Another Tortoise question re: mounting

[KKEIFE]

I like the idea of using 'velcro' to mount Toroise switch machines as illustrated in the latest issue of MR.

However I have to go through 1.75 inches of plywood and foam to get to the hole in the turnout with the wire.

The wire that comes with the Tortoise is too short for this.

The question I have is will a Tortoise still function properly and throw a turnout properly with a longer wire, specifically will I be able to use an almost 2 inch long wire with a Tortoise.

If so does anyone have any suggestions on the type of wire to use. I have heard people say they use piano wire. Is this what it sounds like? Do they come in various 'sizes' and where do you get it?

Any suggestions will be helpful. Thanks.

Ken

[Javern]

yes 'piano wire" I get it at the hobby store here, I take the wire in that came with the Tortoise and not only get a longer length but slightly thicker, couldn't say what the exact size is . However the switch works just fine. I go thru 3' foam and 1/8 luan thickness.

[rolleiman]

I would add to Javerns' answer (and second) get a wire that's about twice the thickness of the stock wire. Use a washer on the screw to hold it into the hole of the tortise.. If you are a nut like me and spike your own turnouts, extra strength can be added by running the piano wire through a length of brass tubing. If you are using something like Atlas which has hinged points, it isn't necassary.. I invite you to visit...

http://www.rolleiman.com/trains/index.html (very much a work in progress)..

Jeff

[TBat55]

Tortoise come with 0.023" wire (or at least that's what I measured). I use thicker 0.032" wire. It is possible to wiggle the thicker wire into the hole near the screw, but drilling the hole larger would be easier.

If your turnout is already installed:
Bend one end of the very long wire per Tortoise instructions, push it through the turnout with a clamp to hold the unbent end, THEN attach it to the machine underneath the layout. After mounting, trim off the extra length. I find it too hard to get a short wire through the throwbar from underneath.

[tsasala]

I've found it pretty difficult to cut 0.039 piano wire with normal wire cutters. A dremel tool will do the trick, but make sure you don't melt your turnout.

[steffd]

Hi Ken,

Since I'm using the Woodland Scenics foam risers on top of my ¾” Plywood sub-roadbed and due to the more rigidly sprung throwbars on the Peco turnouts, I am actually using the metal rods used to hold magazines in binders. These are just about 1 mm in diameter such as those used for the MR binders. This provides more strength and rigidity for longer travel between the switch machine and turnout (4” in my case), however it does require slightly increasing the diameter of the holes on the switch machine’s throwarm and fulcrum. This has proved to be very effective solution for me and so far I have had no issues.

Stephan

[Anonymous]

A good source of piano wire is from a piano repair store (duh!). I've talked with the local guy, who has a buddy that's a model railroader. I get about 10' of whatever I want for $1.00.

As for your situation, I've got the same thing. 1" foam on 3/4" plywood. I use 0.35" piano wire and it works great. My wire comes coiled up, so I have to straighten it out.

Another good idea for installing the tortoise is to use a VERY long wire and fish it up from the bottom when installing the switch. When you've got it in place you cut it off with a dremel. I've saved a lot of headaches when doing this.

To cut the wire free-hand I use a pair of vice grips - it has a bolt cutter and the base of the jaws. DON'T use wire cutters, as it'll nick them for sure.

Mark in Utah ....... Only 10 more switch machines to install..... :-)