primer on cast metal

[ARTHILL]

I am going to try some of those cast metal models. I like to paint with acrylic artist colors. What are the primers that have worked well for you?

[SpaceMouse]

I used a flat black spray primer. It worked quite nicely for me. It has the added benefit of adding to shadow if you have intricate features.

[scole100]

I have used several different types of primers, and did not notice any real difference between them. One thing I would mention is that you would be well advised to wa***he castings in warm soapy water before putting on any type of primer. Some of those castings have a slippery mold release on them that will keep most paints from covering well.

[MisterBeasley]

You guys have GOT to be psychic. I'm picking up my Bowser PCC car today. It's unpainted metal, and I've been thinking about primers for the last week. How did you know???!!!?

[orsonroy]

If you're handpainting white metal pieces with a acrylic paint, you don't need ANY primer. I've painted well over 20,000 15mm and 20mm wargaming figures in my lifetime, and I think I've primered about 500. If you DO decide to use a primer, you'll be OK with any of the Floquil spray primers, or even Krylon primers. Just remember that the primer color will have an effect on the paint you apply over it. Whites, reds, yellows and light blues, especially, have the annoying habit of changing color based on what the primer coat is. Use white or grey if you want bright colors, black if you want dark, and iron oxide if you want sepiaed tones.

If you're painting with oils, you'll need a primer that's compatible with the paint you're using. I can't help you there, but most paint manufacturers make some sort of barrier specifically designed to work with their paints.

If you're painting a white metal train using "conventional" paints (Floquil, Polly Scale, etc), just use one of the Floquil rattlecan primers, which come in black, white, grey and oxide. I generally use grey for items with colors on them, and no primer for black items (because I use Krylon satin black for all my Bowser and Mantua steam, which won't need a primer!)

Whatever method you decide to use, make sure to wa***he casting, handle it as little as possible, and to get a protective lacquer coat onto the finished product as fast as possible (10 minutes after the paint's dry is OK. 5 is better)

[ukguy]

Good point Chip, I've also read that if you prime with black and then drybrush on the colours it gives more depth to the item/figure.
Here's the relevant link :-

http://www.brifayle.ca/2c.paintintro.html



Have fun & be safe
Karl.

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ukguy

Good point Chip, I've also read that if you prime with black and then drybrush on the colours it gives more depth to the item/figure.
Karl.

Not in my experience. I've competed against other wargamers in miniature painting competitions, and most black undercoat/colored drybrushing figures come out WAY too dark, with WAY too little paint actually applied. Controlling your colors and fading/shadowing by using dark base colors, lightened highlights, and a final india ink wash for the crevasses is a much better way to add depth to miniatures.

Unfortunately, the above technique really doesn't work on your run of the mill HO or N scale fig. Military miniatures are sculpted to a MUCH higher degree than any model RR figs out there, Preiser included. There's lots of folds, creases and details on your average 15mm ACW figure which take to the technique quite nicely. Try it on your average unpainted Preiser fig, and the end result isn't so hot. You've really got to practice the technique (and practice restraint!) to get it to work. Thankfully, it's easy to paint over an HO figure. Easier still to just shove him in the background!