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Ballasting switches

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: United States of America
  • 18 posts
Ballasting switches
Posted by WisconsinCentral on Friday, November 18, 2005 11:47 PM
Hello,

How do you ballast a switch without jamming it?

Thanks,
Douglas H,
New Brighton, MN
Long live the Soo Line, WC, SD45s, and any remaining standard cab EMDs on todays class 1s!
  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: CSXT/B&O Flora IL
  • 1,937 posts
Posted by waltersrails on Saturday, November 19, 2005 9:42 AM
Well lets just say very very carefully. Just pour out very little ballest on it. and use a a
very thin paint bru***o get it where you want it and make sure before you pour what every type of mixer on it. be sure you got any loose ballest out of where the track swiches.
I like NS but CSX has the B&O.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Saturday, November 19, 2005 10:28 AM
Don't ballast where there are moving parts, is the simplest answer to your question. Even real railroads don't use as much ballast in areas of the turnout points as in other areas.
  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: oregon
  • 885 posts
Posted by oleirish on Saturday, November 19, 2005 11:02 AM
A trick that might help is to use 3in1 oil on contacts and pivot points before ballasting,just incase you slip on the glue a little!!It works for me!
JIM
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • 1,168 posts
Posted by dgwinup on Saturday, November 19, 2005 7:53 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by oleirish

A trick that might help is to use 3in1 oil on contacts and pivot points before ballasting,just incase you slip on the glue a little!!It works for me!
JIM


Really good idea! You don't want any ballast migrating under the points and keeping the points from fully closing.

Darrell, quiet...for now
Darrell, quiet...for now
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Michigan
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Posted by rolleiman on Sunday, November 20, 2005 1:29 AM
Many years ago (mid-late 1980s) Kalmbach did a series of videos on How To... One for scenery, one for building wood structures, one for track, etc.. By now they are all ancient and probably worn out from viewing but the point of my post is,

When ballasting a turnout, you want to keep as much away from the moving parts as possible.. On the video, presenter Gordon Odegard suggested using a soda straw to blow any stray ballast away from the points and other moving areas to avoid gluing everything together.

Good luck,
Jeff
Modeling the Wabash from Detroit to Montpelier Jeff
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Clinton, MO, US
  • 4,261 posts
Posted by Medina1128 on Sunday, November 20, 2005 3:05 PM
I like the straw idea. How about a coffee straw? It's a lot smaller.
  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Mississippi
  • 819 posts
Posted by ukguy on Sunday, November 20, 2005 3:18 PM
Douglas here is a link that I posted a while ago on the same subject, many good answers here.

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=33856

And here are my results



Main advice I can give is just take your time, there is no deadline, and you will be happier with the results.

Have fun and be safe,
Karl.
  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
  • 1,317 posts
Posted by Seamonster on Monday, November 21, 2005 9:51 AM
One idea I've heard of, but not tried, is to put tape over the bottom of the turnout. Then you put ballast between the ties and vacuum up or blow away whatever doesn't stick to the tape. No glue to migrate into the points and jam them. Of course, you have to make sure you don't tape over the throwbar. Maybe someone who has actually tried this can comment on it.

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

  • Member since
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 21, 2005 10:38 AM
You beat me to it, Seamonster. But I will say that you should use Duct tape as it tends to be more aggressive in the adhesion department. My friend did this and it worked out swell. He put the tape on the back of the switch and then poured the ballast onto the tape, gave it a good tamp down with his hands, dumped the loose ballast back into the bag. Then he mounted the switch on his layout. Worked (and is still working)like a charm.

TrainClown ;)
  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: Guelph, Ont.
  • 1,476 posts
Posted by BR60103 on Monday, November 21, 2005 8:31 PM
I suggest using coarse sandpaper or similar under the points area and then building up. CN takes the ballast at the points right down to the bottom of the ties.

(Hi trainclown!)

--David

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: United States of America
  • 18 posts
Posted by WisconsinCentral on Sunday, November 27, 2005 9:43 AM
Hi all,

Thank you for your tips. I ballasted some switches last night. It took about 45 per switch, but it looked great when it was all done.

Douglas
http://wc_sd45_7500.rrpicturearchives.net
Long live the Soo Line, WC, SD45s, and any remaining standard cab EMDs on todays class 1s!
  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: CSXT/B&O Flora IL
  • 1,937 posts
Posted by waltersrails on Saturday, December 31, 2005 11:19 AM
med like the pics
I like NS but CSX has the B&O.

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