lower level section ran over 4' without some support (wall or leg). My upper town is 2' x 6.5' and is supported only on one long side and both ends. I did firmly attach a 1/2" ply top surface. It does not sag and I would expect it to still be level when my daughter has an estate sale (hopefully many years from now).</P> <P>My background is building furniture and kitchen remodel work and I simply use "good" woodworking construction methods and materials for my bench work. Some examples (for reference only) are at"</P> <P><A href="http://www.calanb.com/kitchens1.html">http://www.calanb.com/kitchens1.html</A></P> <P>I retired from kitchen work in June of this year and got back into HO trains then (after a 13 year absence).</P> <P> </P>
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