Anybody use the new(er) Woodland Scenics stuff?

[Anonymous]

I'm talking about the foam roadbed, the expanded foam risers and profile boars and grades, etc.

I like the idea - I'm planning on getting back to Model Railroading after a long haitus. I want to do this with my kids. I think it would be a great bonding activity (I have kids from my wife's previous marriage, as well as foster kids - and the ALL want attention!)

It seems like a fairly straightforward system, and the kids would be able to help more with foam tack glue and pins than they would with using a jigsaw to cut plywood, and drill to screw in risers... I'm not sure I want them using any power tools just yet! ;)

I was wondering if anybody had any experience with all that stuff - how does the roadbed work compared to cork - is it too soft? Do the styrofoam risers and grades work OK? Are they self-supporting over short distances? etc.

Any opinions would be welcome.

Rob

[Anonymous]

I'm talking about the foam roadbed, the expanded foam risers and profile boars and grades, etc.

I like the idea - I'm planning on getting back to Model Railroading after a long haitus. I want to do this with my kids. I think it would be a great bonding activity (I have kids from my wife's previous marriage, as well as foster kids - and the ALL want attention!)

It seems like a fairly straightforward system, and the kids would be able to help more with foam tack glue and pins than they would with using a jigsaw to cut plywood, and drill to screw in risers... I'm not sure I want them using any power tools just yet! ;)

I was wondering if anybody had any experience with all that stuff - how does the roadbed work compared to cork - is it too soft? Do the styrofoam risers and grades work OK? Are they self-supporting over short distances? etc.

Any opinions would be welcome.

Rob

[MAbruce]

I have used their 2% Styrofoam grade on my layout, and it works fine. I model in N-scale and it was wide enough to accommodate a double track mainline. The product comes in accordion fashioned sections, so it will easily flex to fit almost any radius curve you want. I found it easy to use, but you still have to use a roadbed of some sort as there are regularly spaced gaps (part of the design) that need to be covered over.

It’s a smart design, but a bit pricey. I’d have to say it’s one of the few unique items that WS offers that can’t be found cheaply elsewhere (unless you want to measure and cut your own risers). I usually stay away from their products in general, as I find them to offer everyday materials that are extremely over priced (to the point of price gouging). [:(!]

[MAbruce]

I have used their 2% Styrofoam grade on my layout, and it works fine. I model in N-scale and it was wide enough to accommodate a double track mainline. The product comes in accordion fashioned sections, so it will easily flex to fit almost any radius curve you want. I found it easy to use, but you still have to use a roadbed of some sort as there are regularly spaced gaps (part of the design) that need to be covered over.

It’s a smart design, but a bit pricey. I’d have to say it’s one of the few unique items that WS offers that can’t be found cheaply elsewhere (unless you want to measure and cut your own risers). I usually stay away from their products in general, as I find them to offer everyday materials that are extremely over priced (to the point of price gouging). [:(!]

[Anonymous]

I too, am just reentering the hobby after an absence of many years. I purchased a Grand Valley "layout in a box" as that seemed to be an excellent way to get restarted and be assured of a complete layout within a reasonable time. The three boxes I purchased (one being the track pack from Atlas) seem to be very complete. At the present time I am starting to lay track, having just completed the installation of all of the styrofoam subbase. Styrofoam is much easier and much less messy to work with than the more conventional methods of construction. When anchored with low temperature glue it provides an extremely stable surface. One thing I might recommend if you were to follow with one of the "layouts in a box"...do not purchase the Atlas package. Buy the necessary turnouts and crossovers and connect them with flextrack. There are entirely too many small pieces of snaptrack in the box that I purchased.

