Help!! I am getting so confused...

[Anonymous]

Forgive my ignorance here and the many questions. As this is my first venture in N-scale (I did HO years ago, and also have a G-scale ceiling layout in my office)
I am trying to settle in on what approach to take on my new N-scale layout. Here are a few details, and a couple of questions. I am looking for some experienced mentors here to help me make some good choices before a build.

My primary goals:

1. fun with operating - I will be bringing the layout to my church to try to get kids interested in the hobby. I do a train day in my office once a month and run the G-scale trains, but I want to bring the trains down closer for kids to see and touch therefore the N-scale layout.
2. portability - I want to be able to easily transport it monthly
3. reliability in operation (15 switches on my plan)

Layout: 3' x 6' table top benchwork. Using 1x3's and 2" styrofoam insulation board for the top. 1"x2" braces with a center spline brace. 1"x3"x30" legs using the Atlas benchwork style in their layout book #1.

Q.1 - I have a bunch of atlas flex track. the only identifying markings on the back are other than "Atlas" is" No.2500" I bought the track a few years ago and I am uncertain of the code? I think it's code 80? does anyone know from the number 2500 and the brown ties?

Q.2 - I am thnking of using Peco switches in order to increase reliability of operation. Can I use Peco Insul switches wtih the Atlas flex if it's code 80 flex track? Or would it be better to purchase Peco flex track? Reliabilty is more important to me that proto typical looking.

Q.3 - considering the 2" foam top and the fact that this layout will be transported monthly is it better to utilize Tortoise under table mount switches or Peco under track switches. I am thnking that if I used the peco under track switch by notching out a pocket in the foam top this would provide protection for the switch machine from being jarred loose during transport. But again reliability of operation is high priority and I know that the tortoise switch machines get high marks there. But I am afraid that they could be knocked around in transport since I will be moving the layout so often. I don't know about the reliability of the peco switch machines? As you can see there is where I am very confused. The peco switch machines are half the price of the tortoise? that's good but mama taught me you get what you pay for! So, what to do about switches?

Q.4 - I want to utilize magnetic uncouplers. Would the under track permanent magnets be better or the between the rail magnets?

Q.5 - roadbed: I have some cork roadbed, but was also thinking about using the AMI instant roadbed. What do you think? Reliability of operation and ease of installation is important to me.

Finally, I have been trying to do some price comparrison and right now it seems that 4nscale.com has about the best pricing. Anyone out there have any other suggestions? I have looked at fifferhobby.com; trainsworld.com, tonytrains.com; Red-caboose.com; trainsonline.com; featherrivertrains.com;

Ok, guys, thank you for any help you can offer.

[olequa]

Check out the Hoffmann switch machines at www.aspenmodel.com. They are small, quiet, powerful and a little cheaper than Tortoises. I use the MWA 02 - S which runs off of AC. These cost $11 each. I was also considering embedding these machines in the foam. I think it would work fine. I was going to make a little cover for the cavity that could be sceniced to be invisible, yet still allow access in emergencies.

[Anonymous]

If you want good, cheap operation of your switches, use Caboose Industry ground throws. They are easy to install, cheap, and will last forever.
You can't beat 4NScale as he has great prices and excellent service.
Atlas 2500 is Code 80 rail and will work with Peco switches. Also, Caboose Industry ground throws work well with Peco switches.
Good luck,
gtr

[rolleiman]

QUOTE: Originally posted by gtirr

If you want good, cheap operation of your switches, use Caboose Industry ground throws. They are easy to install, cheap, and will last forever.
You can't beat 4NScale as he has great prices and excellent service.
Atlas 2500 is Code 80 rail and will work with Peco switches. Also, Caboose Industry ground throws work well with Peco switches.
Good luck,
gtr

I was going to suggest the same thing. But, Instead of building a frame, how about a luan interior door?? These are sold in home centers, lumber yards, etc.. Flat slab, ready to go, I'm reasonably certain you can get a 36 inch wide, lightweight and stronger than any 1x3 frame that's going to be easy to transport.. Only thing is, I think the max height is 80 inches. This option would be a little cumbersome if you went the tortise route though..

Jeff

[dgwinup]

QUOTE: Originally posted by pastornick

I
Q.3 - considering the 2" foam top and the fact that this layout will be transported monthly is it better to utilize Tortoise under table mount switches or Peco under track switches. I am thnking that if I used the peco under track switch by notching out a pocket in the foam top this would provide protection for the switch machine from being jarred loose during transport. But again reliability of operation is high priority and I know that the tortoise switch machines get high marks there. But I am afraid that they could be knocked around in transport since I will be moving the layout so often. I don't know about the reliability of the peco switch machines? As you can see there is where I am very confused. The peco switch machines are half the price of the tortoise? that's good but mama taught me you get what you pay for! So, what to do about switches?

Q.4 - I want to utilize magnetic uncouplers. Would the under track permanent magnets be better or the between the rail magnets?

Q.5 - roadbed: I have some cork roadbed, but was also thinking about using the AMI instant roadbed. What do you think? Reliability of operation and ease of installation is important to me.

