Benchwork - Where do you start?

[sarailway]

Hi there Modellers!

I am planning my model railroad empire in the shed and am now giving some thought to the actual construction of the benchwork.

To give you some context, my layout is around the walls with a peninsular off one wall. Dimensions are about 22x20 feet. I am planning on using steel framing to form the bench work. I plan to have two layers. The lower layer, though will be staging and not intended for scenery. The lower layer will only be on the peninsular.

I have two questions. Firstly, what do people think should be the minimum height above track for the lower level.

Secondly and this is my main question, where do you start the actual construction? That is do you start at the lowest level and work the benchwork up or at the highest level and work down or at some arbitary datum somewhere else?

I guess the point of this is so that up/down grades work out properly.

I'll appreciate all of your comments!

Thanks

Dan

[randyaj]

Dan,
Good question and welcome to the wonderful, frustrating, exihlerating world of building a layout. I would start at the lowest point working around maintainint the bench work level as a benchmark so that grades will be accurate. Also it is very difficult to lay track from the top down, space issues and all, so building from bottom up and laying track as you go would be my opinion.[2c]
Randy Johnson

[Medina1128]

Where to start is about 6 to a half dozen of the other. I mean, it doesn't really matter which level you start on, except there are factors to consider. What will be the optimum height for you for BOTH levels. You don't want to start the lower level at eye level, THEN build the upper level. Since you've already stated that the lower will NOT have scenery, then I would plan to build the upper level (this works for me) about at mid-chest level. Another factor is how wide will the around the walls part be? You still have to be able to reach across the layout and if it's chest high and 3-4 feet wide, it's going to be a real booger bear to work on. I made my around the walls section 25 1/2 inches deep. I cut the 1x4s for my benchwork 24" long. And with the front and rear bracing (another inch and a half), that's what it comes out to. Another thing consider is, will the lower level be underneath the upper level, or just at a different elevation? If it's under the upper level, you're going to need room to reach things on the lower level, maintenance, etc. But, yes I would start on the lower level, simply for the reasons that randyaj mentioned. Randy Johnson???? The Big Unit is into model railroading?? Suh-weeeeeeeet!!

[SpaceMouse]

Build the hardest levels to get to first--even if you won't lay track on them for a while. For instance, under my main yard will be a helix down to a staging yard. If I don't build that before I put in the plywood/foam on the main yard, it will be very difficult, if not impossible to get the helix right.

Look for the difficult areas.

[selector]

I agree with Chip. Build whatever scares us the most first. Get it right and out of the way because all benchwork leads to it...just like Rome.

I would build my staging penisula at waist level (near the belt line) and go up about one whole foot for the base and main track height. That way, your reaches into the deeper areas won't be hazardous to either your trains or your budget, and you will still be able to sit on a stool and appreciate eye-level trains.

[claycts]

Chip, when building bench work ('L Girder) for example do you set the TOP of the girder a constanat height (48" for talking) then the 1x4 screwed to that giving a number of 51 1/2" THEN adjust the risers from there so that ALL track is ABOVE this point OR do you very the 51 1/2" number. assumption is that ALL track is HIGHER than 51 1/2" (or what ever base number you have for the low point).
I am making saw dust this weekend and was going to put ALL the base at the 51 1/2" then go UP to the 60" high point. Running the scenery DOWN to the 51 1/2" for rivers and such.

[dehusman]

Choose the height you want the main level, I like 45-55". Then position the staging level below it. 14 to 18" below will let it be a sceniced level. 8" will let you reach in over a standing cut of cars and pick up a car on a track further back. 4" is minimum clearance and will allow you to curse under your breath later on when something goes wrong and you can't reach it. Build the benchwork below the staging level and raise the other track above it.

A major error I see in beginner layouts is that they build on a flat plywood table top. Go out and look at railroad tracks, then look at the ground around it. Notice how much is BELOW the level of the tracks. If you use a flat plywood table top you will have a hard time modeling that.

