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My first N-Scale layout used all Peco code 80 turnouts. In the 1980s, when I started it, they were about the best thing around for reliability. However: 1. They are not precisely in guage. I shimmed the guard rails on them .010" styrene to solve that problem 2. Over time, the "power routing" fails because a little bit of dirt or corrosion will keep the point rails from making good contact. 3. They are very "chunky" with big ties, big rails, and outrageous tie spacing, at least by today's standards. In my current layout, begun 2 years ago, I am using all Micro Engineering Code 55. In my opinion, there is nothing better. Solving the DCC problem might be a bit of a pain, (I don't use DCC), but I'd still do it. I also connected a microswitch under the table, linked to the throwbar, on every turnout, to carry the current to the two diverging routes. I am not relying on the point rails to complete the circuit like I did with the Peco turnouts. Nearly all my turnouts are hand-thrown with Caboose Industries ground throws. But I do have a few that are operated by Tortoise machines or Switchcraft machines. On these, I still just mounted a microswitch to route the current. BTW, the Switchcraft are much better, MUCH quieter machines. I was disappointed at how noisy the one Tortoise was, so I won't be using another one. I didn't use the Atlas code 55 because of the flange problem. I would convert my rolling stock, and there are replacement wheelsets for some common diesels, but for some of my steam locomotive, many of which are semi-scratchbuilt and remotored, I'd be looking at turning down driver flanges. Besides, the Micro Engineering track does look better. "Most" of the turnouts are guaged perfectly. But believe it or not, I've had a few, even in the ME, where I had to file the insides of the stock rails and the point rails to "open up" the guage a little, because they were a tad narrow (which can be a real problem with long-wheelbase steam locomotives!) The only downsides to using ME are that they really only make a #6 turnout (no crossings, no #8, etc), and it is expensive (about $13-$14 per turnout, $4 - $5 per section of flextrack). But if you are patient and built up slowly, it's well worth it, in my opinion.
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