Q3: Either machine should give you reliable results. The Toroise machines already have additional contacts whereas you have to add them to the Peco machines, which increases the costs if you need the extra contacts. Peco machines can attach directly to the turnout and won't stick out below the 2" foam. The Tortoise machines are deeper and will extend beyond the depth of the foam and might be vulnerable to bumping, although your 3" framing will provide a little extra protection. Also, it a Tortoise gets bumped, it could pu***he turnout off the roadbed and create alignment problems. Costs could be an issue if you need the additional contacts, reliablity should be about equal (replacing a Peco machine might be easier than replacing a Tortoise in your application), so the only real issue is damage during transport.

Q4: Set up a little test area and try both. Either installation can cause uncoupling because the magnetism is always present and you only need slack in the train to cause the couplers to move. I have seen installations where the under-track magnet was mounted to swing down when not in use, thereby avoiding the unintentional uncoupling, but you have to devise a way to raise and lower the magnet. Between track magnets are critical of alignment and care must be used when installing them. I like the electro-magnetic uncouplers, but they require more effort to install and must be wired to operate. Also, I don't think they are available anymore, but someone will correct me if I am mistaken.

Q5: For ease of installation, I don't think you can beat the self-adhesive foam roadbed. Very easy to install, a little harder to remove if you need to make changes. Foam roadbed usually needs to be 'burnished' to make the adhesive really stick, so it is easy to make corrections if you don't burnish it until you need to. Cork roadbed takes a little more effort to install but is very reliable and, depending on what you glue it down with, is not too hard to make corrections while installing and make changes later on. Either is reliable so the difference is in installation. The foam roadbed seems to be quieter than the cork, but on a foam-based layout, the cork works very well if the adhesive you use has some flex to it (latex caulk as an adhesive has flex to it, white or yellow glue does not). Also, foam and cork are different thicknesses, so if you mix them, be aware that you will have to create a transistion between the two. Sanding down the cork roadbed is an easy way to do this.

Keep the forum posted on your progress and remember that the only ignorant question is the one that hasn't been asked.

Darrell, quiet...for now

[skiloff]

Try toytrainheaven.com. They are cheaper than 4Nscale.com by a little bit. If you are buying a lot, it might be worth doing.

[palallin]

1. If your goal is to get the kids involved hands-on--"touch the trains"--I think you'd be better off sticking with G. N is not a kid-friendly scale. YMMV.

[WillSowka]

I'm a comparison shopper........4NScale is great and you can get them on the phone.....try 'ToyTrainHeaven', ' MB Klein' (Model Train Stuff),' BLW' (Brooklyn Locomotive Works) they,re all phone friendly and have excellent Web sites and service. They all advertise in either Model Railroader, Railroad Model Craftsman, N-Scale, N Scale Railroading magazines. (MBK has excellent Atlas # 2500 Flex Track price). For excellent transporting Rallroads have you looked into N-Trak Modules this is an excellent way of getting Kids involved by them building their own modules with adult supervision that can be joined together for a super layout. Hope I was helpful.......Bill S.

[BR60103]

The Peco turnouts should work fine with Atlas track. If you get stuck, even the Peco "code 55" will work.
Try to avoid magnets on the main line. Use the visible magnets on sidings if the kids are going to do any switching.

[ereimer]

QUOTE: Originally posted by pastornick

Q.3 - considering the 2" foam top and the fact that this layout will be transported monthly is it better to utilize Tortoise under table mount switches or Peco under track switches. I am thnking that if I used the peco under track switch by notching out a pocket in the foam top this would provide protection for the switch machine from being jarred loose during transport. But again reliability of operation is high priority and I know that the tortoise switch machines get high marks there. But I am afraid that they could be knocked around in transport since I will be moving the layout so often. I don't know about the reliability of the peco switch machines? As you can see there is where I am very confused. The peco switch machines are half the price of the tortoise? that's good but mama taught me you get what you pay for! So, what to do about switches?

i'm assuming you're going to make the legs removable so you can transport the layout easily . if so you're going to have a problem with the tortoises and 3" framing as the tortoises are 3.25" high and the connector cards will end up being what the layout sits on . 1"x4" for the frame sides would eliminate the problem

[chateauricher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ereimer
i'm assuming you're going to make the legs removable so you can transport the layout easily . if so you're going to have a problem with the tortoises and 3" framing as the tortoises are 3.25" high and the connector cards will end up being what the layout sits on . 1"x4" for the frame sides would eliminate the problem.

ereimer,

Pastornick said he would be using 2" foam on top of the 1x3 frame -- making the total thickness close to 5". That means the 3-1/4" tall Tortoises will fit easily with no protrusions, with more than 1-1/2" to spare.

[Tom Bryant_MR]

Pastornick, I have N scale on 4x6 on 1x3 framing w/ 1" foam... ~ 16 or so switches ... all manual. I will be moving it from our dining room to the garage in the next week. Will let you know how portable and stable that is.

Also, as Palallin mentioned above, N scale is not to kid friendly. I have 3 grandsons that are fascinated and while they love to watch them run round-and-round it is hard for their inexperienced little hands to do any actual touching without derailing everything and they cannot get stuff back on the track. So, the age of the kids is a big factor. Point is do they get frustrated and bored when things go wrong. This is supposed to be fun.

I am expecting you really want the kids to actually run the trains and that is fine and perfect. Maybe a thin plexiglass barrier above the facia will help avoid certain frustrations.

[skiloff]

I've got a six year old and he has no trouble putting things on the track when they derail, or putting them on for the first time. I've got Kato's little rerailer gizmo that sits on the track and you just put your engine or car in it and it slides perfectly on to the track. I think a few other companies make them, too.