Are there any Electric Uncouplers/Couplers

[John Richards]

I love Shunting at anytime, can spend hours at it and consider I`ve had a
great session of running my Layout.
But, I just cannot seem to get these "Kadee`s" couplers Tuned up or in
correctly, I always end up with a hangup or miscouple of some type and
this peeves me no end.
Is there some sort of "Electro Magnetic" Coupler I could have a look at that
could be activated at need and not because I`m just passing, or releast
when I require such and not because I`ve just past over a Magnet??.
Preferably a unit that wont require that I trade in at least 3 Granchildren and
also take out a Bankloan for 5 years.
Any advise or suggestion would be appreciated.

Commpliments of the Season.

[TomDiehl]

Yes, Kadee makes one, check their website.

[cacole]

Depending on what scale you're using and what type of control system. Tony's Train Exchange (http://www.tonystrains.com) sells a DCC-controlled coupler system that fits onto a locomotive that allows you to uncouple electronically. It's called the Digital Direct Coupler system. Click on his On-Line Product Catalog and then scroll to the bottom of the page for more information about this system.

[MisterBeasley]

Permanent magnet or electromagnet, between-the-rails or under-the-ties, all of the uncouplers depend on a couple of things:

1. The couplers must be aligned and adjusted properly. Get the Kadee coupler gauge for a few dollars. Get the trip-pin pliers for a few more. While you're at it, get the little gadget for replacing coupler springs. It won't help with alignment, but sooner or later you'll need it. When you get the gauge, you might say, "I paid good money for this?" But after you use it for a while, you'll understand why Kadee is the only coupler anyone recommends. They've done their homework.

2. The couplers must be aligned and adjusted properly. Spend the time to get a few engines and cars really, really in spec with the gauge.

3. The magnetic ramps need a straight section of track. It should be at least as long as the two longest cars or locos you plan to uncouple there, with the ramp in the center. This is so the couplers will be lined up as you uncouple them.

4. The couplers must be aligned and adjusted properly. Yes, it's your railroad, and you can do what you want with it, but it's Kadee's coupler specifications, and you have to obey them if you want everything to work right.

[John Richards]

Thank you for your advise one and all, Mister Beasly, I have two of the Kadee
Gauges and spend some time on each application, but to little avail which
can be quite disappointing, I also have the Kadee Pliers as well.
My main problem seems to be when I`ve uncoupled a wagon and proceed
to shunt it into a spur or branch line the coupler closes or recouples instead
of remaining open, every now and again all works well, but not often enough.

I model in Sn3.5 Scale on 16.5mm Guage Track, my models are heavy both
loco`s and rolling stock, but really that should have no bearing on the problem
I have.
John.

[MisterBeasley]

This isn't an uncoupling problem, but something not working right with the "delayed-action" feature of Kadees. Actually, I'm starting to play with these more myself, and I'm having that same problem. When I look closely, I see several different problems. First, once uncoupled, I have to back off the engine a bit to make sure the couplers are completely dis-engaged and offset. Then, they have to mate smoothly, but with only the non-knuckle sides in contact. This is where the straight-track-for-2-car-lengths rule is important. If both couplers aren't pulled over by the ramp, it probably won't work, but the coupler that's not pulled over is not adjusted right. (Or, maybe it's not a Kadee.)

The other problem I'm having is maintaining a smooth push down the track. If there is a jolt or a pause, like a momentary loss of power crossing a frog, I find that the couplers often separate briefly (Isacc Newton at work) and then re-engage and couple. Once they lose direct contact, the couplers will spring back on-center, and when they meet again they will re-couple.

Of course, the place I'm having this problem is right in the middle of my 5-foot-wide layout, exactly that 30-inch reach from anywhere. It's hard enough just to re-rail a car there, so aligning an uncoupler ramp correctly is proving very difficult. Instead, I'm thinking of setting up an uncoupler ramp on a test track so I can take my problem cars and work on them until they really work right, before I put them back on the layout.

[John Richards]

I like your idea of a uncoupler ramp on a test track, I might just steal your idea as it
seems some of your problems are simular to mine, I have shoulder problems and
therefore reduced reach as well as a body portion that hangs over my belt and crushes
buildings if I`m not carefull, I claim old age and I`m sticking to it.;-}
Thanks for your suggestions and Compliments of the Season to you.

John.