Track Laying Process - Could Use some advice...

[dickencr]

Ok… I’ve read most of the articles and posts about laying track. I have several books that gloss over the subject. Most recently, I read the horror stories by Hazmat9 and the wreck of old 97… the problems that are plaguing him. I am asking this because the next step in my attempts with this is to begin laying track.

Planed steps:
1. I have a full sized drawing of the project (3 x 7 n scale) and the table built (Open Grid). I have the 3/8” plywood skin on, fastened in a couple of places.
2. I was going to assemble the track on the drawing template, solder several of the more complex sections together. Carefully numbering and making sure that the subassemblies make it to the intended location.
3. Install the 3/8” on the open-grid table. Mark the elevation and overpass cuts using the subassemblies and master plan.
4. Install the extruded foam board (if I can ever find what I’m looking for).
5. Re-assemble the track subassemblies, mark the roadbed (plan to use Midwest cork)
6. Attach the cork, and the track.

I know all of this sound redundant as all get out, but I’m not sure there is a better way to eliminate or prevent the problems that I’ve read about. I can see that with some care and obvious attention to detail during these various phases of construction, there should be little adjustment necessary.

Did I miss something or have I made this more complicated than necessary? The obvious goal here is to learn as I go, but I don’t want to be a gandy dance for a hobby. I would like to run trains, but I don’t want this to be an exercise in futility either.

I could use some experienced advice here.

[Big_Boy_4005]

If you had to put the focus on one aspect of construction, it would have to be the subroadbed AKA plywood. If that gets messed up, everything else goes south in a hurry. That is your foundation. Make sure that it is well supported, and as smooth as possible.

Working in N scale, trains are very sensative to bumps and dips. Use a straitght edge to double check the plywood installation.

[HAZMAT9]

Sounds like you're headed in the right direction. With my layout, I was using a sectional track plan that I converted over to flex, anyhow what threw me off was assuming that the book was the bible! Every cut was made exactly to what the book said....until I got to the page that mentioned: "you may have to make some adjustments." Oh those adjustments started the nightmare. Anyhow things are better now as I trashed the book and started using my own intuition and lots of help from the forum. For as complex my plan is with so many switches, the layout is running much smoother now than a couple of weeks ago. I still have a few micro adjustments to make on the track but I was able to pull a nine train consist with few if any problems. I planned, almost too much and didn't see the problems until I started getting my hands dirty. Anyone who says that they doesn't have some type of problem when assembling....may I shake their hand. [:D] Good Luck!!

[rolleiman]

If you read through HAZMAT9s threads you have a lot of good advice already.. Just as those tips can aid in finding problems later, they can also help in avoiding them to begin with.. I'll add a little to Big_Boy_4005s suggestion of the straight edge buy suggesting you use a flashlight as well.. With the straightedge laying on edge (on top of your plywood, then your roadbed, then your track) shine the light behind the straightedge.. You should not see any light passing under it. Where you Do see light, is a potential problem.. Correct these as you go.. Leave them you'll be plagued with track problems. Further, watch out for kinks both in your turns and at the top and bottom of your elevations. They should all be smooth (unless you are for some reason intentionally changing radius within a turn). When you enter into a turn from a straight, don't abruptly begin the curve. Let the track ease into the curve.. Though not a perfectly calculated and laid out one, this will set up an easement of sorts which will both improve appearance and operation. IF you are using grades, Vertical easements (top and bottom of a grade) are equally important, if not more-so. You don't want motocross ramps at the tops of your grades.. This is one of the reasons I like cookie cutter plywood construction when it comes to building grades.. The vertical easements are almost built in.

Jeff

[dickencr]

I really appreciate the advise. Thanks.... I thought through the cookie cutter approach for that very reason. I wasn't quite sure why, but it made sense. Now I understand. Thanks.

I'll elt you know how this goes. Work starts this weekend. I finally have seom time off from work, and looking forward to getting my hands dirty.

Cheers...

[cmrproducts]

The biggest problem I have found when laying track is the kinks at the rail joints. Now I work in HO. As you go to the smaller scales the problems with kinks (both vertical and horizontal) cause more problems.

I use Homasote on top of my subroadbed and then put cork roadbed on top of that. I sometimes have to sand the cork to get rid of small bumps due to the Homasote irregularities. This is just a fact of life and you may find this with joints between sections of foam. So be ready to sand down the roadbed before you lay the track.

As I lay the track I physically site along my rails, looking for kinks. And I solder every joint. I also put in drop wires on each of the rail joints. Now if I find a kink at a joint I just reheat the solder joint and hold the joint over until the joint cools. I sometimes have to over hold the joint (if it is in a curve) as it will spring back. Most modelers don’t realize this and end up in frustration as to why they can not get a smooth joint in a curve.

I also may have to use pliers to physically bend the rails slightly to get them to stay put and keep a sweeping radius in a curve.

I usually only add one section of flex in a curve at a time and stagger the rail joints as the one rail gains in length as you curve the track. I just pull back the next piece of rail and slide them together. I will only remove the little nubs where the rails come together and slide the jointer on that one rail. Now when I solder the joint it will slightly melt the plastic and settle into the plastic ties. This eliminates the little hump at the joint and I do not have to remove any ties at the joints.

BOB H – Clarion, PA