Flex Track Question

[Howardr]

Hello,

I have a few pieces of 36" flex track and I'd like to connect them to other pieces of straight snap track (HO).

I noticed that they don't have rail joiners and when I tried to push one on to the rail I couldn't because the ending tie was getting in the way.

Before I mess up the track I'd like some suggestions as how to get the rail joiners on to the flex track...is there a way without cuting up the end rail tie?

Thanks[:I]

[lesterperry]

Use an xacto knife and cut the rail loose from the cleats by sliding the knife between the rail and the first tie. This will allow room for the connector unless you are using a plastic insulating connector. If this is the case you will have to remove one tie and replace it after the track is in place with something thin enough to slide under it.

[ARTHILL]

When you bend the flex, the rails will not be even. If you are using the flex together that is ok. When you get back to the snap you will have to cut the long rail. Be sure it is exactly where you want it before you cut. If you change the curve even a little it will change the rail length. If you have never done this before, there are other tricks to the trade. If you only wanted to know about the joiners and ties, lesterperry gave you the good answer.

[XMarine]

Not only do I use "lesterperry"'s answer, but I go a step further. I remove all of the spike and tie plate molded on the tie the rail ends on. In a curved piece this could mean different ties for each rail. I have found that doing this makes the joiner slide on without lifting the rail. And as "arthill" stated on cutting, be sure the rail is where you want it to end up at or you will have problems. If the joint is on a curve, I will take a pair of pliers and add a small gentle bend to the rail end. That way the rails will line up better, but be careful to not bend too much - could kink the curve.

[dehusman]

The easiest way to cut flex track is with a pair of 'flush cutting pliers" You can buy them a better hobby shops, through MicroMark and at Radio Shack. Cut the rail with the flat side toward the part you want to keep and the angled side towards the "waste" portion. I remove the end ties and then after the track is in place, file the spike heads and tie plates off a group of two or three scrap ties and then just slip them under the rail joiners in the gap in the ties. Quick easy adn after the track is painted or ballasted, you'll never notice the difference.

Dave H.

[nbrodar]

I remove the end ties. After the track is laid and any joints soldered, I carve off the tie plate/spike off the spare ties, and slip them back under the joint.

Nick

[twcenterprises]

If using snap track, I take it a step further. I cut off the weird "tie extension" pieces and slip a extra tie from flextrak under the joint. These would need to be thinned down under the rail joiner to avoid making a "bump" in the track. I use a tacky adhesive type of roadbed instead of cork (NOT the AMI stuff, something similar but not as tacky), so the offending thicker ties can simply be pushed deeper into the roadbed to allow for a level joint.

Brad