some average starting dimentions?

[Anonymous]

Hey guys, I have just gotten my preperations finished, and am almost ready to start some construction on my first length of benchwork to my new layout..

My questions are, whats a good overall higth and depth to a starting bench style layout? I have a general thought of about 33-36'' High, and about that deep as well..

What do you guys start with? ( giving you have room to make the depth and higth you want, of course :) )

-added edit-
Im going to start with 1x4 construction, 3/8 ply decking surface, with 2'' foam on top.

[nbrodar]

The big question is how tall are you. As I grew I went from a 33" high layout, to 40" and now 48". Most people can comfortably reach between 24 and 30"

These are my guidelines:

• Benchwork no deeper then 30"


• Track height around 48" off floor.


• Walkways no narrower then 24"; 36" where ever possible.

Nick

[Anonymous]

well, Im basicly 6'

I really asked this because my fathers layouts were always generally prety high off the ground, cant remember how high, for certain.. but I cant get ahold of him atm to ask him why he always built the dec so tall.

He is shorter than I am.. probly 5' 8''

[bogp40]

The reason for the height of many layouts is for viewing aspect. Most don't want to see their trains from an aerial prospective. Taller layouts are more trouble to work on, but build the height that you are comfortable with. Will you ever plan on lower level for staging and the like should also be considered.
Bob K.

[selector]

The general rule is that the surface of the layout should be at the height of your sternum, where your bottom ribs meet at that bump. Then, you have a choice of standing to get an overhead view when you want it, and sitting to get a ground-level view to watch your trains thunder past.

You don't need any ply with 2" foam (unless you are talking unsupported spans of 8-10 feet).

[dgwinup]

Dain,

Your Dad built the layout so high because he wanted to view trains at or close to eye-level. This enhances the realism, as opposed to always seeing your layout from a birds-eye view.

The height of your layout is entirely a personal choice. If you like the feeling of ruling over your kingdom from on high, build the deck lower. If you like seeing trains up close and personal, build it higher. There are tradeoffs. Shorter layouts are easier to work on scenery, trackwork, etc., but are more difficult to wire from below. Kids can see them better, too. Taller layouts are harder to scenic and make repairs and kids often need a stool to see to the back of the layout. Taller layouts are usually a little easier to wire from below because there is more room to work with under the layout.

In general, the width of your layout is dictated by your reach. Working on the far edge of the layout, or even just re-railing some cars on the far rail line is difficult if your reach puts you off balance or makes you strain. It is easy to damage scenery by having to reach too far. 30" is often quoted as the farthest desirable limit, and that works for most people. Short reaches should be a primary goal of your layout plan.

As to your construction methods, you may not need the plywood under the 2" foam. If you make your framework with crossmembers every 12" to 16", your foam will have plenty of support and the plywood is unnecessary. Cutting through plywood only or foam only is very easy to do. With plywood underneath foam, you will always have to deal with cutting or drilling through both at one time. This often can be difficult to do without damaging one or the other.

When using 2" foam, in HO or larger scales, use 1" x 4" lumber for framing and 1" x 3" lumbr for crossmembers. In N and Z scales, you can use 1" x 3" lumber for framing, 1" x 2" lumber for crossmembers. Use the smallest lumber you can to reduce the total weight and cost of your layout.

Hope this information helps you out. Don't hesitate to ask more questions of the forum. The rule of thumb here is that the only dumb question is the one that isn't asked.

Have fun.

Darrell, quiet...for now

Nick's guidelines are a good starting point. Modify them to suit your needs.

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys,

After cutting some starter rips on the table saw, and getting a visual and all, I have decided to go with a 40'' bench, with the 3" Foam. (thought it was only 2")

Because I plan to move this thing in sections within a couple years, I am building this benchwork from 3/4 ply. I have a design in mind that should hold extremly strong and true, but also giving a lighter end result to the table.

Using 1x4 hardwood birch legs, the rest will be 4" rips of high grade 3/4 Ply. My design uses different reinforcement cross members to both strengthen and keep the plywood in alignment.

Although I am still working out a few angles on the entire thing, I also have a website in construction to keep images of the start to finish layout. It will end up U shape, having one length of 22' x 36'', 90 degree 9' x 36" (giving a total of 12' on that end) and 90 degree again to another 15' length. Ending up if straight, to about a 40' x 36" layout. Of course I am building in sections at a time!

Thanks for the help, hope this ply construction works out like I plan..

[MisterBeasley]

My layout is at about 38 inches high, and it's a free-standing table 5x12 feet. (There's a 45-degree ceiling I had to clear, or I would have gone higher.) I'm 5 foot 10, myself. With a 5-foot wide layout, the maximum reach to the center is 2 and a half feet, or 30 inches. That is just about the furthest useful reach for me. I can get a few inches further for picking up a derailed car, etc., but for putting in track or scenery, any more would be practically unworkable.

You might want to consider cut-ins in a couple of places so you can get to the back of the layout.

[nbrodar]

Dian

I use plywood construction. And I'll never go back. A couple things though, plywood doesn't hold screws to well in the end grain. So I use an air nailer in place of screws. Instead of 1x4 for legs, I rip down 2x4's. They are cheaper, and sturdier.

You also might want to conscider using wall mounted brackets, too. I used them for my new section, like them alot. The underside of the layout is much more open then with the legs and associated bracing.

Nick

[dgwinup]

Dian,

The extruded foam is available in several thicknesses from 1/4" up to 4" (that I know of).

Using plywood is a good idea if you have the tools to work with it. You may want to consider putting some triangle-shaped brackets in the corners, since, as Nick points out, plywood doesn't hold screws well in end grain. Plywood will also split easily if the screw holes aren't pre-drilled. The brackets will add considerable strength to the layout sections without adding a lot of weight. Since you plan on moving it at some time, you will appreciate the extra strength.

Plywood, and OSB (oriented strand board), are often used nowadays to make floor joists. A slot is cut into the wide face of 2x4" lumber and a piece of plywood or OSB is sandwiched between the 2x4's. It looks like a steel 'H' girder beam, but made of wood. It can span longer distances with less deflection than a similar sized piece of dimensional lumber. The key to the strength of this construction is the joints made at right angles (plywood in slots between the 2x4's). Duplicate this key method and you will have much stronger construction with less material and weight.

Hope these suggestions help.

Darrell, quiet for now