Terminal strips?

[Anonymous]

I am pretty new at all of this so bare with me , Can someone please tell me the correct way to use terminal strips, and what's their purpose for? Also where can I find IDC connectors, does anyone know the right size to use on a layout? Thanks

[Anonymous]

I am pretty new at all of this so bare with me , Can someone please tell me the correct way to use terminal strips, and what's their purpose for? Also where can I find IDC connectors, does anyone know the right size to use on a layout? Thanks

[Anonymous]

I use terminal strips to connect circuits and identify wires. I like the #6 U pronged connectors but be sure to use the size appropriate to the terminal posts. Give each terminal a unique name or number. Number the posts 1 to 8, 16, or whatever. As you add wires and equipments, record the wire function, terminal #, post # and wire color. I would use Excel if I was doing it again. I number track blocks and throwouts to identify them. In 10 years or so you can chase the circuits. I use a Sharpie to mark the numbers and holes through the deck to the elements. If you think about it, you can use the find routine to chase the circuit in the excel list and go to the layout and find the wire or wire segment. Wiiring does not have to be a giant bird nest.
Lindsay

[Anonymous]

I use terminal strips to connect circuits and identify wires. I like the #6 U pronged connectors but be sure to use the size appropriate to the terminal posts. Give each terminal a unique name or number. Number the posts 1 to 8, 16, or whatever. As you add wires and equipments, record the wire function, terminal #, post # and wire color. I would use Excel if I was doing it again. I number track blocks and throwouts to identify them. In 10 years or so you can chase the circuits. I use a Sharpie to mark the numbers and holes through the deck to the elements. If you think about it, you can use the find routine to chase the circuit in the excel list and go to the layout and find the wire or wire segment. Wiiring does not have to be a giant bird nest.
Lindsay

[Anonymous]

Try www.digikey.com for Insulation Displacement Connectors. Size depends on the current passed through the connector, usually want to rate it for several amps which will probably require several pins paralleled depending on the connector - IDC tends to be for small gauge wires (#20 or smaller) and may only be capable of a fraction of an amp per pin. Also needs special tooling to attach the wires. You may be better off with solder lug connectors instead of IDC.

Terminal strips basically hold wires neatly captive under screws, but allow for disassembly with a screwdriver. Strip just enough insulation off the wires to fit the copper into the clamping area of the terminal. The wire leaving the terminal should remain insulated so there can be no chance of the bare copper touching another bare portion of an adjacent wire.

Some terminal strips are arranged with the screw tightening down on a metal 'squeezer' so you don't have to wrap the wires around the screw. Other wire-under-the-screwhead types are arranged in a single row, or can be a double row that connect opposing screws together electrically for joining many wires coming from opposite directions. You can crimp or solder fork terminals to the wires for clamping under the screw, or the wire can be bent into a hook shape to wrap around the screw. Multi wires should be twisted together prior to bending and clamping under the screw, but there is a limit to how many will fit depending on the wire size and the screw size. Just be sure to hook the wire clockwise so that as the screw is tighted the wire tends to wrap around the screw instead of being forced out from under the screw.

You can also solder wires together or use wirenuts (the twist-on plastic joiners that electricians use) instead of terminal strips, but then the wires are harder to take apart should you ever need to.

[Anonymous]

Try www.digikey.com for Insulation Displacement Connectors. Size depends on the current passed through the connector, usually want to rate it for several amps which will probably require several pins paralleled depending on the connector - IDC tends to be for small gauge wires (#20 or smaller) and may only be capable of a fraction of an amp per pin. Also needs special tooling to attach the wires. You may be better off with solder lug connectors instead of IDC.

Terminal strips basically hold wires neatly captive under screws, but allow for disassembly with a screwdriver. Strip just enough insulation off the wires to fit the copper into the clamping area of the terminal. The wire leaving the terminal should remain insulated so there can be no chance of the bare copper touching another bare portion of an adjacent wire.

Some terminal strips are arranged with the screw tightening down on a metal 'squeezer' so you don't have to wrap the wires around the screw. Other wire-under-the-screwhead types are arranged in a single row, or can be a double row that connect opposing screws together electrically for joining many wires coming from opposite directions. You can crimp or solder fork terminals to the wires for clamping under the screw, or the wire can be bent into a hook shape to wrap around the screw. Multi wires should be twisted together prior to bending and clamping under the screw, but there is a limit to how many will fit depending on the wire size and the screw size. Just be sure to hook the wire clockwise so that as the screw is tighted the wire tends to wrap around the screw instead of being forced out from under the screw.

You can also solder wires together or use wirenuts (the twist-on plastic joiners that electricians use) instead of terminal strips, but then the wires are harder to take apart should you ever need to.

[Anonymous]

Actually I like wire nuts and think they are quicker and easier than terminal stips and lots better than solder. I have several terminal strips under my layout that are no longer used and /or added to. It was too much hassel crawling out to get a little screw driver every time I did something. You can do wire nuts with your bare hands and strip wire with your teeth. Also, you can buy more wire nuts with a buck than terminal strips which leaves more money for rolling stock. I get the little blue ones a a local discount tool store.

