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Turntable Questions
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I built Walthers turntable kit 933-3171 (use this number to find it on their web page). I had a feeling from the start that "you get what you pay for", but this kit looked good and fit my budget. You will notice that most of the other turntables cost a lot more. <br /> <br />The kit includes the bridge and pit. I changed a couple of things on the kit. First I used code 70 rail. Second I changed the two ring rail electical pickup to a split ring. I replaced the long steel shaft used to transmit the motor motion to the turntable with a piece of piano wire of the same diameter. If this shaft bends then the gears bind. I also added as much lead weight to the bridge as possible. When I first built the kit I did not have the pit mounted on my layout, the pit is a large plastic bowl and had a slight warp to it. Nothing that you could see but when the bridge was turned it would bind at one point. I found I could minimize the warp by twisting the pit slightly. The trick would be to mount the pit with the slight twist. As it turned out, I was able to get the pit mounted correctly and it works well. (I think I got lucky) I would not recommend this kit for those that want something to work the first time and do not have skills to figure out how to fix it. (I'm a professional engineer and love to tinker) I will say that the motorizing kit Walthers sells as Part # 933-1050 is completly different from the one that came with my kit. I hope that this is a new improvement, as it looks to eliminate the long steel shaft. Anyone else have experience with this kit? <br /> <br />When I wired the motor, I used a spare power pack and used the speed control to control the bridge speed. It was difficult to stop the bridge so the rails were aligned. I improved the control by using half wave power and a large resistor. The "new" motorized version maybe better. <br /> <br />I've been happy with this kit and it has worked well for me. Just remember "You get what you pay for." <br /> <br />Steve
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