Track Cleaning

[CaptainChuck]

What is the best way to keep the track nice and clean?

-Chuck [:)]

[selector]

Hey, Cap'n C. This subject comes up about once a week, so you are in good company. The finest, in fact. [:D]

Isopropyl alcohol has its place in your toolbox, along with paper towels. Both are cheap and will do the trick. Just watch the paper towels for lint, and be careful not to brush other things with the parts of the towel you are not appying to the track.

However, there is a huge fan club here for metal polishes of the type that car fans use on their mag wheels. MAAS, or Black Magic, or Mother's Mag Cleaner are examples of the products that their users swear is the way to clean AND to keep them form oxidizing so quickly. Just put a small dab on a clean cloth wrapped around a small stick or your finger, and rub. Let them dry for a few seconds, and then wipe thoroughly.

[challenger3802]

Another method of track cleaning is to use a high frequency track cleaner, attached in series between the power supply and the track. Two companies make this: Roco & Gaugemaster. My layout is permanently connected to a HF track cleaner and i've not had any problems in its first year of use.

Hope this helps
Ian

[2021]

I was intigued by the Gaugemaster suggestion so I just looked it up on the internet. A BIG word of caution: it cannot be used on DCC.
Ron K.

[Anonymous]

I ended up buying a little track cleaner on ebay. So far I am pretty happy with it. Its just a 1 and 3/4 inch piece of leather about 1 inch wide with double sided tape on one end that attaches to the bottom of a car (any car), and a 1/4 lead weight on the other end (smooth side of leather), rough side towards the track and rides on the track. It can be cleaned when needed with soap and water. Like said so far its working pretty good.
ennout

[cmrproducts]

This track-cleaning question comes up all the time. And there are so many ways to do track CLEANING.

But I just got tired of cleaning my track. IS cleaning track more fun that running trains? It seems so as everyone has his or her own method.

But why do we have to keep cleaning the track? It obviously doesn’t work, as YOU keep having to do it over and over. WHY?

Wouldn’t it be better if you eliminated the problem and NOT have to clean track again!

Why are there so many different ways of cleaning track? Because they don’t work!

The trains won’t stay running smooth for long and you are back to CLEANING the track again, Right?

I finally got tired of cleaning 2600 feet of track as it took the better part of a day to do. I am a model railroader not a cleaning fanatic. If I want to do cleaning I can go upstairs and dust the house (the wife would love it!) and I do, so going down to the basement is the last place I want to be and have to clean track. I just want to run trains!

So I finally tried the metal polish on my rails. It STOPPED having to clean the rails period!

Yes all of your other ways work but you keep doing them over and over. I DON’T!

I just had OPTUD 6 (OP Till U Drop) 2 weeks ago and had 50 operators in for three 4-hour sessions! That’s 12 hours of running trains. And Spacemouse was there. And I did not clean the track before the session. In fact I hadn’t cleaned the track since the last OPTUD back in July of 2004. And I really don’t remember if I cleaned it then! It has been so long since I cleaned anything other than the loco wheels.

So what am I trying to say is! Use the metal polish any type and it stops the track cleaning - period!

Unless that is the only reason you have for running your trains (to use that expensive track cleaning car)!

BOB H – Clarion, PA

[Anonymous]

I have also run on cmrproducts layout on a regular basis. The metal polish works PERIOD. It is the only way to clean track or the lack there of if it is done properly.

[HAZMAT9]

Can someone recommend a metal poli***o use? Thanks! [:D]

[cmrproducts]

HAZMAT9

I use Blue Magic (liquid)! Have also used Mothers Mag Wheel polish (paste). Both available at Wal-Mart

I have found the Blue Magic in paste form at Auto parts stores.

BOB H - Clarion, PA

[NevinW]

I tried MAS cream on my layout and found it to be tedious and s little messy. I used a q-tip and a dry cloth to remove it from the rails. Any suggestions on how to do a large layout without getting on the sides of the rails?

[cmrproducts]

I use an old piece of HO cork roadbed material (Midwest brand) and put a little of the polish on the cork. I then rub the rails and usually do about 6 to 8 feet at a time. I then use a clean piece of cork to buff the rails to remove the haze that forms after the polish dries. And that is it! I just continue doing sections and buffing the rails.

I get very little if any polish on the sides of the rails unless I put too much on the cork.

Yes it takes a little time but once you get into the swing of it, it will go real fast.

But remember that the main benefit is not having to clean the rails again for years at a time!

Bob H – Clarion, PA

[mgruber]

Has anyone tried using this stuff to clean metal wheels on rolling stock and powered equipment?

[waltersrails]

Track cleaning car bright boy or any easer cuetip and alcochol works good for me.

