Painting Help

[Anonymous]

Hello,

I am painting a Athearn 50' Box Car (Undecorated). This will be my 2nd attempt, as the first one fell into a total disaster, and Im throwing it away (Long story). The paint I am using is Reefer WhitePoly Scale Paint. The problem I am having is since the car is black, and the paint is white, it seems to want to take several coats of paint to make it white (I got frustrated after 5 coats and I saw a faint shade of white). I am using a fairly good brush for the job.

I have 2 questions though?

1. Should I be priming the model, and what would be recommended?

2. Is air brushing easier. I have an air brush, but no cartridge for it.

I dont foresee myself painting any more rail road cars in the future. Its mainly just a Christmas gift for our department at work.

thanks for any tips and help.

DON

[selector]

Most definitely, yes, prime it with Krylon acrylic flat primer. Most definitely, yes, air brushing produces superior results.

[colvinbackshop]

Everything Crandell just said!!!
And...One additional thought: Wash your cars, locos, structures....what ever, with warm water and a drop or two of dish washing detergent, then rinse and dry well before painting.

[Anonymous]

I just use cheap spray paint primer, about $1-$2 at lowes. The allows the paint to stick rather than just slide off the smooth plastic. If you prime it you should need no more than 2 coats, maybe 3.

[nbrodar]

After priming, you also might want to try white paint in a spray can. Most model paint makers, have their most popular colors avalable in spray cans. Testor's the brand most widely avalable. The regular Testors is OK. The Model Master series is great.

Nick

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by donnyn2001
The paint I am using is Reefer WhitePoly Scale Paint. The problem I am having is since the car is black, and the paint is white, it seems to want to take several coats of paint to make it white (I got frustrated after 5 coats and I saw a faint shade of white). I am using a fairly good brush for the job.

Are you certain the paint is mixed well? I did this once. Shook the bottle for about a minute and painted a way. I thought it was a little thin. When I got to the bottom of the jar I discovered there was still about 1/16" of thick paint in the bottom. I was basically "whitewashing".

QUOTE: 1. Should I be priming the model, and what would be recommended?

As everyone else has already said, yes. I like Krylon primer. Some of the other cheaper brands I've tried end up with a rough texture that I have to sand with 1000 grit or steel wool to get smooth again.

QUOTE:
2. Is air brushing easier. I have an air brush, but no cartridge for it.

Yes. but it won't take any fewer coats without priming.

[snowey]

if you don't want to use an airbrush, you can also use spray cans.

[ndbprr]

There are some tips you learn as you go. When painting a car either with a spray can or an airbrush and you are trying to put a light color over a dark color there are two ways. One is to use an intermediate color primer to cover first. Floquil makes one that is gray but it uses a solvent and should be used with the usual cautions. The other way is to lay down a thin coat of the color and ait for it to get tacky before laying down the next coat. Do that two or three times and it will cover very well.

[Anonymous]

An old painting tip from my warhammer days applies here. When painting light colours such as White and Yellow, use a light coloured primer. For dark colors use a dark primer. White on white will be vibrant (until you weather it). White on black just look sad.

Hope this helps a little,
Trevor

[selector]

QUOTE: Originally posted by TrevorG

An old painting tip from my warhammer days applies here. When painting light colours such as White and Yellow, use a light coloured primer. For dark colors use a dark primer. White on white will be vibrant (until you weather it). White on black just look sad.

Hope this helps a little,
Trevor

I will remember that. Thanks, Trev.

-Crandell