Electrical GAP on Flex Track

[Bre2tSco2t]

The new layout track is down. The feeders are being attached and tying to the bus. The electrical was designed to be on 4 different power buses. How do I GAP the code 83 HO Flex Track? I know that an “AIR” will not do. So how big is the gap? Are the gaps in the two rails offsite slightly? (We are DCC BTW). What do you fill the GAPS with? How is this “Filler” attached, or glued, or how do you keep it from coming out?

Did a search and this type "GAP" I don’t believe this topic is be discussed.

Thank you in advance.[8D]

Bre2tSco2t
MGB – Where Life is nothing but FUN!

[rrinker]

If the gap is at a track joint, I just use insulated joiners. The Atlas ones are clear, not some silly bright orange like their old N scale ones used to be.
Otherwise - use a cutoff wheel in a Dremel, the width of the cutter is plenty of space. A small piece of styrene can be glued into the gap and, once the glue is dry, trim it down and file it to the rail profile.
Gaps should be nearly adjacent, a little bit either way won't matter, but don't gap one rail and then gap the other a foot down the line. I would try not to have any open gaps on curves, that's asking for kinked rail.

--Randy

[oleirish]

Rule of thumb,make gaps so engines and cars clear other engines and cars when turned off.[2c][:O][B)]Also when useing in track un-couplers place them where cars are clear of other cars[:D][8D]
JIM

[Bre2tSco2t]

Is there any material or epoxy that could be put in the GAP and the trimmed/filed/sanded to shape after it dries?

Bre2tSco2t
MGB - Where Life is nothing but FUN!

[rrinker]

Epoxy is fairly hard to file or sand. CA gives off some nasty fumes when sanded or filed - so a drop of CA plus the thin styrene is probably the best bet. Gap-filling CA may work, and epoxy would do the job, just harder to get any bumps sanded down.

--Randy

[bogp40]

QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker

If the gap is at a track joint, I just use insulated joiners. The Atlas ones are clear, not some silly bright orange like their old N scale ones used to be.
Otherwise - use a cutoff wheel in a Dremel, the width of the cutter is plenty of space. A small piece of styrene can be glued into the gap and, once the glue is dry, trim it down and file it to the rail profile.
Gaps should be nearly adjacent, a little bit either way won't matter, but don't gap one rail and then gap the other a foot down the line. I would try not to have any open gaps on curves, that's asking for kinked rail.

--Randy

I agree with Randy on the styrene. Just remember to leave some unsoldered railjoiners for movement.
Bob K.