NEwbi looking for some info.

[Anonymous]

My kids (7&4) just received an HO train set from my brother in law. Everything on the set is 70's vintage and, from what I have been able to find out so far, not the highest quality. I already have been told by my local hobby shop that the track all needs to be replaced to eliminate the corrosion that has accumulated.
So what I am trying to find out is,
1. What is the best way to get a simple layout with a couple of turns down and going so that the boys have something to run for now.
2. What is the difference between the type of turnouts (i.e. Atlas custom-line and snap-switch turnouts).
I have decided to go with the code 100 track even though it is not as realistic. Unless there is a good reason that the code 83 is better then the code 100.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Dave

[pcarrell]

Code 100 would be more reliable, but as you point out, not as prototypical (although I don't think the kids will notice).

If you just want something for them to play with then the Bachmann EZ track might work. It's easy to put together and since the track is raised it will help to keep carpet fibers and lint out of the wheelsets of the rolling stock.

As far as the turnouuts go, I model N scale and I know in that scale the Atlas Custom Line turnouts seem to be built a little better and there are more options (sharper and broader curved parts, electric remote control or not, and so on). I believe the same is true in HO.

Someone else may have more info or some better options for starter track. Like I said, I'm not in that scale but things are very similar between N and HO in these respects.

Let me also say, Welcome!

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info. I had looked at the EZ Track and decided that it would not be the way to go since I am dedicating a 4x8 table in the garage to the train. I thought that is would be easier to upgrade the code 100 easier then the EZ Track.

Again thanks for the info on the switches and the track. Also for the welcome.

[pcarrell]

Oh, I'm sorry. I got the impression that this was for set up and tear down on the floor for the kids.

If your looking for something for a table top you could still use the EZ track (and some do with great success). You, i think, are wanting something a little different though.

Start with some reading. Really! Arm yourself with knowledge.

I'll post a link to the NMRA home page in a couple of minute that should answer a lot of your questions.

As far as the track questions go, Atlas is pretty good stuff and it's readily available for a good price. I'd go with the Custom Line turnouts and flex track everywhere else so that you can do whatever you need and not be tied in to the fixed radius of sectional track. You'll also have less joints with flex as the pieces are longer. The joints are the weak point of the track.

Before you tack or glue (whichever you choose to do) any track down, get a plan. You can do a search on "track plan" + "model railroad" and you'll have tons to pick from.

Then before you lay the track, lay something down for sub roadbed (alot of people use cork strips). Then lay the track. It will look better and won't be so noisy.

And come back often to ask your questions.

P.S. - You might try looking back through old threads here. Most any question that you'll have has probably been addressed.

[pcarrell]

Heres the link;

http://www.nmra.org/

Go to the beginners page and it'll help a bunch!

[tstage]

QUOTE: Originally posted by vze2kz7b
2. What is the difference between the type of turnouts (i.e. Atlas custom-line and snap-switch turnouts).

Thanks

Dave

vze2kz7b,

The Snap-switch turnouts already have a built-in switch that allows you to actuate the turnout - either manually or electrically. (These are two separate types.) Usually fairly reliable but not as realistic looking.

The Custom-line turnouts need either a manual throw or a separately installed switch (e.g. a Tortoise) to actuate the turnout. Much more reailistic than the Snap-switch turnouts but more involved to install.

Tom

[Anonymous]

Another consideration with the train set cars is their weight. Most are not heavy enough to stay on the rails in any sideways movement such as a curve or the curve of a turnout (switch). Find the recommended weights at the NMRA site and then weigh your cars. I bought a small postal scale for about $10 some years ago and it works great for weighing freight cars. If you don't take this step, your sons may become discouraged from the repeated derailments.

[tstage]

Dave,

FYI: The formula for figuring up the proper car weight that kleimeyer is referring to is the following:

For HO - 1 ounce + 1/2 ounce for every inch of body length

For example, a 6" long box car should weigh 1 ounce + (1/2 x 6 or 3 ounces) = 4 ounces.

You can find this formula on the last page of the August 2005 Model Railroad (MR) magazine. Hope that is of help...

Tom

[ARTHILL]

You might just fasten the stuff you have to a board, clean the track with fine sandpaper, and see if the kids like it. If they do they will help decide how to upgrade, If they don't, and some kids don't like trains, you will have saved money and hassel. If you get into it yourself, you will go a different direction than for the kids. This is a good forum to think your way through all that. You could get a circle running in a couple of hours.

[alstom]

The beginners page helps quite alot.[8]

[railroadyoshi]

tstage, you got one part of the custom line-snap difference

the other difference is that on real turnouts the rails of the diverging route straighten out after the the rails cross on the frog, which is depicted correctly on custom line turnouts

snap switches curve on the diverging route, acting as an 18 inch curve snap piece when you add the 1/3 18 inch radius piece that is provided.
This "curve", in essence, also has a diverging route that goes straight


what does that mean for you?
if you choose to use Atlas snap track, snap switches are a good way to go
if you choose to use flex track, then custom line is a good way to go

good luck

[railroadyoshi]

btw, ARTHILL has a VERY good suggestion
make sure that this is something they like to do, and they enjoy it, before you plunk down hard earned money on new stuff

[SpaceMouse]

Dave,

Another idea is to post your proposed layout here and let us look at it. We might be able to point out some potential problems.

Here's an easy to use layout program.
http://www.atlasrr.com/righttrack.htm.
)but wait a day or so to download it because it was just released and the servers are overloaded.

[tstage]

QUOTE: Originally posted by railroadyoshi

tstage, you got one part of the custom line-snap difference

the other difference is that on real turnouts the rails of the diverging route straighten out after the the rails cross on the frog, which is depicted correctly on custom line turnouts

snap switches curve on the diverging route, acting as an 18 inch curve snap piece when you add the 1/3 18 inch radius piece that is provided.
This "curve", in essence, also has a diverging route that goes straight.

Siddharth,

Thanks! You're absolutely right! I didn't even think about that part. [:)]

Tom

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by vze2kz7b
1. What is the best way to get a simple layout with a couple of turns down and going so that the boys have something to run for now.

The nice thing about sectional track is that you can put it down on a board and take it up later to reconfigure. The trick is to not nail it down really tight, just tight enough to keep the nail heads from catching on things while still keeping the track from shifting. When I was "experimenting" with layouts I even just used thumb tacks rather than nails because they were easier to get up.

QUOTE: 2. What is the difference between the type of turnouts (i.e. Atlas custom-line and snap-switch turnouts).

As the other people said, PLUS, snap switches diverge at 20 degrees while a custom line #4 turnout diverges at 12.5 degrees.

QUOTE: I have decided to go with the code 100 track even though it is not as realistic. Unless there is a good reason that the code 83 is better then the code 100.

That is a good decision. I've had trouble mixing code 83 and children. Code 83 It is not as sturdy so when a child crawls across it or steps on it there is a much greater chance of breaking. Code 100 is much sturdier.