QUOTE: Originally posted by olequa I had stated in another thread that I was experimenting with a technique for gluing ballast that requires no prewetting. It uses a mixture of alcohol and matte medium, applied directly to dry ballast with an eye dropper. I said that the ratio of alcohol to mm was about 8:1. I have to amend that based on further tests. I found that I got an optimum mix using 3 tablespoons of alcohol (I used denatured) to 1/2 teaspoon of mm, which I believe works out to 18:1. This results in a very watery mix that quickly soaks in. I had tried a thicker mix but that sat on the surface and when dry it produced a result that looked like a load of potash had wrecked on the layout. Since no prewetting is required the ballast goes down very quickly. Just spread it and glue it. You don't have to be too careful with the dropper either. I find that the thin mix results in a ballast bed that is well glued but remains flexible, it is rubbery because of the matte medium. This may reduce the amount of wheel noise transmitted down to the benchwork. Conventionally glued ballast ends up rock hard. The best part is that the ballast looks like nothing has been applied to it. This is in sharp contrast to the exposed aggregate concrete look that I get from conventional gluing techniques. Drawbacks are that mm is expensive, but since only about a 1/2 teaspoon is used per foot or so, a little goes a long way. Also I'm told that mm, once cured, will not dissolve with water, so trackwork cannot easily be salvaged. Others point out that it will dissolve with alcohol. This technique does use a lot of alcohol. It may be possible to use white or yellow carpenter's glue instead of mm. But mm dries perfectly flat and that is an advantage. george
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QUOTE: Originally posted by Surfstud31 Where do you get matte medium? Sounds like a great method. My old roadbed was also hard as a rock using the glue/water method and even looked hard. Never thought about how it was sending vibrations to benchwork (my old layout was noisy). Very interesting. What is the whole procedure?
QUOTE: Originally posted by colvinbackshop I may be way off track with this, BUT..... My understanding is that some of the cheaper denatured alcohols are, at times, denatured with some "major" solvents like Acetone Toluene or Toluol products, which can be very aggressive to plastics...and harmful to us too! If this is the case, it would be prudent for us to either use the 70% Isopropyl from Target, K-Mart.....or find denatured alcohol at the "Farm & Fleet" by the gallon (cheaper by the gallon) that is Ethanol, denatured with Methanol. As far as I know, a "dead give away" for identifying this product is that it is marketed or labeled as a Marine Stove Grade Fuel. But hey...Read the label. Better safe than sorry!
QUOTE: Originally posted by markpierce How's about using some cheap vodka? This is perhaps not the least expensive route, with the feds and states taxing alcoholic beverages. But maybe you've got some sitting in the cupboard for some years.
QUOTE: Originally posted by olequa QUOTE: Originally posted by Surfstud31 Where do you get matte medium? Sounds like a great method. My old roadbed was also hard as a rock using the glue/water method and even looked hard. Never thought about how it was sending vibrations to benchwork (my old layout was noisy). Very interesting. What is the whole procedure? The whole procedure is as stated in the leadoff topic above. Namely mix matte medium and alcohol at about 15:1 alc to mm (it's a really watery looking mixture, kinda like spit). Apply directly to dry ballast with eye dropper. That's it. No prewetting required. george
QUOTE: Originally posted by cmrproducts The premixed windshield washer fluid (winter mix) by the gallon at Wal-Mart is about the cheapest there is and a little goes a long way when using it as a wetting agent for the white glue method. I have been using this for years for scenery and ballast.
You can purchase matte medium at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, or any art supply store. It is a good bit more expensive than white glue, but when mixed with alcohol, it goes a long way.
markpierceHow's about using some cheap vodka? This is perhaps not the least expensive route, with the feds and states taxing alcoholic beverages. But maybe you've got some sitting in the cupboard for some years.
As I model North Carolina, I find moonshine to be a suitable alternative.
I can see it now, my little n-scale engineers intoxicated from the ballasting fumes, letting the locomotive swerve along as it tries to keep it between the rails...shouting out, I think I can I think I can