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testing the new track with train ??

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  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Canada
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testing the new track with train ??
Posted by wickman on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 10:37 AM
ok seems to be different views on this subject


I've been testing the track with a couple trains with about 5-7 cars hooked up one on one main line and the other on another main I will go around and round for a while then if no derails I will go in reverse pushing the cars and if that worked ok I would change going on the same 2 main lines but take a different route thru the double ended yrd

1 should a train run just as well in reverse as it does forward pushing cars compared to pulling
I had one very short car that kept coming off going in reverse and I thru a bunch of screws in the box hold and it was better ( obviously too lite


2 When u test a track how fast should u be going
and how do you know if its the correct speed like is there a way of telling what kind of speed your going I realize that model trains are just like the real thing and should be driven with comparable speed limits


I've been filing joints here and there and its getting better-> inside of rail and top of rail

I have a few joints that r not lined up perfect but this is on the turnouts only where something has to be sacrificed because one straight on rail will line up perfect where as the curved part of turnout will not be perfect.

3. I also have one loco that when pushing the cars up a grade jumps if I push down on it a bit it will go it will also go if I just leave it

So can someone give me some direction for these questions and procedure s for testing track with trains for the final results of no derails
Lynn
  • Member since
    November 2001
  • From: US
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Posted by Javern on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 10:54 AM
I tend to run test trains for long periods of time at various speeds. WIth a few cars then if all ok I hook up long trains. I let them run hours while I work on other parts of the layout. I expect them to run backwards as well as forwards, if not I try to make adjustments, diff wheels, more weight, file points, etc. I feel well layed track and properly tuned cars and engines should run well front/backwards, and at the speeds I normally run at.

Here is a link on how to measure scale speeds

http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/construction/lsbuild/scale-speed.html
  • Member since
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  • From: Phoenixville, PA
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Posted by nbrodar on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 11:13 AM
I start off with a light engine, then add cars. Use a variety of cars, box cars track differently from intermodal cars, and passenger cars. I also test with different locomotives (RS3s are very different from 4-8-4 J class steamers). Vary the speed and direction too, sometimes a flaw is only apparent at slow speed, sometimes at mainline speed, or going left to right or right to left.

Nick

Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/

  • Member since
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Posted by dgwinup on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 1:15 PM
Lynn,

Ideally, a train should run as well in reverse as it does going forward. Having all your equipment up to NMRA standards is important for reliable operation. Correctly weighted cars and engines, properly gauged wheels and track and generally good trackwork will result in fewer problems.

When you test a track, test it at various speeds with various equipment. Large and small equipment often have differences in performance because of their lengths. Try as many variations of engines and cars as you can. Mix them up and see how well they perform.

Track joints are critical. If you have some joints that are misaligned, you need to correct them. Joints should be smooth, with no bumps or kinks in them. I know it's a lot of work, but you need to repair those places where the joints are not perfect, even if that means re-doing some of your trackwork. You will never eliminate trouble as long as you have bad joints, and you will never be happy with your operation until it performs well. Joints leading into and out of turnouts are THE most critical joints on the layout. Using sectional track sometimes leaves less-than-perfect joints. If you are using sectional track, consider replacing some of it with flex track. Flex track allows you to fit the track to the layout without the limitations of fixed-length and fixed-radius sectional track.

The loco that jumps up may have a problem. Sometimes the power truck is too loose and allows the loco to jump. If it happens in the same location all the time, it might be a track problem. Locos with only one powered truck will often jump up when moving in one direction but not in the other direction. Since you are pushing up a grade, the weight of the loco could also be a factor, especially so if the loco only has one powered truck. More weight over the powered truck will help.

Hope these suggestions help. Spend the time, effort and money to get your trackwork as perfect as you can. You will be rewarded with smooth, trouble-free operation.

Darrell, quiet...for now
Darrell, quiet...for now
  • Member since
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  • From: Canada
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Posted by wickman on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 1:25 PM
If a train runs forever in both directions at a descent pace say not fast fast would I be over reacting ? Also I gotta find a place that sells track gauges, NMRA standards guage and a Kadee coupler hieght gauge any lnks available ?
Lynn[:)]
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    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 1:34 PM
I use my touchiest locomotive to test track. Some locomotives like Athearn Blue Boxes operate well on less than perfect track work. Others, like Stewarts or Walthers Trainline, need near perfect trackwork. If these locomotives can handle forward/reverse facing both ways at a relatively high speed pulling some old Tyco cars with the coupler on the trucks then I've done my job. Most derails occur going into and out of turnouts.

Sometimes derails are not the fault of the track but the couplers.
  • Member since
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  • From: Canada
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Posted by wickman on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 2:04 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by RevMattCNJ

I use my touchiest locomotive to test track. Some locomotives like Athearn Blue Boxes operate well on less than perfect track work. Others, like Stewarts or Walthers Trainline, need near perfect trackwork. If these locomotives can handle forward/reverse facing both ways at a relatively high speed pulling some old Tyco cars with the coupler on the trucks then I've done my job. Most derails occur going into and out of turnouts.

Sometimes derails are not the fault of the track but the couplers.

thats a good bit of info are the blue box locos a good loco I hear they are and I do intend on changeing the couplers over to kd 's from horn hook
  • Member since
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Posted by Javern on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 2:07 PM
Hobby Stores both online and local sell the gauges, also www.walthers.com
  • Member since
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Posted by howmus on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 2:50 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by wickman

Also I gotta find a place that sells track gauges, NMRA standards guage and a Kadee coupler hieght gauge any lnks available ?
Lynn[:)]


Virtually all LHS will have them. Online you can try these for a start:
http://www.walthers.com/

http://www.internettrains.com/

http://www.micromark.com/

Ray Seneca Lake, Ontario, and Western R.R. (S.L.O.&W.) in HO

We'll get there sooner or later! 

  • Member since
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  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
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Posted by selector on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 4:14 PM
I use the loco that has the longest wheel base in fixed drivers (I'm in steam). If that loco can take the frogs and curves and points, plus any transitions or superelevations, then the chances are good everything else will do okay. Sometimes, though, a passenger car will show me that my confidence was premature.

As the others have said, once you can run a full train with your heaviest and longest wheel-bases in both directions, twice in a row, without a derailment, you have reached the 95% solution.

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