connecting code 83 w/ 100

[daniel1967]

Getting ready to lay new track... I have decided to use the more durable (and higher clearance) atlas code 100 flextrack all-round [:D]while using walthers code 83 turnouts, slips, bridge track, etc... [8D]Any suggestions on the best way to achieve smooth transitions[?]

dan, 'workin' on the track gang'

[daniel1967]

Getting ready to lay new track... I have decided to use the more durable (and higher clearance) atlas code 100 flextrack all-round [:D]while using walthers code 83 turnouts, slips, bridge track, etc... [8D]Any suggestions on the best way to achieve smooth transitions[?]

dan, 'workin' on the track gang'

[Anonymous]

I would recomend you not do this, it will not look right. Anyway, you have to bend rail joiners and shim the 83 track and when you get it alinged on the tops and inside solder it well. Then true it up with a small file. Good luck. fred

[Anonymous]

I would recomend you not do this, it will not look right. Anyway, you have to bend rail joiners and shim the 83 track and when you get it alinged on the tops and inside solder it well. Then true it up with a small file. Good luck. fred

[Javern]

you can buy transition track or transition rail joiners at Walthers, or you can solder them together and file it smooth, or use shims.

[Javern]

you can buy transition track or transition rail joiners at Walthers, or you can solder them together and file it smooth, or use shims.

[IRONROOSTER]

Actually you are using the code 83 for the most critical / likely to have a problem parts. I'd suggest using Shinohara code 100 for the turnouts, slips, etc. and save the numerous rail transitions you would otherwise have to make(may still have to shim if the ties are different heights).
Enjoy
Paul

[IRONROOSTER]

Actually you are using the code 83 for the most critical / likely to have a problem parts. I'd suggest using Shinohara code 100 for the turnouts, slips, etc. and save the numerous rail transitions you would otherwise have to make(may still have to shim if the ties are different heights).
Enjoy
Paul

[dknelson]

I have the Walthers transition track (it is about 4 or 5 inches long) and it is very plausible looking. There are other ways to do it, such as cutting the Code 100 down to the lower web and soldering the 83 on top of that, while perhaps having to file down the joint for smoothness. Another way is to flatten the Code 100 rail joiner and solder the code 83 on top of that.
As far as it not looking right, well it is true Code 100 represents the very largest rail ever used in the USA so in that sense it never "looks right." However it is very common on the prototype to see two sizes of rail joined -- there are special fish plates for just that purpose. One place I see it alot is at crossings which have been recently improved -- they plan for heavier rail and use it at the crossing even if the main it self is still smaller rail.
Dave Nelson

[dknelson]

I have the Walthers transition track (it is about 4 or 5 inches long) and it is very plausible looking. There are other ways to do it, such as cutting the Code 100 down to the lower web and soldering the 83 on top of that, while perhaps having to file down the joint for smoothness. Another way is to flatten the Code 100 rail joiner and solder the code 83 on top of that.
As far as it not looking right, well it is true Code 100 represents the very largest rail ever used in the USA so in that sense it never "looks right." However it is very common on the prototype to see two sizes of rail joined -- there are special fish plates for just that purpose. One place I see it alot is at crossings which have been recently improved -- they plan for heavier rail and use it at the crossing even if the main it self is still smaller rail.
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

What won't look right is switching to smaller track at every turnouts, slips, bridge track, etc... , and then right back to code 100.... not the code 100.

[Anonymous]

What won't look right is switching to smaller track at every turnouts, slips, bridge track, etc... , and then right back to code 100.... not the code 100.

[dknelson]

Oh I see your point Flee, you are right to switch to Code 100 on that basis would look odd. Sorry I did not grasp your point the first time.
Dave Nelson

[dknelson]

Oh I see your point Flee, you are right to switch to Code 100 on that basis would look odd. Sorry I did not grasp your point the first time.
Dave Nelson

[Sperandeo]

Leaving aside the question of whether it's the right thing to do, here's an easy way to join code 83 to code 100 rail (or any two odd sizes of rail):

1. Slip a rail joiner for the larger size rail halfway onto the end ot the larger rail.

2. Use flat-nose pliers to squeeze the open end of the rail joiner flat.

3. Solder the rail joiner to the larger rail, and tin the flattened end of the rail joiner.

4. Test the fit of the smaller rail with its base resting on the flattened end of the rail joiner. File the flattened end of the rail joiner and/or the base of the smaller rail until the two rail head heights match when the base of the smaller rail is resting on the flattened joiner.

5. Tin the underside of the base of the smaller rail.

6. Solder the smaller rail on top of the flattened joiner, making sure to align the edges of the rail heads on the gauge side of the rails.

7. Clean up any solder flux or excess solder. If you do the soldering neatly there should be very little to clean up, but I usually give the joint a few swipes with a needle file to make sure it's smooth both on top and on the gauge side.

This easy technique takes much less time to do than to describe, and it will allow you to change rail sizes whenever and wherever you wish.

Good luck,

Andy

[Sperandeo]

Leaving aside the question of whether it's the right thing to do, here's an easy way to join code 83 to code 100 rail (or any two odd sizes of rail):

1. Slip a rail joiner for the larger size rail halfway onto the end ot the larger rail.

2. Use flat-nose pliers to squeeze the open end of the rail joiner flat.

3. Solder the rail joiner to the larger rail, and tin the flattened end of the rail joiner.

4. Test the fit of the smaller rail with its base resting on the flattened end of the rail joiner. File the flattened end of the rail joiner and/or the base of the smaller rail until the two rail head heights match when the base of the smaller rail is resting on the flattened joiner.

5. Tin the underside of the base of the smaller rail.

6. Solder the smaller rail on top of the flattened joiner, making sure to align the edges of the rail heads on the gauge side of the rails.

7. Clean up any solder flux or excess solder. If you do the soldering neatly there should be very little to clean up, but I usually give the joint a few swipes with a needle file to make sure it's smooth both on top and on the gauge side.

This easy technique takes much less time to do than to describe, and it will allow you to change rail sizes whenever and wherever you wish.

Good luck,

Andy

[daniel1967]

thanks for all the input!!! dan

[daniel1967]

thanks for all the input!!! dan