Atlas HO Turnout Modification

[Anonymous]

I'm just entering into HO modeling and remember reading about a modification you should make to Atlas turnouts to minimize derailments. I've started laying track and am struggling with derailments in my first turnout.

Could anyone offer advice or point me to a Model Railroader Magazine in the last 4 years where this topic is discussed.

Thanks In Advance,

Larry

[Anonymous]

I'm just entering into HO modeling and remember reading about a modification you should make to Atlas turnouts to minimize derailments. I've started laying track and am struggling with derailments in my first turnout.

Could anyone offer advice or point me to a Model Railroader Magazine in the last 4 years where this topic is discussed.

Thanks In Advance,

Larry

[IRONROOSTER]

I don't remember any recent articles on atlas switches. In general some things to check are;
1. Gauge correct everywhere, if you use track nails you can drive them too tight and pinch the gauge.
2. Wheel sets in correct gauge on locos and cars.
3. Track in switch not kinked, bent, etc. Sight along the track.
4. Tracks connecting to switch do not do so smoothly, i.e.kink at joint.
5. S curve, can becaused by using two snap switches (or possibly two no 4's) for crossover and running long equipment through it. S curve also caused by curve coming directly into switch that is opposite the natural curve of the switch. Fix these by using higher numbered switches i.e 6's or 8's and/or by putting straight track in between the switches or curve and switch that is as long as your longest car/loco.
Some modifications to the switch include feathering the points, filing off the top corner of the points. I never found these to be necessary when I was using Atlas, but it was written up. Also have seen recommendations to notch the running rails where the points meet them, but again never found it necessary.
Many hobby stores carry the NMRA HO gauge check, a must have in my opinion.
Enjoy
Paul

[IRONROOSTER]

I don't remember any recent articles on atlas switches. In general some things to check are;
1. Gauge correct everywhere, if you use track nails you can drive them too tight and pinch the gauge.
2. Wheel sets in correct gauge on locos and cars.
3. Track in switch not kinked, bent, etc. Sight along the track.
4. Tracks connecting to switch do not do so smoothly, i.e.kink at joint.
5. S curve, can becaused by using two snap switches (or possibly two no 4's) for crossover and running long equipment through it. S curve also caused by curve coming directly into switch that is opposite the natural curve of the switch. Fix these by using higher numbered switches i.e 6's or 8's and/or by putting straight track in between the switches or curve and switch that is as long as your longest car/loco.
Some modifications to the switch include feathering the points, filing off the top corner of the points. I never found these to be necessary when I was using Atlas, but it was written up. Also have seen recommendations to notch the running rails where the points meet them, but again never found it necessary.
Many hobby stores carry the NMRA HO gauge check, a must have in my opinion.
Enjoy
Paul

[wp8thsub]

Atlas code 100 turnouts are often badly out of gauge around the points, so much so that correctly gauged wheels can fall into the gaps between the points and stock rails. You may need to adjust the stock rails into gauge with pliers.

As was mentioned in another post, you may also want to file the ends of the points sharp so wheels can't "pick the point" (i.e. ride up over the point and derail). Blusnt points are a problem with most of these turnouts. Furthermore, sight down the points and see if they transition smoothly into the closure rails (the fixed rails just beyond the point pivots). If not, the points can be gently reshaped somewhat with finger pressure. Ensure everything stays in gauge while you do this.

Another problem can be excess plastic oozed around the metal frog casting. There's almost always some that requires trimming with a knife blade. It may be necessary to file the frog down if it's cast too high, causing wheels to bounce over it.

Atlas' code 100 turnouts are popular and relatively cheap. Unfortunatley they are plagued with quality control problems. I bought 14 of them for my staging yard and had to re-work every one to ensure reasonably smooth operation. You didn't mention which turnouts you're using, so I guessed code 100. The above problems are far less prevalent with Atlas code 83 track, but are sometimes still there.

[wp8thsub]

Atlas code 100 turnouts are often badly out of gauge around the points, so much so that correctly gauged wheels can fall into the gaps between the points and stock rails. You may need to adjust the stock rails into gauge with pliers.

As was mentioned in another post, you may also want to file the ends of the points sharp so wheels can't "pick the point" (i.e. ride up over the point and derail). Blusnt points are a problem with most of these turnouts. Furthermore, sight down the points and see if they transition smoothly into the closure rails (the fixed rails just beyond the point pivots). If not, the points can be gently reshaped somewhat with finger pressure. Ensure everything stays in gauge while you do this.

Another problem can be excess plastic oozed around the metal frog casting. There's almost always some that requires trimming with a knife blade. It may be necessary to file the frog down if it's cast too high, causing wheels to bounce over it.

Atlas' code 100 turnouts are popular and relatively cheap. Unfortunatley they are plagued with quality control problems. I bought 14 of them for my staging yard and had to re-work every one to ensure reasonably smooth operation. You didn't mention which turnouts you're using, so I guessed code 100. The above problems are far less prevalent with Atlas code 83 track, but are sometimes still there.