I too, have noticed that some of the Woodland Scenics items are pricey. I do feel they provide real quality and their customer service is extremely responsive. My local hobby shop offered the three boxes at a 30% discount if all three were purchased at the same time

[Anonymous]

I too, am just reentering the hobby after an absence of many years. I purchased a Grand Valley "layout in a box" as that seemed to be an excellent way to get restarted and be assured of a complete layout within a reasonable time. The three boxes I purchased (one being the track pack from Atlas) seem to be very complete. At the present time I am starting to lay track, having just completed the installation of all of the styrofoam subbase. Styrofoam is much easier and much less messy to work with than the more conventional methods of construction. When anchored with low temperature glue it provides an extremely stable surface. One thing I might recommend if you were to follow with one of the "layouts in a box"...do not purchase the Atlas package. Buy the necessary turnouts and crossovers and connect them with flextrack. There are entirely too many small pieces of snaptrack in the box that I purchased.

I too, have noticed that some of the Woodland Scenics items are pricey. I do feel they provide real quality and their customer service is extremely responsive. My local hobby shop offered the three boxes at a 30% discount if all three were purchased at the same time

[Anonymous]

my HO layout was entirely done with the foam roadbed...i have found that it seems much quieter and deadens the track quite well...the foam risers and inclines are a snap to use...someone was thinking here...i also use the rest of their products quite extensively...but be carefull...tree packages sometimes do not contain all of the trees in the package...

[Anonymous]

my HO layout was entirely done with the foam roadbed...i have found that it seems much quieter and deadens the track quite well...the foam risers and inclines are a snap to use...someone was thinking here...i also use the rest of their products quite extensively...but be carefull...tree packages sometimes do not contain all of the trees in the package...

[Anonymous]

I've been building my new, current, N-Scale layout with their foam roadbed, and their Foam Tack Glue as an adhesive. The glue is probably a rip-off at $10 for the pint bottle. But, you really don't need very much of it.

I am exremely pleased with the result.

1) It is much easier to lay around curves than cork.
2) It is much quieter.
3) It goes down quicker because the tacky glue holds everything in place

I even used the same glue to glue the track to the foam roadbed. It holds VERY flat and true.

My only tips would be:
1) Get yourself a 1" wide FLEXIBLE putty knife to use for spreading the foam tack glue. A regular putty knife is just too stiff, and if you use it to put glue on the roadbed to glue your track down, it will tear the roadbed. Hardware stores all sell these. Look for the really flexible kind.

2) You might want to add JUST A SPRINKLE of water to the foam tack glue and mix it up. It was too stiff for my liking. I do not bother trying to squeeze it out of the bottle, although it has a nozzle. I just open the top, and scoop out a little at a time with the flexible putty knife.

3) You only need a VERY thin layer of glue. Skim a nice even layer right down your pencil lines (where you've marked out your track on your benchwork), making very sure to get full coverage all the way across the width of where the roadbed will go. It's much more important to fully cover the surface where the roadbed will go that it is to lay down a thick layer. After you've stuck the roadbed down, you can skim off any excess along the edges with the knife.

I'll never go back to cork after using this stuff.

Good luck.

[Anonymous]

I've been building my new, current, N-Scale layout with their foam roadbed, and their Foam Tack Glue as an adhesive. The glue is probably a rip-off at $10 for the pint bottle. But, you really don't need very much of it.

I am exremely pleased with the result.

1) It is much easier to lay around curves than cork.
2) It is much quieter.
3) It goes down quicker because the tacky glue holds everything in place

I even used the same glue to glue the track to the foam roadbed. It holds VERY flat and true.

My only tips would be:
1) Get yourself a 1" wide FLEXIBLE putty knife to use for spreading the foam tack glue. A regular putty knife is just too stiff, and if you use it to put glue on the roadbed to glue your track down, it will tear the roadbed. Hardware stores all sell these. Look for the really flexible kind.

2) You might want to add JUST A SPRINKLE of water to the foam tack glue and mix it up. It was too stiff for my liking. I do not bother trying to squeeze it out of the bottle, although it has a nozzle. I just open the top, and scoop out a little at a time with the flexible putty knife.

3) You only need a VERY thin layer of glue. Skim a nice even layer right down your pencil lines (where you've marked out your track on your benchwork), making very sure to get full coverage all the way across the width of where the roadbed will go. It's much more important to fully cover the surface where the roadbed will go that it is to lay down a thick layer. After you've stuck the roadbed down, you can skim off any excess along the edges with the knife.

