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Okay Now What? NScale

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Okay Now What? NScale
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 9:32 AM
I'm building a little C55 test track after a few (!) years out of the hobby and this styrofoam (Pink or Blue board) seems to be the way to go.

The question(s) being (and I've posed this question elsewhere as well).

1. I've got the pink board bonded to my 1X4. How best to secure the cork roadbed to that? Should I use Liquid Nails? White glue? Or something else?

2. Now, once that is done, What about the rail? What should I use for that? Liquid Nails? White glue? Or something else?

Just trying to get a consensus (Ha Ha). Or a feel for what others have done.

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Posted by cacole on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 9:46 AM
Latex caulking compound would be suitable for both. Be aware that there are different types of Liquid Nails and some of them would dissolve the foam. If you use Liquid Nails, be sure you get the one that says it is safe to use on styrofoam.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 10:01 AM
Before I used styrene first I tried a variety of thingson a test track. Liquid Nails tended to be too 'goopy' and I got an uneven layer. White glue worked, yellow caprenters glue was a litlte better, but the best was Latex caulk. I can't find the tube now, but I think it was a DAP product which was tacky enough to use as an adhesive when I was putting in some crown moulding! I ran the bead along the track centreline and then spread it with a narrow putty knife. It worked like a charm and in over twelve months of daily punishment by my six year old daughter - not a single problem.

John
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Posted by CraigN on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 11:13 AM
I used latex caulk adhesive for foam board for laying the cork directly on plywood. I also used it for laying the track on the cork. I also used a putty knife to spread the adhesive first.

I bought the latex caulk adhesive at Lowes.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 11:29 AM
Does the latex caulk dry clear?
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Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 12:34 PM
QUOTE:
1. I've got the pink board bonded to my 1X4. How best to secure the cork roadbed to that? Should I use Liquid Nails? White glue? Or something else?

I prefer silicone caulk to glue down scenic sub-elements, including roadbed. But I just built two Ntrak modules and used latex caulk throughout, which seems to do just fine.
QUOTE:
2. Now, once that is done, What about the rail? What should I use for that? Liquid Nails? White glue? Or something else?

To glue track to roadbed, I prefer latex caulk.

The difference between 100% latex and 100% silicone caulk (besides the smell) is in how hard a hold the caulks have. Silicone caulk is great because it just won't give up! That's why I use it for gluing foam to foam, and "stuff" to foam. It's the best bond I've found, and I've tried just about everything. It's also nice and inexpensive, as compared to everything but white and wood glue. Latex caulk holds well, but it's easier to remove things if need be. That's why I use it for track (just don't glue down your switches!).

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by jxtrrx on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 4:17 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Jonfromelmcity

Does the latex caulk dry clear?


Yes. You can buy latex caulk that dries clear. It goes on white, but clears when dry. I buy the cheap non-brand-name stuff. I like it because it holds tight, but with some effort I can remove things for changes, mistakes.
-Jack My shareware model railroad inventory software: http://www.yardofficesoftware.com My layout photos: http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a33/jxtrrx/JacksLayout/
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Posted by pcarrell on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 4:50 PM
The latex caulk is the way to go. The cheap stuff is fine. Just spread it kind of thin. You don't want it comming up between the ties (you have to leave room for ballast). Alterations are a snap also. Just use that same putty knife to gently pry up the tracks to make changes (i.e., fix your mess up).

Liquid Nails has a tendency to be a little more "perminant", if you know what I mean. In other words, make sure you do it exactly right the first time...you won't get another chance. The track gets destroyed if you try to take it up!
Philip
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 5:43 PM
Hands down,the best stuff I've used to glue cork to foam is a glue called "Weldbond",most Ace Hardware stores carry it. Regular white glue doesn't stick to foam at all,this stuff works exactly like white glue,but this stuff sticks to anything,it dries clear,and isn't lumpy.It's a little pricey,I usually dilute it 20% or so.I use a paintbru***o put it on,then I use pins to secure the cork till it dries.I also flow it under the track,mixed with a little alcohol,to glue down the track.I usually like to rough up the foam a little with some 80 grit sandpaper first,before I put the cork down.I just dismantled my layout,I tried to save some of the track to at least give it away rather than just discard it,I couldn't get it off!!!One other little trick I like,I use 80 grit paper on a sanding block to smooth out the cork when it's totally dry,and I also like to sand a slight bevel to the inside of curves for a little superelevation.It REALLY makes trains look more realistic on curves since all real curves are banked.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 10, 2005 5:13 PM
Thanks all. I used latex caulk. HD didn't have the clear. So I got the white. But since I'm going to ballast the track anyway whether it's clear or white (or whatever) doesn't really matter, does it?

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