turnout radius (newbie)

[Anonymous]

Greetings,

I have found myself unable to determine the proper radius for the return
portion of a turnout. The switches being uses are Atlas #83 (18"
radius). My question is if I have a right hand switch, how much track
must I off the turnout before I can bring the track back parallel with
the main line? I assume this has something to do with the length of cars
that will be used, but am not sure.

The layout I am considering is "Rock Island & Moline Belt Line" which
can be found in the TrainPlayer beta, but it does not include
dimensions. If someone is familiar with the layout, the turnout I am
having trouble with is the one closest to the lower right hand corner of
the layout, by the 0" marker.

Please let me know if I am not communicating my question clearly.

[selector]

Welcome to the forum, shortlong.

You seem to have a syntax error in your question about "...how much track must I off...", so I am unclear as to your question.

Whatever type of turnout you use, to return to a parallel orientation with the through rails, you simple reverse the curve, but due to the "substitution radius" that goes through the frog from the diverging closure and diverging rails, your 18" radius switch will need a different radius, I believe, to effect that parallel orientation.

Take the switch to your hobby store and try different radii. My guess is that a 22" radius will be close.

Not sure if that addresses your question.

[Anonymous]

Selector,

Thanks for the reply. It should have read “how much track
must I have after the turnout before I can bring the track back parallel with
the main line”

I also was in error by calling the switch an “Atlas #83” as it is a Code 83 #541, but you probably knew that -stink’n noob’s, what will you do with us :)

Your information did inspire me to look further than my local shop as they only carry the 18” switches. I did find that Atlas sells Custom Turnout products that provide a more reasonable turnout for my application.

Thanks for your help!

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by shortlong
“how much track must I have after the turnout before I can bring the track back parallel with the main line”
...
I did find that Atlas sells Custom Turnout products that provide a more reasonable turnout for my application.

Ah, to answer the original question... it depends on how far apart you want the parallel track to be. Generally you don't want any less than 2" between parallel tracks, this is what you would get if you just connected them directly together with nothing between.

If you want 2 1/4" between tracks that would require:
1 1/2" straight between the custom line #4, or
1" straight between the custom line #6.

If you want 3" between tracks that would require:
6" straight between the custom line #4, or
4 1/2" straight between the custom line #6.

[BR60103]

Is this for a passing siding? you'll need a curve to match the curve of the switch, which I think is about 2/3 of a regular curve. (You get a 1/3 curve with the switch.) I think that combination already takes you beyond the 2" parallel. That will give you a severe S curve, however it's better than adding a straight track in in a lot of cases. A straight would spread your siding a bit more.

[Anonymous]

Ok, picked up some custom #6 turnouts. Moved the flex until cars passed comfortably with one track being slightly elevated (max 3/4" at this parallel) and the other at 0. I wanted enough room for hands to easily grab a car so my distance between rails is 2-3/8”

It takes 12” from the “v” (not sure what this portion is called) in the switch until both tracks are parallel. Not sure what the radius is, rather large for measuring. Should I decrease the radius or does it matter?

[selector]

The two "v's" that point to each other is called the "frog".

What you describe seems fine....assuming you are talking from track-centre to track-centre once they run parallel again? If you mean between rails, that is a bit far apart.

Why the elevation?

[BR60103]

You can also fake the track layout by putting a second turnout facing the one you have and drawing the rails on it. That gives you the same formation as in the turnout and the same radius. Don't sweat it, though. Wide is good.