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Inclines with foam base

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  • Member since
    April 2003
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Inclines with foam base
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 14, 2003 11:05 PM
I am planning to use a foam base on my new layout, and I'm hoping someone can explain how I create the incline (about 1%). When I have used risors, I was able to manage with a level, however with the foam base, I don't think a level will work. Thank you in advance.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 14, 2003 11:08 PM
You could do a modified riser situation. Put a 1/8 inch masonite strip on the base board beneath the foam, then 1/4 inch, etc. The 1% grade should rise 1" per 100", so it would rise an 1/8" in 12 inches or so. So just put supports that far apart in 1'8 increments.

Hope I understand your problem.....if not, well never mind!
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, October 15, 2003 7:25 AM
If you want to create a grade, you can use Woodland Scenics foam risers - I believe they are available in 1% and 2% rise (?). You can also cut your own from blue or pink foam (probably the same as you are using for your base). Get or make a hot wire cutter, and you'll have custom cut grades in no time.

Andrew
  • Member since
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  • From: NE Ohio
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Posted by jwfoise on Wednesday, October 15, 2003 8:11 AM
On my layout I just cut the foam on three sides and used scrap pieces of foam to act as supports under it, creating the incline. Kind of like this:

--------------------|
--------------------|

I even did it on a curve, no problem. It all get covered after with scenery, so you can't tell anything. It worked great.
  • Member since
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  • From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
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Posted by der5997 on Saturday, October 18, 2003 12:16 PM
jwfoise: By cut on three sides do you mean cut out a strip leaving one end attaced to the main foam board, then bend the strip up to form the grade? That's what I was figuring on doing for my shelf layout that has to have two grades, one up and the other down on the same shelf. I thought that way industry spurs and small yards could come off the main on the level at whatever place on the grade they are needed.[8D]

"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.

  • Member since
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  • From: NE Ohio
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Posted by jwfoise on Monday, October 20, 2003 2:01 PM
Yes that is exactly what I mean. People have done this with plywood too. You'll end up with a gap (a space below the raised part). If you want an embankment, you can use some sort of plastering scenery technique to make slopes. My layout is an urban setting, so I made vertical walls. In Cleveland there is a prototype example of a line like this on our local rapid-transit system (those who know Cleveland, on the Waterfront line in the Flats where it turns towards the Brown's stadium). I even used scrap foam board as my supports under the raised part.

The only problem with this is if you want to have something below the raised section, such as a hidden track. You won't have foam under there to put the track on. There is one section where I ran into this problem. I used the foam ramp for the rise to the upper deck, but made the upper deck out of a completely separate piece, so my original foam was still on the lower part. I made the upper deck out of a thin piece of plywood - you could use another piece of foam, but its much thicker, and so you don't have as much clearance under it.
  • Member since
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  • From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
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Posted by der5997 on Tuesday, October 21, 2003 8:27 PM
I'm building my layout with a 1/2 inch plywood base on which the foam board is glued. That way there's always something under the foam. I like the idea of using foam risers. I also need the plywood to attach firmly to the backets that support my shelf type layout around the walls. I've re-thought the way the two "tongues" will work, thanks to this topic. Great to be able to bounce ideas around. Hope johncb doesn't mind my usurping his space a bit. [:D]

"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.

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