Messed up no-lix!

[claycts]

I built the 1st no-lix and it was a MESS. Trying again using the measure 3 times cut once, 2 did not work.
This is a VISABLE (60% of it) rise from 52" to 58". THe space only allows for 30.5" radius . The track must OFFSET for bridges at least 6" at the view point to give the look of two seperated tracks. The trains will not look like they are chasing their tail since the mad lrngth is 9 freight or 4 passenger.
Anybody got any input on this thing?
Construction is "L" with 1/2" OSB and Cork. Track is code 83 N/S (HO).
The 1st attempt was a monument to my bad carpentry skills, nothing was smooth and to many joints. This attempt will aonly have 4 joints in the rise not counting the start and finish point. Old one had 9 joints.
I was told by a clunb member to use a spline instead since that is the ONLY WAY to build a no lix.
THanks For your help in the past.
Merry Christmas and mat Santa bring all the trains you want!!

[howmus]

One advantage of useing the spline method is that it can be built as one solid piece and supported from below. This would reduce the problem of the joints not being even and smooth. I have built them 10 to 12 feet long and the problem area is where it connects to something else every time.

[dgwinup]

Pardon me for being dense, George, but I don't understand exactly what you are asking.

Even in HO, a rise of 6" isn't that great a height. I'm not sure why you need a nolix. Do you have a track plan you can post here? Maybe that would help my brain to understand.

Darrell, quiet...for now

[claycts]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dgwinup

Pardon me for being dense, George, but I don't understand exactly what you are asking.

Even in HO, a rise of 6" isn't that great a height. I'm not sure why you need a nolix. Do you have a track plan you can post here? Maybe that would help my brain to understand.

Darrell, quiet...for now

Darrell it is simple, that is what they want FOR looks at the end going up to the mine.
Track plan, in that area, goes from the smalll town (52") up to the mine cut off (58"). THen a siding with the main line going on.
This is cosmetics but must work. Most engines rea Brass and heavy so soild is a must.

[SpaceMouse]

I too, would like to see a plan or picture. I'm sure I can come up with a solution if I had a better idea of what I am dealing with.

[cuyama]

Sometimes there is confusion because of the use of terms. "Nolix" has been used to describe a number of different things. The original Nolix was a place-name on a John Armstrong plan where a long visible turnback curve (like a horseshoe curve) had been used to eliminate a helix. A lot of people seem to be using the term now to describe an around-the-room-helix in which the track climbs as it progresses along the walls to reach the next level.

If what you are building is a ramp from one benchwork level to another, you definitely do not want joints at the start and end of the grade. Those should be areas where the subroadbed should be really solid (cookie-cutter, spline, etc.) because that's where you need to have a gentle vertical transition curve.

I've seen and heard of some bad experiences with OSB, so I'm a firm believer in plywood instead. Others have had good luck with spline, but the bottom line is that you need the fewest possible joints (and back them with a mending plate of the same material) and try to avoid a joint exactly at the beginning and end of the grade.

Regards,

Byron

[Medina1128]

I avoided the no-lix just for the room they take up. I went from base level to 7 inches using a single grade that is hidden behind scenery. I can still access it from below for cleaning, maintenance, etc. But, the most important part is, which has already been mentioned, to avoid starting or ending the transition at a joint. I made my grade using 1/2" plywood strips 3" wide and made sure the the starting and ending points were at least 12" from any rise or lowering section to smoothen out the transition. If you have a joint at the either the start or end, you pretty much guarantee yourself trouble (derailments; especially with steam locomotives, cars uncoupling, etc.). Once the transition started, I supported it with 1/2 plywood strip. I used risers made from 1x2 to support it, and used a torpedo level to make sure it was level across the length. Save yourself more grief by using screws to attach your risers to the benchwork, to make it easier to adjust once it's all in place. If you have a curve in the transition, make it level as well, then shim your track under the outside edge of the track (superelevation).