Proto 2000 engines

[relation]

I have a GP30 engine Proto 2000 when running it will just short out I have traced the problem to the wheels but I'm not sure how to fix them from shorting across I have heard on this form that the wheels are a problem on the Proto engines is this what happens if the wheels are bad and needs to be replaced other than the shorting out when it is running it runs good.

[jwar]

I may be reading between the lines here a bit, are you sure its a short ....or intermittent running from dirty wheels. ,,John

[relation]

I have meters and it is a short if you take a continuity tester and go between the wheels it shows a short but it is intermetent not sure if there is a way to fix it or if the wheels need to be replaced

[cacole]

Contact LifeLike if the locomotive is still under warranty and they'll replace it.

LifeLike has recently been purchased by Walthers, and I have heard that their web site has been shut down and their Baltimore offices are closed, so you might have to try contacting them through Walthers.

[selector]

Take the cover off, if you are comfortable with that prodecure, and inspect the contact wires, motor wires, decoder, whatever your loco has for electrical continuity. Look for a wire that has loosened. It must be that. There is no other reason that I can think of for a real short to be happening other than wires to the track being crossed in that district.

[relation]

Yes I have taken it compleatly apart and everything looks in order I did find that when I took one of the wheels and put a continuity tester across from one to the other it would lite up the way these are made there are three pieces to the wheels each wheel is pressed into the gear in the middle if you press hard the two metal wheels can touch in the middle so I put tape over one and pressed it together and it ran great for a short time till the short came back so I checked the wheels again this time when you put the continuity tester on one and then the other you have to wiggle the wheel set but it shows the curent is getting through which I don't think should happen.

[rrinker]

Sounds like maybe you have cracked gears. Those gears that the wheel stub axles fit in have little shoulders inside that prevent the ends of the axles fro touching - if they get close enough to touch yo have two problems, a short AND the guage will be too narrow. If there is any 'thumping' while running then the gears are probably cracked.
Athearns work the same way. Since the wheels slide easily in the gears, I've heard in the past recommendations to use plastic-compatible Locktite to keep them from moving once you have the correct gauge (use an NMRA gauge to set it). However, I have looked high and low and every variation of Locktite I have found cautions against use with plastics. Perhaps this original story so any years ago meant a different product but used the Locktite name - like referrring to 'copying' as 'Xeroxing'. The idea is to find a product that will have enough of a bond to keep the wheels from being easily moved, yet not a permanent bond like CA so they can be disassembled for cleaning or if the gear needs to be replaced.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

Sounds like the insulation on one of the wheels is breaking down. If you can get a hold of a replacement axle and wheels it shoud cure the problem. Try sending an E-Mail to Walthers to see if they can supply the GP 30 replacementgeared axles and wheel set.
Will

[bogp40]

QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker

Sounds like maybe you have cracked gears. Those gears that the wheel stub axles fit in have little shoulders inside that prevent the ends of the axles fro touching - if they get close enough to touch yo have two problems, a short AND the guage will be too narrow. If there is any 'thumping' while running then the gears are probably cracked.
Athearns work the same way. Since the wheels slide easily in the gears, I've heard in the past recommendations to use plastic-compatible Locktite to keep them from moving once you have the correct gauge (use an NMRA gauge to set it). However, I have looked high and low and every variation of Locktite I have found cautions against use with plastics. Perhaps this original story so any years ago meant a different product but used the Locktite name - like referrring to 'copying' as 'Xeroxing'. The idea is to find a product that will have enough of a bond to keep the wheels from being easily moved, yet not a permanent bond like CA so they can be disassembled for cleaning or if the gear needs to be replaced.

--Randy

I had used Locktite (red tube) many years ago on all NWS replacement wheels for all my Athearns. I have never run into a problem with it's use or compatibility w/ plastic. Just remember to place the bronze axle bushings on first before dabbing the Locktite into the gear (toothpick). You need to center the gear and set the gauge in short order before it sets up. Hope this is of help to any that would like to use it.
Bob K.

[selector]

Hey, I am learning something! Thanks, Bob and Randy. Insulation on axles...hmmm.

[Leon Silverman]

Randy:
Loctite is a brand name of a whole series of anerobic (activated by abscence of air) adhesives that is available in different strengths and characteristics. There are different applications that lock anything from a threaded connection to a gear onto a shaft without a key slot.