Dave H.

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts

Chip, when building bench work ('L Girder) for example do you set the TOP of the girder a constanat height (48" for talking) then the 1x4 screwed to that giving a number of 51 1/2" THEN adjust the risers from there so that ALL track is ABOVE this point OR do you very the 51 1/2" number. assumption is that ALL track is HIGHER than 51 1/2" (or what ever base number you have for the low point).
I am making saw dust this weekend and was going to put ALL the base at the 51 1/2" then go UP to the 60" high point. Running the scenery DOWN to the 51 1/2" for rivers and such.

I'm not sure I undertand the question. I prefer open frame construction for the sole reason that I have built a zillion things with that type of construction. I use risers from the base to set my grades. The advantage I see from L-girders is that you can adjust the height usnig shimes or risers to compensate for irregularities in the wood. If you are using ripped plywood you can assume that your base is going to be straight and of a consistant height. Then you can place your L-girders on top of the base like you suggest. I hope I'm not missing the point.

[chateauricher]

Dan,

Knowing what scale you're modeling would be very helpful in determining the clearance you need between decks (or layers, as you call them). HO would require at least 4" (10cm). Whereas, N will need only about 2" (5cm).

Of course, you'll need to add a few inches in order to reach over rolling stock to retrieve a derailed one. Dehusman's calculations are a good start. I suggest you add at least 4" (10cm) to whatever the minimum clearance is required for your scale. In HO, that would be 4" + 4" = 8" (20¼cm). In N : 2" + 4" = 6" (15¼cm).

Once you have determined the deck-to-deck height, you can then start calculating your grade(s). Don't forget to include the thickness of your benchwork and supporting structure in calculating the deck-to-deck height.
(roadbed & rail height) + (clearance) + (reach-over) + (benchwork) = (deck-to-deck height)
Remember to keep your grades to about 2%.

QUOTE: Originally posted by dehusman
A major error I see in beginner layouts is that they build on a flat plywood table top. Go out and look at railroad tracks, then look at the ground around it. Notice how much is BELOW the level of the tracks. If you use a flat plywood table top you will have a hard time modeling that.

Such is the beauty of working with a layer of extruded foam as your tabletop. It is very easy to carve out ditches, gullies, etc. that exist below the level of the tracks.

[sarailway]

Hey thanks everyone.

There are some interesting thoughts in there. It seems that logical point for me is the peninsular part of the layout where there will be two levels and also the lowest point. So thanks to those that said start at the lowest and hardest parts. I'll do that!

And for Chateau.... yes I am modelling HO. I had guessed about 6inches but I see the logic in 8inches.

Thanks everyone that took the time to comment. If anyone else wants to comment, then I'm all ears!

[BR60103]

Dan: The L girder can be moved up and down as required -- one of the illustrations in the book shows it being dropped to accomodate a river valley.
The dimensions we give should be varied depending on yourself. If you're a big guy, you may need to expand the clarance enough to get your fist in. If you're short, the layout may have to be built lower, and the width reduced. And don't forget to measure your biggest friends for the aisle width.

[aartlib]

Best book on the subject of benchwork is................................................................?

Thanks[8D]

[johncolley]

Do some mock ups first to see what are good levels for you, but be reasonable if you are really tall or short consider your most likely audience. I am 5'7" and the best view of the upper level for me is a rail height of 62-63" That way your eyes are at about scale height and you are not looking at the underside of the cars, but at about what you would see if you were standing near a real track. Another hint for starting a layout. Once you have decided on your heights, snap some chalklines on the walls, and at least sketch your background ideas on the wall. Also now is the time to paint the sky and horizon details before getting too much benchwork in the way. Then do your staging tracks and test them, including turnouts, first so you can cover them with a dropcloth to work on anything above it. It would be difficult to add them later!

[Anonymous]

I always start at the Home Depot.

[Duce]

i wish i would have read this last week..lolol