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How do I know if a train will climb a slope?
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Some suggestions for your layout: <br /> <br />1. Use flex track instead of snap track. It costs less, looks better, and allows you to gently ease the curves. You'll find that the trains will run more smoothly within the same amount of area. I use cork roadbed under the flex track, nailed initially, and then ballast the track and pull the nails when I'm done. <br /> <br />2. On elevated track the flex of the benchwork is a major problem. It's even more important to have stiff benchwork on an elevated section of track than on a flat layout. I had a portable layout built on 1/2" plywood that would creak and groan as you moved it. It's scary to hear your trackwork creak! I'd use either 1/2" plywood or 3/4" plywood well supported with 2X4's for support and stiffening. <br /> <br />The layout I'm building now uses 3/4" plywood and 2X4 studs every 16-20" for support. Can I climb on it? Yes, I'm doing it while I build the layout. Will I climb on it when it's completed? Probably on an occasional basis. <br /> <br />Larger curves are a BIG plus, but you have to work with the space you have available. My curves right now vary between 18" and 34", with the 18" restricted to inside the planned switchyard. My last layout had 2 18" curves, and could handle pulling trains through them, althought they looked a little funny. <br /> <br />If you have to use 4% grades, don't plan on running steam engines. They just don't have much tractive effort. Disels can be tricked up to pull a lot more if needed by replacing wheels and adding weight. <br /> <br />Mark in Utah
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