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This would be so easy to show in person,but............... I'll try to describe how I handle this task. First I always pull one rail at least 2-21/2 inches out of the piece of track,this <br />is to stagger the joints. Now I take my X-acto knife with a #11 blade and remove at least 3 or 4 of the little nubs that represent spikes plus the little part that represents a tie plate. This is so you don't have a hump at the joint. Now here is the secret for kink free joints on curves. Remember that 2" you pulled out? You have one piece installed, <br />and because you pulled that rail ,your looking at many empty ties,your 2nd piece of track now also must have a rail pulled that 2" or what ever you like,I'll go 3" for curves. You remove those "spikes/tie plates" at the end of the rail on that first piece,install a rail joiner,now do the same on the rail you didn't pull.Take your 2nd piece of track,with the rail sticking out 2" and slide it up those ties,under the spike heads and into the joiner.Now just slide the other joiner over the 2nd joint.Bingo!,staggered joints,plus that 2"+ rail has followed the curve of that first piece of track. It's almost automatic,smooth flowing curves with no kinks! <br />Many times I'll allow both rails to enter the leading piece of track,4" on one ,.1-2" on the other.Also if you didn't trim enough tie plate away and have a little hump,just hold a soldering gun/iron on the joint until the tie softens,press down gently,hump is gone.Well, if you've read this far your probably totally confused,it's one of those easy to do,hard to describe things.Let me add ,I do this on straight track as well as curves.
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