Sticking Together!

[jacon12]

Today I picked up the Walther's Merchant Row 1 kit and I'd like to know from you pros what is the best sticker-together product.
I have a little bottle of Testors

which works ok but is very hard to keep from glueing itself closed permanently.
I also have a bottle of Pro Weld..

which sets in about 10 seconds flat. Thats a little fast for me, especially when glueing things like windows on the backside of walls.
I also have this...

which works well but is harder to control its placement.
So, what do you recommend for kits like the one I've described?
Jarrell

[Jetrock]

I'd go for the Ambroid--normally to slow down the process of MEK based cements I'll apply a couple of coats, which takes a bit longer to evaporate, and then be ready to glue quickly!

[2021]

Use the Pro Weld. When I do windows, I place the frames in the opening and the dab the liquid to the edges. Capillary action takes over and you have a solid connection - less than a second to do. Same with glass but be careful not to get any on the clear plastic as this will cause "fogging". Try it and see how it works.
Ron K.

[claycts]

QUOTE: Originally posted by 2021

Use the Pro Weld. When I do windows, I place the frames in the opening and the dab the liquid to the edges. Capillary action takes over and you have a solid connection - less than a second to do. Same with glass but be careful not to get any on the clear plastic as this will cause "fogging". Try it and see how it works.
Ron K.

Follow -up is there a RETARDER for these glues that SLOWS down the reaction time? The drying time is based on the carrier evaorating leaving the adhesive behind. If you can RETARD the carrier you will have more work time.
Just a thought if it exists.
Take Care
George P.

[jacon12]

Thank you for your suggestions. I like the Pro Weld, I just wasn't sure how to get it in place to do windows before it set up. For places that have 'seams', such as the ends of buildings where they join, I know it works good.
Jarrell

[ereimer]

QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts
If you can RETARD the carrier you will have more work time.

George P.

jarrell , i think he's calling you names !


[:D]

[pcarrell]

Jarrell,

I used to do a lot of car models and I found that the clear 5 minute epoxy (Devcon?) worked well for big seams that you need just a couple of minutes to work with. The beauty is that after you get it in place and wait a minute or two it will be hard enough to let go of and move on.

It is a little messy as you have to mix it. It is a two part epoxy. Those little flat toothpicks are your friend in the application process.

Now all that may not sound like it is worth the trouble to use this stuff, but I saved the best for last.

Since this stuff drys crystal clear and the chemicals used in it do not cause fogging on plastic as it cures it's perfect for doing windows!

Oh yeah, one word of warning. This stuff drys to hold 5000lbs! Make sure that is where you want your part! [:O]

[Anonymous]

Proweld or the testors. Try to glue joints from behind with the parts already placed in position. I use Ron's method on these type of kits. Goes very fast.

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ereimer

QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts
If you can RETARD the carrier you will have more work time.

George P.

jarrell , i think he's calling you names !


[:D]

[:O] *gasp!*

[jacon12]

Thanks for the suggestions! The reason I was having a little difficulty with windows on this particular kit is these are the type windows that are way oversized for the window frame and you dab some adhesive on the inside of the frame and place the large plastic window over the entire flat area of the window. With the ProWeld ya gotta be FAST![wow]
Jarrell

[orsonroy]

I use different liquid plastic cements for different applications:

Ambroid ProWeld for most day-to-day gluing needs.

Testors for interior bonds where I really need a lot of melt/weld action.

Tenax 7R for delicate parts like windows, where i don't want a lot of melt or glue seepage.

All of the above glues are MEK based. I recently picked up a quart of pure MEK (at a whopping $4!) to try out, but haven't done anything with it yet. If you do a lot of plastic construction (as I do) looking at plain old MEK might be an inexpensive and handy alternative.

[oleirish]

MEK is good stuff,we used to use it to clean helocopter parts,The pure stuff it is oil free.
but make sure you work in a vented room or out side,the fumes will get you.[^][8D]
JIM