Track nails

[ndbprr]

Building the PRR through a portion of Philly and this entails six mainline tracks plus yards and sidings so it is a lot of track. Fortunately code 100 is the right rail and can be had fairly cheaply from Atlas from a couple of sources. The problem is Atlas insists on that dumb hole in the center of the tie for securing the track which require a headed brad. Has anybody developed any foolproof ways to repeatedly set the nails at the perfect height? I am thinking a gauge of some type and have even considered a device that would have two legs that fit between the ties to limit a block when it strikes the head of the nail. Any thoughts?

[Blind Bruce]

I was going to use track nails when I first started my HO flextrack layout. But, as time and experience went on, I decided to only pin the track temporarily while the Elmers dilution set up. Then, I removed the nails and filled the holes with undiluted glue. They are barely noticeable now.
BB

[ARTHILL]

I glue the track down with latex caulk. I will fill the holes if they bother me. When I have to nail, I find that practiced skill with my little hammer is more reliable than any jig I have tried.
This is a craft and that is one of the skill I am trying to learn.

[gmpullman]

I always use a "nail set" to make the last few taps into the tie. It avoids any accidental blows with the hammer damaging the rail. I'm using the Walthers (Shinohara) code 83 which has nail holes near the base of the rail but I have to pre-drill the spike holes with a pin vice and maybe a .020 bit first. I find the round headed atlas spikes to be more secure than the bent-over headed type.

[Anonymous]

I have pushed the nails in with a pair of needle nose pliers in holes I drilled. Works great. I only use this method on hidden track. You won't catch me pounding on the benchwork. I use spikes in the visible track...

[dgwinup]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Blind Bruce

I was going to use track nails when I first started my HO flextrack layout. But, as time and experience went on, I decided to only pin the track temporarily while the Elmers dilution set up. Then, I removed the nails and filled the holes with undiluted glue. They are barely noticeable now.
BB

I agree with Bruce. Nails are not the best way to attach track to a layout. The adhesives work better (more contact area = stronger hold) and the adhesive won't distort the track the way a mis-hammered nail will.

Just a couple of pennies from my treasure box (my 2 cents worth!).

Darrell, quiet...for now

[Leon Silverman]

The problem with fastening the track thru the holes provided results in "kinky" curves unless your trainroom is maintained at a constant temperature and humidity all year long. The alternately short and long spacing between the holes results in alternately sharp and shallow curve radii due to the fact that the track cannot respond to environmental changes where is is nailed down but can react where it is unfastened. This is one reason why you will find that the preferred method of securing the track is with a continuous ribbon of adhesive. The curved track either does not move at all or moves uniformly, avoiding the kinks.

[Anonymous]

I pu***he nails in by hand using a larger nail set that has a concave head. I even used it several years ago to nail the track directly to plywood on my first layout.

Pushing track nails into cork is quite easy.

Mark in Utah