nicking point rails at the pivot

[FJ and G]

I just finished some O scale turnouts using code 148. On the points, I stopped spiking several inches from the ends so they'd flex and they're working fine

However, after I discussed this w/some others, they said that too much stress is placed on the spikes so they do a variety of things to alleviate such as cutting part of the bottom of the rail where the bend takes place or putting a small nick in the side of the head rail or attaching a rail joiner at the pivot point.

I'm not sure I need to do anything at all b/c while I do notice some resistance when activating the switch stand, I don't see the spikes imperiled.

Any comments or suggestions appreciated.

[fwright]

David

I did the same in Code 70 in HO. The only problem I ran into was that I used a PC board tie for the throwbar and soldered the points to the throwbar instead of installing pivots. I found the throwbar caused a very slight longitudinal movement of the points all the way up to the gap near the frog. But it never had any problems with the spikes working loose. FWIW, I have redwood ties glued to Homasote.

I wouldn't worry until you see the spikes working.

yours in tracking
Fred

[rolleiman]

QUOTE: Originally posted by fwright

David

I did the same in Code 70 in HO. The only problem I ran into was that I used a PC board tie for the throwbar and soldered the points to the throwbar instead of installing pivots. I found the throwbar caused a very slight longitudinal movement of the points all the way up to the gap near the frog. But it never had any problems with the spikes working loose. FWIW, I have redwood ties glued to Homasote.

I wouldn't worry until you see the spikes working.

yours in tracking
Fred

Mine are done basically the same way, both 100 and 70.. The rails are cut at the frogs only for power routing the frog, and the points are soldered to a PC board throwbar.. There really isn't enough circular movement of the throwbar (in HO) to cause a big problem but once in awhile I do have to solder one back together. There are no hinges on my turnouts. Wood ties, glued to milled basswood.

Jeff

[selector]

If you go to the Fast Tracks website and can steel yourself to watch the 75 minute streaming video on handlaid turnouts (it is worth the time, IMO), you will see his technique. I can't remember him notching the point rails, but he does alter the frog wings to an extent. Anyway, his points work well, and he has no problem with torque, torsion, or rotation.

BTW, I am pumped and will build a few of my next layout's switches, all leading to the dreaded must-have...a double-slip.

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/

Merry Christmas, David.

-Crandell

[FJ and G]

Thanks, guys.

Very nice website and a Merry Christmas to you too, Crandell. I'm off to the Holy Land on Tuesday for my 2-wk honeymoon

Cheers

[dehusman]

Knicking the base or head of the point rail to allow it to flex more easily will, over time, cause the rail to break at the point its knicked. Basic metal fatique. Now how long that will take is anybody's guess, depends on the size the rail, how many times its thrown per session, how far its thrown, etc.

Dave H.