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Folding Layout

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Folding Layout
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 24, 2003 5:19 AM
I`m getting ready to build a layout in the basement , However the boss[wife] suggestes that it able to fold against the wall. I1m trying to build a 4by14 but am in brainlock as to how to make it fold against the wall. Any help would be great
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 24, 2003 5:40 AM
Try using a few door hinges. Fix a piece of timber to the wall, fix the hinges to it, then fix the layout to the hinges. 14 foot seems a bit long to have as a single board, so consider jointing it as 2 five foot and 1 four foot sections. This will make folding it up or down easier! You'll also need some kind out legs to help support the outer edge of the layout - they can either rest on the floor or brace against the wall.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 24, 2003 8:36 AM
4 feet is really deep for a layout against the wall. You probably will not be able to reach to the back for rerailing, or especially working on the layout. You might want to try a "dogbone" type, where the only wide parts are for the return loops at each end.

Andrew
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Midtown Sacramento
  • 3,340 posts
Posted by Jetrock on Monday, November 24, 2003 10:13 AM
The main problem with a folding layout is ensuring that everything that is part of the layout (scenery, buildings, etc.) is both able to fit into the fold-up and is adequately attached to the layout! Any rolling stock inadvertently left on the track will undergo a disaster.

One track plan you might look at is the "Murphy Bed & Credenza" in John Armstrong's "Creative Layout Design" by Kalmbach--it's a 4x8 foot plan that folds upward like a Murphy bed, with a "credenza" shelf layout on one side that fits snugly against the wall. This allows one to "park" one's trains off the folding section of the layout rather than having to clear them off by hand after every operating session.

What you might consider in your space is two fold-up 4x4 sections with a six-foot wide shelf 1 or 2 feet deep in the middle--a "dog bone" type arrangement that will allow you to make the layout hideable but still have a section for storage. Another plus would be that every part of the layout will be reachable.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, November 25, 2003 5:18 AM
Hi,

I saw a brief article about the "Murphy Bed & Credenza" type of bed, but I can't find John Armstrong's "Creative Layout Design" book anywhere. I saw the article last night, and my financial director - wife - is sold on this idea, as keeps the spare room still looking like a room. Going to build it in N-scale - 1m wide, by 2.3 long.

Does anyone have the plan online? If so, please can you tell me where. The book is not avalable here in South Africa.

Thanks

Evan
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • 31 posts
Posted by lrfogle on Wednesday, December 3, 2003 11:53 AM
Hi Evan,

Give me an e-mail shout at foglelr@mddc.com. I might be able to help you out as my first railroads were fold-up affairs.

Larry
  • Member since
    January 2002
  • 1,132 posts
Posted by jrbarney on Wednesday, December 3, 2003 12:14 PM
Rick,
If you hinge along the 8 foot rather than the 4 foot dimension, using plywood side struts similar to John Armstrong's design on the Murphy Bed and Credenza, but making the side struts 18 inches to 2 feet longer than the 4 foot side you should be able to have access at the wall side of the layout. That would move the pivot point further from the wall. I haven't done that myself, but think it might work. Might need additional drop down legs for more stability.
Bob
"Time flies like an arrow - fruit flies like a banana." "In wine there is wisdom. In beer there is strength. In water there is bacteria." --German proverb

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