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Code 83 track

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  • Member since
    April 2003
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Code 83 track
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, November 3, 2005 4:56 AM
Hi. I'm working in HO scale. Is it possible to connect code 100 and code 83 track and still have it be functional. I've never tried this before but I received some code 83 track for almost nothing. I realize it isn't going to look quite right but I'm not concerned with that right now.
Thanks, Dave
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Jarrell, Texas
  • 1,114 posts
Posted by Tom Bryant_MR on Thursday, November 3, 2005 6:03 AM
Check your LHS. I saw some joiners or pieces of track that allowed one to go from one code to another.

Tom

  • Member since
    January 2002
  • From: Nova Scotia
  • 825 posts
Posted by BentnoseWillie on Thursday, November 3, 2005 6:12 AM
Peco and Atlas both make transition rail joiners that let you go from C100 to C83, and Walthers makes a 6" piece of transition track.
B-Dubya -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Inside every GE is an Alco trying to get out...apparently, through the exhaust stack!
  • Member since
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  • From: US
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Posted by cmrproducts on Thursday, November 3, 2005 6:23 AM
You can take a metal rail jointer and install it on the code 100 track and then the end that is sticking out just take a pair of pliers and squeeze the end down slightly on the jointer.

Then lay the code 83 trail on top of the jointer and check it. You may have to squeeze the jointer a little flatter to get the code 83 tail to meet the code 100 rail in height. If you get it a little too low just bent the jointer on the code 83 end up or down to adjust so the rail heights match.

Then solder the rail and jointer.

BOB H - Clarion, PA
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, November 3, 2005 6:39 AM
Thanks Guys, I didn't know they made transition joiners but I found them on the Walthers site. I think I'll try your idea first Bob. If I can't get it to work I'll order some of the Atlas transition Joiners. Thanks to all.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, November 3, 2005 1:43 PM
I simply line up the rails flu***o each other and then shim the code 83 until it is at the right height. Then I spike the heck out of both pieces and butt solder them using acid flux (clean the fux off after) The reason for acid flux is that it solders real quick and produces a good bond. No need for the joiner at all. The spikes hold the rails in place. I have used Bob's method as weli, but the one I describe is quicker and requires less fiddling and grinding. I don't depend on this junction to conduct current.
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 6, 2005 12:48 PM
Hi Dave,
Montville huh? I'm in Uncasville myself. Are you a member of the Mohegan & Pequot MRR club? Email me offlist, we Montvillians should stick together!


http://hometown.aol.com/hdgdn/index.html
  • Member since
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  • From: San Jose, CA
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Posted by DALCruiser on Sunday, November 6, 2005 8:50 PM
Trainnut1250,

Unless you're making an electrical connection between these two rails somewhere else, your asking for trouble using acid flux for soldering. It will cause corrosion and a bad electrical joint. This is an electronics rule. Never use acid flux when making an electrical connections!!

Dave
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    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 6, 2005 9:51 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by DALCruiser

Trainnut1250,

Unless you're making an electrical connection between these two rails somewhere else, your asking for trouble using acid flux for soldering. It will cause corrosion and a bad electrical joint. This is an electronics rule. Never use acid flux when making an electrical connections!!

Dave


I am definately making a connection somewhere else for power.....There are lots of us who use acid flux and clean it off after soldering trackwork without corrosion problems The key is to wash off the flux........I use rosin core on electrical connections however.
  • Member since
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  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 7, 2005 10:34 AM
Try using one of these by Walthers. I bought one, but I haven't used it yet. By the looks of it, it should work better than transition joiners.

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/948-897

Frank

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