What do you use for a base layer of grass?

[Anonymous]

I'm to the point where I am finishing up my tables for my new layout, I'm thinking of doing a small HO along with some O-27. Anyway, I built 5 tables out of plywood and I'm wondering what everyone uses on tables to make the grass and such (Foam, paper, paint?) I basically need to cover large areas with a base of sorts then I can go back and create roads and dirt.

What does everyone use nowadays? Are there any good how-to guides on basic decorating and rail layout building?

[egmurphy]

QUOTE: I basically need to cover large areas with a base of sorts then I can go back and create roads and dirt.

If you want a quick way of making the plywood disappear, I'd suggest getting a can of 'dirt' colored latex paint. Paint sections of thee xposed plywood and, while the paint is still wet, sprinkle a light covering of ground foam (Woodlan Scenics makes a good product, but there are others) on the wet paint.

If you want contours you'll have to go a bit further. Using extruded foam to form hills is gaining a lot of popularity these days.

The plaster method, like using a carboard strip web to shape the hills and draping paper towels soaked in plaster on top is always a viable method.

With either of these methods you can use the paint/ground foam on top. You can also use a thinned white glue to attach foam.

Kalmbach puts out a number of good books on scenery. They should be available at your LHS, or directly through this website.

And, of course, you can always use the search function to check out older threads which have discussed this, both on this forum and on the 'Model Railroader General Discussion' forum.

This topic could be discussed for days, there's no right way to do it.

Oh yeah, almost forgot, take a look at Joe Fugate's 'clinic on scenery' thread, it's really worthwhile. Here's the link to the thread:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?page=1&TOPIC_ID=32122


Regards

Ed

[ARTHILL]

I am using both WS plater cloth (Great basic shape, but high cost). I then paint and sprinkle a variety of ground cover. I also use sheets of extruded foam which I then paint and sprinkle ground cover. This makes for flat areas. You can sand gentel rolling hills in extruded foam, but the dust is impressive. I don't put plaster on the foam, but most do. I like the ability to stick things in it , ie. cornstalks and trees.

[hminky]

I have web articles dicussing building my 4x8 layout that might help at:

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/4x8/



Thank you if you visit
Harold

[TBat55]

If you don't want it to look flat, get some Sculptamold. It's more like paper pulp than plaster and easily changed later. Spread it around on the plywood with a putty knife. It takes dliuted paint VERY well (change the dilution to get different shades). Sprinkle on grass and ground foam while wet. Let dry then spray with dilute matte medium (flat). When you need to add roads or structures, "bulldoze" the ground and repeat above. Looks very realistic.

[orsonroy]

All of my layout bases are 2" foam, with the track laid on top. That way, I've got an easy way to add ditches, streams, and other "microterrain" to the base part of the layout, and not have the world look completely flat.

As for a base grass layer, I get the cheapest gallon of latex "dirt-like" paint I can find (check the rejects first; you usually find something that will work). I slap the latex paint onto anything that's pink (the foam), and while still wet, sprinkle on a layer of Woodland Scenics mixed fine turf. Once that's dry, I start adding more detailed foliage features (which usually include 1-2 more layers of flocking or static grass, plus bushes, tall grass, small trees, etc).

[ndbprr]

I would use latex paint on any substrate but use several different browns from tan to dark brown. I make it look like a large camoflage pattern then if it shows through there is variation and people don't think, "oh he painted the table brown under all this". Make the spots 1-2 feet across and it won't take long.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the feedback and links guys. I like the idea of laying down foam so I can sculpt out ditches and whatnot. Just out of curiosity is this foam you can get from a craft store, just plain foam? I guess I'll need some pretty big chunks of it.

The layer of dirt like paint makes a lot of sense and I checked out the Woodland Scenics website and will order some of that turf.

I also ordered a few books which should help.

[orsonroy]

The foam most of us talk about for layout constrction is pink or blue (sometimes blue-green) extruded polystyrene insulation foam, found in most "home improvement centers". It usually comes in 4'x8' sheets, ranging in thickness from 1/2" to 2". 2" is generally the de facto standard for layout construction. For simple tabletop or shelf-type layouts, all you need under it is 1/4" plywood and the legs. The stuff carves beautifully, and you really don't need any plaster on top to create land forms. Do a search in this part of the forum for foam, and you'll come up with all sorts of discussions on it's uses.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Orsonroy. I'm building the plywood tables so it sounds like that will work well. Are there special tools that work well carving it?

[Anonymous]

files, sand paper, paint thinner all good for carving foam.

[ham99]

I have always used dyed sawdust for grass until about two months ago, when I needed quite a bit for a new extension to my layout. I bought some WS ground foam Blended Turf, and it works and looks so much better that I am gradually covering up all of my old green sawdust. I have three shades of green WS turf, so I can vary the shades of grass for lawns, wild areas, and weeds. The builders foam is much better than craft foam, which has little strength. The 2" foam is $14 for a 4x8 sheet locally. You can shape it with lacquer thinner, but be careful. It eats away very fast. You can also get a hot knife for cutting it. I use Sculptamold on top for fine detailing of rocks and streams. It's much lighter than straight plaster, if weight is a factor.

[ARTHILL]

I have all the tools, but carving with a steak knife is still the easiest. The serrated edge saws off big pieces, the shape edge cuts, the point digs out stuff and makes nice rocks and stratta, and it's flexible. I keep trying all the others including my hot wire system, but the knife works best. You can sand it with a palm sander, but the sanding dust is the worst I have ever seen. Don't do it inside. Good luck and post some pics so we can all learn as you do.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Art. I have plenty of steak knives so I'll give that a try before I purchase any other tools. I'll keep everyone up to date as I make progress.

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by prizm76

Thanks Orsonroy. I'm building the plywood tables so it sounds like that will work well. Are there special tools that work well carving it?

No really special tools are required; anything sharp or serrated will do. My favorite tools are a snap blade utility knife, hacksaw blade, bread knife and Stanley Surefoam rasp. I also keep coarse sandpaper in a sanding block handy.

I have used a wire wheel chucked into a power drill to sculpt foam. It works great, but leaves a pink blizzard everywhere. It's a technique best suited for outdoors.

And I really wouldn't use solvent to "carve" foam. Yes, it does work (I've tried it), but you're releasing LOTS of poisonous chemicals into the air while you're doing it, enough to kill LOTS of brain cells (at least). If you've ever mixed bleach and ammonia together accidentally (basically making chlorene gas) you'll have an idea of how nasty the "foam melt" process is.

[Anonymous]

I use cheap brown paint, then sprinkle ground cover on it, usually a fine-texture, mottled green/brown type. From there I build up different textures and colors. Sprinkling a little dirt here and there helps it get that "non-manicured" look.

Also, oasis foam, the kind used by florists (found in the craft section at Wal Mart), is great for making small mounds and hills. It carves very easily.

[egmurphy]

One thing I think we missed recommending is that you need to keep your Shop Vac handy when you start either rasping, sandpapering, or {{{gasp}}} power wire brushing foam. It's carve a little, vacuum a little.


Your Shop Vac, don't carve foam without it!



Regards

Ed

[Anonymous]

Most people use flat latex paint and then while its wet sprinkle ground foam on it. That's just the basic method, and you could go more advanced by using the methods described above.