[MAbruce]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mgruber

Has anyone tried using this stuff to clean metal wheels on rolling stock and powered equipment?

I tried it once on one of my N-scale locos. It was messy, but cleaned the wheels. But it also takes the black off the wheels. I find it easier (and just as effective) to run the wheels over a piece of cloth soaked in isopropyl Alcohol.

However, I do find it works very well cleaning brass contact strips on locos.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by NevinW

I tried MAS cream on my layout and found it to be tedious and s little messy. I used a q-tip and a dry cloth to remove it from the rails. Any suggestions on how to do a large layout without getting on the sides of the rails?

I use MAAS on my layout, well, er.. I used it once and havent had to clean track since[:)]. Anyway, Get some 2x4. Cut it into 4" length and staple some cloth to it. I used an old shirt. Make 2 of these "cleaning blocks" Put a little MAAS on one and wipe it on the rails maybe 8-10 feet. Then take the dry one and wipe it off. Thats it! Just repeat the process a few times and you will have clean track for a long time to come.

[Anonymous]

oh, and when you put the polish on the "wet" block, smear it around with your finger. If you just have a big glob of it on there it will get on ties and ballast.

[Anonymous]

FINALLY!!! I HAVE BROKEN THE CODE TO ENDEARING CLEAN RAILS!!!!
AN HO MODELLER SINCE 1970, I TOO HAVE SPENT WAY TOO MANY HOURS CLEANING RAILS INSTEAD OF RUNNING TRAINS. FATHOM THIS:

* All rail stock is extruded to shape and cut to length, yet no further finishing is done to them; Only an electro-plated corrosion inhibitor at best.
* Close inspection reveals a kind of 'hazy' shine, at best, after a bright boy (abrasive) is used, and even after any polish, too.
*This shine is limited, because there are pits and bumps caused by the fabrication process. Therefore, there is less metal to relect light, because of the pits trapping the oxidants. Also, the wheels are riding on these bumps, lessening tractive adhesion.
* These pits also cause more drag on turns to the rolling stock wheels.


THE MAGIC FORMULA!!! ( Try a three-foot section)
1) Clean rails with a standard cotton t-shirt rag, NO POLISH!! Dry only, to remove excess deposits.
2) Sand rails with 400 grit wet/dry paper (Dry) on a small block. Don't be afraid,this is a one-time process! You will feel the rails get smoootherr...
3) Do it again with 600 grit. wipe off dust from rails.
4) NOW, For the coup de grace; use a 1/2-inch stainless-steel cut washer (rounder edge against rails) to BURNI***he rails! Pas repeatedly back and forth to acheive the highest shine and best results, being that all you now need to do is an occasional wipe of the rail with the dry cotton or dry track cleaner, NO ABRASIVE CLEANER! This will negate all the above work!!

THIS IS DCC-FREINDLY TO THE POINT OF CREEPING A SCALE 1 MPH WITH NO FALTER!! I am a member of the Deerfield Beach Railroad Museum . After 4 weeks, the rails still have the same just-cleaned luster! This works on ALL types of metal and scales!

[cmrproducts]

Yes as does the metal polish and I do NOT have to do any thing to the rails going on year number 3.

Some people just love to have an excuse to play with cleaning cars and/or find work to this rail cleaning thing.

The choice is yours metal polish once and run the layout or try and come up with new ways to clean the track.

I personally like to run the trains not clean the track.

No track cleaning since 2003!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

[molsongoldon]

[?] ok so I have read the posts and tried the alcohol based cleaners too. I followed the advice of model railroad article to use Flitz. Not sure if I really like the idea. the tracks still are dirty.

is it because I really do not use the layout that much? Engine and rolling stock wheels are clean.[^]

[cmrproducts]

The main question is, do the engines run without stalling now that you have put the metal polish on?

I can rub my rails with a rag and the black stuff just keeps coming off, BUT the trains are running great. Sound engines never have sound drop outs.

This is the real test!

I do not worry about the black crud on the rails. If the engines are running is that not what you are after?

Or do you want nice shiny rails?

I went through this cleaning track thing for 30 plus years and used every liquid there is and all they did was clean the rails!

Then the dirt settled back on the rails and I had to clean them again and again and again.

I got real tired of this and tried the metal polish (Mothers Mag Wheel and Blue Magic) and it worked for the past 2 years. Now I am going to keep on running my layout until the engines won’t go any more just to see how long it takes for the poli***o wear off.

Now what you do is up to you. I am only stating what works for me and about 50 others around my area. We do NOT track cleaning anymore!

The choice is yours. If you like to clean track then by all means continue doing what you have done in the past.

I won’t as I do not have to clean any track anymore!

