Login
or
Register
Subscriber & Member Login
Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!
Login
Register
Home
»
Model Railroader
»
Forums
»
Layouts and layout building
»
HELIX CONSTRUCTION
HELIX CONSTRUCTION
9964 views
16 replies
Order Ascending
Order Descending
1
2
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Sunday, October 12, 2003 12:12 PM
I have 2 large helixes on my layout. Both work well, (finally) but don't be fooled, Helixs take a lot of work to build. I won't go into how I built mine, just offer these cautions: 1) they take a lot longer to build than you think. They must be built very carefully or they don't work well. 2) I used double layers of masonite to keep the road bed thin. Problem with masonite is that it more easily flexes from side to side (perpedicular to the rails) so if you don't get the helix supports at the right elevations this twisting ends up derailing trains. If I do it again, I'll use threaded rods instead of notched risers (or L brakets, which I used in some spots as well) to allow easy up/down adjustment. 3) They take up a lot more space than is first evident, since the riser supports on the O.D. of the helix add to the foot print. GOOD LUCK.
Reply
Edit
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Sunday, October 12, 2003 12:12 PM
I have 2 large helixes on my layout. Both work well, (finally) but don't be fooled, Helixs take a lot of work to build. I won't go into how I built mine, just offer these cautions: 1) they take a lot longer to build than you think. They must be built very carefully or they don't work well. 2) I used double layers of masonite to keep the road bed thin. Problem with masonite is that it more easily flexes from side to side (perpedicular to the rails) so if you don't get the helix supports at the right elevations this twisting ends up derailing trains. If I do it again, I'll use threaded rods instead of notched risers (or L brakets, which I used in some spots as well) to allow easy up/down adjustment. 3) They take up a lot more space than is first evident, since the riser supports on the O.D. of the helix add to the foot print. GOOD LUCK.
Reply
Edit
ndbprr
Member since
September 2002
7,486 posts
Posted by
ndbprr
on Tuesday, October 14, 2003 11:07 AM
Believe it or not you didn't gain much by using masonite for the base. All you saved was the thickness difference over heavier wood on the first lap. After that the physics are the same regardless of the thickness of the base material. If you need 4" clearance the thickness is not part of the equation merely the rise per unit length.
Reply
ndbprr
Member since
September 2002
7,486 posts
Posted by
ndbprr
on Tuesday, October 14, 2003 11:07 AM
Believe it or not you didn't gain much by using masonite for the base. All you saved was the thickness difference over heavier wood on the first lap. After that the physics are the same regardless of the thickness of the base material. If you need 4" clearance the thickness is not part of the equation merely the rise per unit length.
Reply
1
2
Subscriber & Member Login
Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!
Login
Register
Users Online
There are no community member online
Search the Community
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter
See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter
and get model railroad news in your inbox!
Sign up