[Anonymous]

Actually I like wire nuts and think they are quicker and easier than terminal stips and lots better than solder. I have several terminal strips under my layout that are no longer used and /or added to. It was too much hassel crawling out to get a little screw driver every time I did something. You can do wire nuts with your bare hands and strip wire with your teeth. Also, you can buy more wire nuts with a buck than terminal strips which leaves more money for rolling stock. I get the little blue ones a a local discount tool store.

[Sperandeo]

Regarding IDCs – insulation displacement connectors, also known as "suitcase" connectors – they are made for wire sizes at least as large as 10AWG, and I routinely use them to to tap 16 or 18AWG feeder connections into 12AWG bus wires. That's the brown Scotchlok connector, no. 567. A smaller size, the red no. 558, can join the 16-18 wires to 22AWG wire. The colors make it easy to pick up the right size connector for any job.

These connectors are robust enough to handle any model railroad current loads, and they save a lot of time compared to stripping wires and soldering splices.

The tool 3-M sells for installing its Scotchlok brand IDCs is expensive at about $75, but an under-$20 set of cam-action pliers from my local Ace hardware works just as well. Channel-Lok pliers will do the job too. The hardware store also sells IDCs, but it's cheaper to buy them in bulk and since I connect feeders to every length of rail I use a lot of them. I get mine from Mouser Electronics, www.mouser.com.

so long,

Andy

[Sperandeo]

Regarding IDCs – insulation displacement connectors, also known as "suitcase" connectors – they are made for wire sizes at least as large as 10AWG, and I routinely use them to to tap 16 or 18AWG feeder connections into 12AWG bus wires. That's the brown Scotchlok connector, no. 567. A smaller size, the red no. 558, can join the 16-18 wires to 22AWG wire. The colors make it easy to pick up the right size connector for any job.

These connectors are robust enough to handle any model railroad current loads, and they save a lot of time compared to stripping wires and soldering splices.

The tool 3-M sells for installing its Scotchlok brand IDCs is expensive at about $75, but an under-$20 set of cam-action pliers from my local Ace hardware works just as well. Channel-Lok pliers will do the job too. The hardware store also sells IDCs, but it's cheaper to buy them in bulk and since I connect feeders to every length of rail I use a lot of them. I get mine from Mouser Electronics, www.mouser.com.

so long,

Andy

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Sperandeo

Regarding IDCs – insulation displacement connectors, also known as "suitcase" connectors – they are made for wire sizes at least as large as 10AWG, and I routinely use them to to tap 16 or 18AWG feeder connections into 12AWG bus wires. <>These connectors are robust enough to handle any model railroad current loads, and they save a lot of time compared to stripping wires and soldering splices.<>The hardware store also sells IDCs, but it's cheaper to buy them in bulk and since I connect feeders to every length of rail I use a lot of them.
so long,

Andy

These high current 'wire tap' types are also available in the WalMart automotive department. The term 'IDC' covers a lot of connector types, i described the multipin DB and pcb mount types that connect many wires at once, good for modular setups with many interconnections that need to be unpluggable. But on these types the current rating per pin is much lower than the wiretap types.

Regards

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Sperandeo

Regarding IDCs – insulation displacement connectors, also known as "suitcase" connectors – they are made for wire sizes at least as large as 10AWG, and I routinely use them to to tap 16 or 18AWG feeder connections into 12AWG bus wires. <>These connectors are robust enough to handle any model railroad current loads, and they save a lot of time compared to stripping wires and soldering splices.<>The hardware store also sells IDCs, but it's cheaper to buy them in bulk and since I connect feeders to every length of rail I use a lot of them.
so long,

Andy

These high current 'wire tap' types are also available in the WalMart automotive department. The term 'IDC' covers a lot of connector types, i described the multipin DB and pcb mount types that connect many wires at once, good for modular setups with many interconnections that need to be unpluggable. But on these types the current rating per pin is much lower than the wiretap types.

Regards

[Anonymous]

I personally detest suitcase connectors as unreliable pieces of jury rigging junk. They don't work on solid wire, it must be untinned stranded. Ever seen an OEM use them? Wire nuts and barrier strips yes, suitcase no. They also corrode and fail if you get them wet. I would rather trust twising wires together and taping with masking tape over suitcase connectors. On top of it all, they are also one of the most expensive ways to go.

[Anonymous]

I personally detest suitcase connectors as unreliable pieces of jury rigging junk. They don't work on solid wire, it must be untinned stranded. Ever seen an OEM use them? Wire nuts and barrier strips yes, suitcase no. They also corrode and fail if you get them wet. I would rather trust twising wires together and taping with masking tape over suitcase connectors. On top of it all, they are also one of the most expensive ways to go.