BOB H – Clarion, PA

[Anonymous]

More FATHOMMING; tracks that become ENERGIZED at any voltage become electrostatic magnets to particles of dust floating in the room. This includes {Mike will hate me for this} CIGARETTE and CIGAR SMOKE. the problem is that these particle are still FULL SCALE and accumalate quickly on the energized rails.
Anything can cause dust ; danderuff, lint, pet shedding, woodwork, sanding,etc.
If these sources access the railroad, ;.......:::::::::iiiiiiiIIIIIII It just builds up & up.
Has anyone ever modelled inside a hermetically sealed, dust-free, lint-free uniform-only,please- environment before?

[RichS1]

I too use polish on my 1500 feet of track I do not have any carpet on my cement floor, and some places do not have a ceiling in my basement.....
Once in a great while I have to run the vacume to clean up the dust, but I NEVER have to clean my track.....
I too have not polished my track since 2003 and we run every other thurs....
I too have run on Bob H's layout, and it's like the little pink rabbit it just keeps on running.

Sounds like some of you fellas like to clean track all the time....
Rich S

[cmrproducts]

Well, last night (Dec 30) I had a modeler and his nephew stop by as he wanted to see DCC Digitrax in action, as he is planning on converting soon.

Now I have not run the layout since Thanksgiving as I have been busy adding scenery and rebuilding several sidings on the layout. The layout was a mess and I had to move stuff off the layout just to run some trains!

When he arrived I just went down and turned on the layout. I have 3 blocks on the layout and one of them I had a short on so I just shut it off. (I know that there must have been a tool laying on the tracks somewhere) any way I got out a UT4R keypad and let nephew (6 years old) acquire the first unit (a sound engine) The nephew took off with the engine and a train . Now remember this layout had not been run for over a month and construction taking place but the sound engine ran perfect.

Says a little about metal polished track doesn’t it!

We also fired up 2 other Atlas engines as Frank wanted to try his hand at operating a helper and the train using the DT400 R keypad.

Now I was a little apprehensive about this as the pusher engine was coupled directly to the train (which was a really short one – 6 cars) so string lining was a possibility with such a short train (had a bunch of Walthers tankcars in it). Needless to say if the track had caused either one of the engines to stall even for a moment the train would have hit the floor. Frank (also being totally new to the Digitrax system and then trying to run 2 engines independently – not MUed) ran the train out of Phillipston yard up the hill to Lawsonham and over to St Charles – for a total of 100 feet. Then to top it all off he decided to back the train back down to the yard while it was still coupled together. Now I was really getting nervous but knowing that the engines would not miss a beat let him do it.

Would YOU let a complete novice do that with your equipment after having let the layout sit for over a month and the dust from construction?

And remember now that the track has not been cleaned since I used the metal polish back in July of 2003. Now tell me about how your track cleaners will do THAT!

BOB H – Clarion, PA

[Anonymous]

Semafore;
Can you elaborate on your burnishing technique? Why the 1/2 inch cut washer? I have a small SS plate with a rolled edge. Would that not do? Do you rub very hard?, much pressure? speed? Do you think this method will work on brass as well as NS?

I want to try your method so any elaboration will be helpful. Thanks

[pkeppers]

How does the metal polish affect the pulling capacity on grades? Is it signifincatly reduced?

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by pkeppers

How does the metal polish affect the pulling capacity on grades? Is it signifincatly reduced?

It has no effect if you do it properly and wipe it all off quickly. I have 3% grades on my layout that were cleaned with MAAS and I havent noticed any decreased pulling power.

[cmrproducts]

pkeppers

I have 4% grades on my layout (25 x 75 ft room – 2700 ft of track). The layout is designed as a coal hauler and is a prototypical representation of the Conrail Lowgrade from Dubois to East Brady, PA. There are 6 independent railroads feeding the Lowgrade line.

I began building the layout in 2000 and was doing OPs as soon as I had some track down.

So I know what the pulling ability of the engines was from the beginning. I metal polished all of the track back in July of 2003. I did not see any reduction of pulling ability but if there was any I never noticed it as I use helpers on my 4% grades.

The reason for the 4% grades was to actually need them not just for looks as so many other layouts do!

BOB H – Clarion, PA

[Anonymous]

moldy oldie;yes, that's fine. the washer I had on hand, and found the hole helps keep a grip on the washer.
Medium pressure is fine, 15-20 strokes does well. this includes ALL RAIL; CROSSES, SWITCHES,SIDINGS, TURNTABLE, EVERYTHING.!
Also, the finish looks MIRROR-LIKE! Gotta go; HAPPY NEW YEAR!!
Oh, I'm gonna try some polish on a section, to see what happens over time .tic.tic.tic.