I'll never go back to cork after using this stuff.

Good luck.

[n2mopac]

This is somewhat off this topic, but on the topic of new Woodland Scenic products, I love their new Realistic Water and Water Effects products. They are really good and easy to use with great results.
Ron

[n2mopac]

This is somewhat off this topic, but on the topic of new Woodland Scenic products, I love their new Realistic Water and Water Effects products. They are really good and easy to use with great results.
Ron

[MACKINACMAC]

I'm impressed with the Woodland Scenics products for the subterrain and I would recommend it to anyone. I'm building a 4' X 12' layout and have used the risers, inclines & roadbed on a large part of the layout. This is my fifth layout & I've used different methods in the past & like the foam the best. Here are my suggstions:

1 Dont use their glue. Way too expensive. Liquid nails makes a tube glue that works in a caulk gun thats designed for foam. Has no odor. Drys quickly (You still have plenty of time to work with it before it sets up) and cleans up with water. It only costs about a couple of bucks per tube. So far with about 80% of the foam, roadbed & track in, I've used two tubes. You'll need a putty knife to spread out the glue.

2 The foam roadbed is great. Easy to work with, supports the trains very well, and quieter running. Glue the roadbed down using the liquid nails foam glue. Put a few pins in it while it dries. Don't nail it because the foam has a tendency to pu***he nails out.

3 Same goes for the track. Use the liquid nails glue to glue the track down. Again, the foam will pu***he nails out. *** You may want to use the woodland scenics glue to glue down the track. While the liquid nails glue works fast & is very strong, it dries white. You'll either have to paint the track after it's down or use a lighter color ballast to hide it. The woodland scenics glue dries clear.

4 The inclines are nice because they take the guess work out of building the slopes. However, at the top and bottoms you'll have to build up a transition between the slope and the flat top & bottom. Make these as gradual as possible. I didnt do this on a 4% incline and my trains kept uncoupling.

5 I've used their foam putty for the cracks and it works well but my experience is that it shrinks. I like to use spackle, It's cheaper too and works well.

6 One more piece of advice is to buy plenty of knife blades. The foam dulls blades very quickly.

Good luck with your railroad.

[MACKINACMAC]

I'm impressed with the Woodland Scenics products for the subterrain and I would recommend it to anyone. I'm building a 4' X 12' layout and have used the risers, inclines & roadbed on a large part of the layout. This is my fifth layout & I've used different methods in the past & like the foam the best. Here are my suggstions:

1 Dont use their glue. Way too expensive. Liquid nails makes a tube glue that works in a caulk gun thats designed for foam. Has no odor. Drys quickly (You still have plenty of time to work with it before it sets up) and cleans up with water. It only costs about a couple of bucks per tube. So far with about 80% of the foam, roadbed & track in, I've used two tubes. You'll need a putty knife to spread out the glue.

2 The foam roadbed is great. Easy to work with, supports the trains very well, and quieter running. Glue the roadbed down using the liquid nails foam glue. Put a few pins in it while it dries. Don't nail it because the foam has a tendency to pu***he nails out.

3 Same goes for the track. Use the liquid nails glue to glue the track down. Again, the foam will pu***he nails out. *** You may want to use the woodland scenics glue to glue down the track. While the liquid nails glue works fast & is very strong, it dries white. You'll either have to paint the track after it's down or use a lighter color ballast to hide it. The woodland scenics glue dries clear.

4 The inclines are nice because they take the guess work out of building the slopes. However, at the top and bottoms you'll have to build up a transition between the slope and the flat top & bottom. Make these as gradual as possible. I didnt do this on a 4% incline and my trains kept uncoupling.

5 I've used their foam putty for the cracks and it works well but my experience is that it shrinks. I like to use spackle, It's cheaper too and works well.

6 One more piece of advice is to buy plenty of knife blades. The foam dulls blades very quickly.

Good luck with your railroad.