Soldering feedback

[claycts]

Thansk to MANY on this forum I have finaly learned HOW to Solder and WHAT to use for what application.
The project is code 83 HO nickel Silver rail, Feeders and Joints. 950 Feet of flex track 145 turnouts in an 800 sq ft area. (Phase one) phase two will be another 800 sq ft with 650 feet of track and only 90 turnouts.

Joints (rail joiners) Soldering BOTH rails for the curve section and ONE rail for the straight.

Feeders are #22 AWG SOLID wire (BUS is #12 awg stranded)

Joints: Soldering GUN 100 WATT Radio Shack ($19.95), Silver Solder Flux, Tip Cleaner and tinning product. Solder is 62/36/2 .015 dia High Tech Silver Bearing Solder form Radio Shack.
Clean joint, add flux, apply heat to RAIL JOINER till flux flows touch solder to joint, prefect every time.

Feeders on HIDDEN TRACK WORK: Drill hole in tie and feed in the wire (this is AFTER you remove the insulation) allow about 1/2" of BARE wire to project above the tie. Apply 2 Bends to the wire. Bend one is 90 deg to the ties, the 2nd is a KINK to allow the wire to sit FLAT against the ouside of the rail.

The solder joint: 20/40 watt soldering atation set on 20 watts, Solder is 62/36/2 .015 dia. Clean TIP in Cleaner/tinner, apply hest to the rail, tin the rail, allow to cool, using a pick, press the wire to the rail and then apply heat, solder will flow and give you a clean joint.

FEEDERS on Visable Track work: Solder the FEEDER WIRE to the BOTTOM of the Rail joiner. The way I am doing it is making the track joint 1st (most heat) then the wire joint. The other way of wire than track can give you a poor joint on the wire connection.

This is what I have found is working for me. Please point out any thing you see wrong in this procedure so others who read this get a chance to see an alternate point of view.

[Anonymous]

I have never read such a great breakdown of how to solder track joints and feeder wires! Thank you from the ignorant in the group! I'll be tackling track laying in the next couple months, and I've had several questions that you just answered! Thanks again!

[Janafam]

George,

Great detail in your soldering summary. I use flux solder as a quick one step. Also, on your straight track you mentioned soldering one rail, is that so you alternate at the next section joint?

[claycts]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Janafam

George,

Great detail in your soldering summary. I use flux solder as a quick one step. Also, on your straight track you mentioned soldering one rail, is that so you alternate at the next section joint?

Yes, for expansion only.
We are using LATEX caulk to glue down the cork to the OSB then latex caulk to fasten the flex to the cork. We will be using some stuff I make for ballast retention. That is another detail we are working on.
Take Care
George P.

[Anonymous]

Your using silver solder flux? Are you sure? Make sure you clean up the soldered area real good with alcohol and a stiff brush. That stuff is acidic.

Glenn

[claycts]

QUOTE: Originally posted by phatpony

Your using silver solder flux? Are you sure? Make sure you clean up the soldered area real good with alcohol and a stiff brush. That stuff is acidic.

Glenn

NOT silver solder flux, SILVER SOLDER. The content is 63/36/2 2 is the silver. and at .015 it is the finest solder you can find, almost melts with a match.

[Anonymous]

One suggestion, try standard lead/tin solder for the feeders. Silver solder has a higher melting temperature than standard solder and is a good choice for rail joiners which you are doing first. The power feeders are soldered next and can be attached faster with slightly less heat build up to loosen the joiner and less chance of melting the ties .
Great post on a "mystery" process for some of our members.
Have a great New Year, getting the tracks down!
Will

[claycts]

I will try the standard type solder for the feeders. Got a COLD HEAT gun for Christmas. Great for small wire to terminal or small to small. Will not handle a rail joint.
Happy New Year and if you are reading this on New Years Day then WE need to get a life!! [:D]
Wife is hppy I am down here out of trouble and not in front of the BOOB TUBE!

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts

QUOTE: Originally posted by phatpony

Your using silver solder flux? Are you sure? Make sure you clean up the soldered area real good with alcohol and a stiff brush. That stuff is acidic.

Glenn

NOT silver solder flux, SILVER SOLDER. The content is 63/36/2 2 is the silver. and at .015 it is the finest solder you can find, almost melts with a match.

Oh, OK. I'm not familiar with that type of solder though. I am an Electronics tech and all we use is the 60/40 or the even better 64/36 stuff. When you say silver solder I think of oxy-acetylene torches, welding gloves and dark tinted goggles. That stuff takes alot of heat to flow.

Oh btw- not to split hairs, but your silver solder comes to 101%[;)]

Glenn

[claycts]

Glenn those are the numbers on the Radio Shack Spool 62/36/2 part #64-035e. That is 100% I think, I used my fingers and toes to check the math LOL

[Anonymous]

LOL!

[howmus]

claycts, sounds like you have it downpat! I think what you are doing should work very well indeed. Good to hear that you are getting some serious work done in that dept. Happy New Year!

[claycts]

QUOTE: Originally posted by howmus

claycts, sounds like you have it downpat! I think what you are doing should work very well indeed. Good to hear that you are getting some serious work done in that dept. Happy New Year!

Happ New year to you, I am now trying to master the use of latex caulk to install the track. This Code 83 is like a SPRING! The old fiber tied code 100 ws a lot easier to do. that was the last time I put down track!!!

[Anonymous]

....while the topic is fresh.........
What is best to use when soldering components of a brass engine together?
regular solder just never seems to stick....

[MickEnright]

QUOTE: Originally posted by vbaglivio

....while the topic is fresh.........
What is best to use when soldering components of a brass engine together?
regular solder just never seems to stick....

I've had success with TIX and TIX Liquid Flux. Strong, low-melting point, and flows easily. Just remember the basics: Clean the joint properly, use the right amount of heat, and "tin" whenever possible!


Mick

[claycts]

QUOTE: Originally posted by vbaglivio

....while the topic is fresh.........
What is best to use when soldering components of a brass engine together?
regular solder just never seems to stick....

The use of a Resistance system is what I have seen, other s have told you the type of solder. If I go the Brass route I will get an American Beauty Resistance system. I have seen a scratch built shay using this system and it looked perfect.
That is My $.02